BAC problems
#1
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BAC problems
Hi..
I've done a forum search but can't find what I'm looking for.
The problem I have is when I turn on the heater (at idle) in my '86, the tach drops to 400rpm and the engine wants to die. While in gear and rolling along it's ok.
A knowledgeable chap has told me that the problem is my BAC. From other posts I've seen, I may be able to clean the contacts (?) and I've can see what may be an adjustment screw on the valve.
Any ideas of what I can try this weekend? It's starting to get quite chilly 'round these parts. Would this also explain why when my heater is on it's very weak?
--Mike
I've done a forum search but can't find what I'm looking for.
The problem I have is when I turn on the heater (at idle) in my '86, the tach drops to 400rpm and the engine wants to die. While in gear and rolling along it's ok.
A knowledgeable chap has told me that the problem is my BAC. From other posts I've seen, I may be able to clean the contacts (?) and I've can see what may be an adjustment screw on the valve.
Any ideas of what I can try this weekend? It's starting to get quite chilly 'round these parts. Would this also explain why when my heater is on it's very weak?
--Mike
#2
yea that adjust screw is the idle control adj. you might be able to raise your idle a bit to prevent it from dying.
make sure you have someone looking at the tach while adjusting you dont want to go overboard and have no one to turn off the car.
make sure you have someone looking at the tach while adjusting you dont want to go overboard and have no one to turn off the car.
#3
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Your profile says you have a 86GXL. Not a turbo. But give this site a try http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html The part about the bac is relevant except your bac has no adjustment on it if its a 86N/a. Sounds like your bac is'nt working. The free factory manual in section 4A also has a checkout of the BAC. That free download is at http://www.iluvmyrx7.com John Gibson who writes on this site also has a free download of the FSM. One thing the manual does is have the car at idle and pull the plug off the BAC. The rpm should drop a hundred or so rpm. If it does not , momentarily jumper 12v to one pin on the bac and a ground to the other. The thing should click. Like I mentioned, the site at
http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html gives the bac a good going over for a functional check. I think the coil is supposed to be approx 12ohm, but thats dealt with at http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html
http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html gives the bac a good going over for a functional check. I think the coil is supposed to be approx 12ohm, but thats dealt with at http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html
Last edited by HAILERS; 10-05-01 at 04:38 PM.
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Thanks fopr the suggestions guys, Hailers you are great with the info.
I'll check out these sites when I'm at home and give it a test tomorrow. I could swear it does have an adjustment screw but maybe I'm imagining it after look at BAC valves on the net all morning.
Have a good weekend guys, thanks for the ideas..
--Mike
I'll check out these sites when I'm at home and give it a test tomorrow. I could swear it does have an adjustment screw but maybe I'm imagining it after look at BAC valves on the net all morning.
Have a good weekend guys, thanks for the ideas..
--Mike
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If when you get home and look at the bac and if it has a screw, will you please note the number on the side of the plackard and see if it reads N332 or N326, please? Yours, from what I thought I knew, should have a N326 with a boss with a hole but no screw inside it. The Turbos have a N332 with a very obvious adjust scres in the hole. I've got both on the table in front of me and they would both fit. The only diff is the air inlet pipe is turned away from the direction of the wiring plug on the N326 and on the turbo N332 to air inlet pipe is faced towards the electrical plug. I think I'll put the N332 on 87n/a and see how it adjusts.
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