BAC Neccessary?
so im de emissions-ing a spare harness i have laying around for the build im going to do. is the bac absolutely neccessary to have the car run right?
FYI build is a street port on stock internals and header baack exhaust. stock intake mani(maybe port matched)
FYI build is a street port on stock internals and header baack exhaust. stock intake mani(maybe port matched)
It helps stabilize the idle when you put electrical loads or a/c loads on the engine. You don't need it, but then you will want to set your idle a bit high to compensate for it.
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if you read through those two pages I posted carefully, the BAC was designed so that the coolant hoses would use water to set the temperature of the magnet/coil inside the valve. Then the ECU would adjust the BAC valve duty slightly based on water temp, because the temperature of the coil affects its operation some. But honestly I don't think it makes a noticeable difference. Over engineering is correct.
Last edited by arghx; Jul 23, 2009 at 07:32 PM. Reason: over engineering
Yeah, it says that right at the end. I'd seen those pages in the training manual before, and opted to ditch my coolant lines awhile back. Also, the engine bay heat will bring the BAC up to temp even without the lines, but it won't stay as constant as it would with water running through. The difference is not even noticeable.
You don't need it. It can be helpful in a somewhat stock configuration but you don't absolutely have to keep it. If you have a/c and p/s it's probably best to keep it with a stock ECU. I took an FD TB. FD UIM and S5 LIM and am running it all with a Rtek2.1, deleted the secondary throttle plates and BAC, all emissions and extras removed. I did notice that the new setup flows substantially more air at idle, but it was easy to correct fuel/timing for new manifolds. I don't think BAC maters much if you compensate with higher idle, the BAC just helps you not stall at low speeds.
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PinkRacer
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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