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Aww... someone help me pull a broken bolt out of a bolt hole

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Old Oct 24, 2002 | 07:11 PM
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Aww... someone help me pull a broken bolt out of a bolt hole

The bolt snapped while putting my thermostat in. A stud puller for 10mm actually wore down the end of the stud, so it's not responding to the stud puller anymore. Anyone got any ideas? It's soaking in WD-40 right now.
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Old Oct 24, 2002 | 07:13 PM
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BTW: this is *really* important. There are only two bolts holding the thermostat chamber closed, and one of them's broken. Coolant can't stay in if this thing isn't sealed
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Old Oct 24, 2002 | 07:17 PM
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Drill directly down the center of the bolt and use a bolt extrator, AKA an EZ-out.
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Old Oct 24, 2002 | 07:36 PM
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Got any brands I could search for?
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Old Oct 24, 2002 | 07:45 PM
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I would assume most hardware stores would carry them, possibly car parts stores also. Just be careful to start and drill down the center of the bolt as stated above. There shouldn't be much resistance removing the bolt, unless it's crossthreaded. If you do "nick" the threads up you can always use a tap.
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Old Oct 24, 2002 | 07:46 PM
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Originally posted by JumpyRoo
Got any brands I could search for?
EZ-OUT is a brand.
Sears would have screw extractors, I'm sure.
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Old Oct 24, 2002 | 08:04 PM
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What's a tap?
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Old Oct 24, 2002 | 08:10 PM
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I snagged some EZ-OUT extractors on eBay--don't know if they're big enough, but I think 3/4 is bigger than 10mm. They're already on the way to my house.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=1870112262
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Old Oct 24, 2002 | 08:18 PM
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Originally posted by JumpyRoo
What's a tap?
I tap is a bolt with sections missing on the sides. it is used for sutting new threads in holes.

It's counterpart is a die, which is used for cutting new threads onto cylindrical objects.

They typical go together in a tap and die set.
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Old Oct 24, 2002 | 08:19 PM
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10mm is less than 1/2", you CAN get ez-outs at sears (I have a set) and sometimes you can get a broken bolt out with just a pair of needle nose pliers. If you drill it out, go shallow and straight, so you don't punch through the block or side of the bolt. A tap is a metal rod with metal cutting teeth designed to make threads, it will also clean up buggered threads. If none of this works, try drilling it out one sive larger and installing a heli-coil, which is made pretty much just for this situation.

edit: just looked at your ebay purchase, looks like those should do the trick. Good luck!
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Old Oct 24, 2002 | 08:37 PM
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Hm, but I want to get these other things... the tap and die set... and a heli-coil? What's a heli-coil?
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Old Oct 24, 2002 | 08:51 PM
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http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.html
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Old Oct 24, 2002 | 08:57 PM
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Wow! That's genius! I like it a lot!
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Old Oct 24, 2002 | 08:59 PM
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jeezzzzz

now why does that sound familiar?????

Because it just happened to me....if your bolt is rusted tight like mine, boy, you will have a rough time...I broke a B&D left hand drill and the Sears bolt remover is junk...

so...see my next post for the solution...
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Old Oct 24, 2002 | 09:02 PM
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so....tahdahhhh...

mazdaformance.com....it's only $155 with everything you see here (waterpump too!) Might as well do it right..

And that's this weekend project...
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Old Oct 24, 2002 | 09:04 PM
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Re: jeezzzzz

Originally posted by duehuynh
now why does that sound familiar?????

Because it just happened to me....if your bolt is rusted tight like mine, boy, you will have a rough time...I broke a B&D left hand drill and the Sears bolt remover is junk...

so...see my next post for the solution...
He broke his by over-tightening it. Yours broke due to corrosion.

You should have heated the surrounding aluminum with a torch, then popped a set of vice-grips on it.
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Old Oct 24, 2002 | 09:07 PM
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Holy crap, what a waste of $155! A propane torch and vicegrips would have run you $20, and even if that was impossible, you could have bought a drill bit and a tap for $5!

Cripes! When you break a bolt for your intake manifold, are you going to buy a new engine?
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Old Oct 24, 2002 | 09:23 PM
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nah...what you don't realize is that

1) i need a new waterpump
2) new thermostat
3) the old filler neck cracked, so need a new one
4) and the entire hsg is generally corroded pretty badly...

so....

150 let me do everything right in one shot...

to each his own...
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Old Oct 25, 2002 | 12:15 AM
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Wow. You even got the same exact bolt broken as me. Doesn't that wiring harness on the left hand side, that's supposed to wrap around that bolt, relaly **** you off when you're trying to work a ratchet?

Oh, and mine broke because of rust, too. It was rusted through.
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Old Oct 25, 2002 | 12:18 AM
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Tomorrow, cuz the set won't arrive for a few days, I'm going to attempt using a hand drill without a bit to snag the sucker where the bit would go in the drill, and reverse it. That worked on a Datsun last year, we'll see how well the WD-40's soaked in tonight.
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Old Oct 25, 2002 | 12:37 AM
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did you try a stud remover it is a circle with a hole and the middle spins or is it that the thing you used but you called it a stud puller
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Old Oct 25, 2002 | 12:39 AM
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Yeah, I do have a stud remover set. It was the first thing I tried. Thing is that the stud puller wore down the head of the stud so that it couldn't grip it anymore
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Old Oct 25, 2002 | 02:07 PM
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Find a machine shop store and ask for a left-hand/reverse bit in the approximate size.


-Ted
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Old Oct 25, 2002 | 03:29 PM
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get something better then wd 40
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Old Oct 25, 2002 | 03:57 PM
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Wow my bro had the same problem. (Corroded bolt and bad thermostat) He went to change the thermo and snap. He couldnt get the threaded portion out so off to the yard to get a replacement water pump housing. One Sat later all is good. Its good practice
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