Okay I did search, I found the throttle body mod on FC3Spro and I want to remove the advanced warming system that holds the idle at 3,000 rpms for 17 seconds when the engine is cold. I want to remove this on my 88 turbo II and my friends 90 n/a but how can I disable it but still keep the BAC valve so when he turns on the a/c his idle won't be rough. When searching I found that the BAC valve in combination with something else is what kicks the idle up, my friends car has a full exhaust and is very loud, he says he doesn't want to wake up his neighbors and stuff, and to decrease ware on the engine, and putting it in gear doesn't always make it not rev up. We still want the 1,500 rpms cold idle which is accomplished by the thermowax right?
thanks,
zach

 

i could be wrong , but i think that feature (as mazda calls it) is programed into the ecu. to my knowledge the only way to rid the car of this is to have the r-tek chip installed (only on s4 turbo models) or get a standalone .. someone correct me if im wrong

 

well, i know it is programmed into the ecu but they're has to be something (like a solenoid or valve or something) that activates this program. besides when i searched i found a lot of full emmissions removals which included the aws system. thanks for posting,
Nurse I need 1300cc's NOW
lol,
zach

 

On the S4, it can be disabled by disconnecting at least one bullet connector off of the temp switch down at the lower left corner of the radiator.

The BAC controls 90% (or more) of the air allowed for the AWS...

 

i just simply removed it, unpluged the electrical connector, and put vac. caps on the lines. It is completely of the car. I have not had any issues with a rough idle or erratic. It idles just over 1000 then drops down to 800-ish. But then again i am completely stock. And i removed the PS and A/C.

just to let you knoe what i have done about it.

 

I just yanked it and used vacuum caps, along with pulling the connector on the water thermo switch and a TB mod the car fires right up and sits at 750RPM.

S4 NA.

 

Just in case you don't know, and this might help some of those *Flooders* out there, the AWS solenoid and the BAC, when you starting the engine, go wide open to *feed a large amount of air* during starting.

ON a series four car there is no AWS, it's called the Air Bypass Valve. See the series five fsm for Control System, Output Devices, F1-77.

 

ok I think i'll just remove the whole thing, anyone got a pic of one? my car is turbo and I don't feel like taking of my intercooler just to see it. I wanna do this to my friends 90 n/a but I want to know exactly what needs to be removed. BTW I disconnected the bullet closest to the passenger side on the lower driver's side radiator on my 88 turbo II but it still revved to 3,000 rpms on cold start (although it was only for like 2 seconds this time).
oh yeah, lowes didn't have a 3/8" inch one way check valve, neither did ace hardware, nor petland, so ima check out home depot tomorow (stock blow off valve disconnected while installing my intake).

 

I have no fast idle thermo-wax since I removed it to remove the coolant circuit that warms it.

I'm considering putting my AWS back on, and work it with a dash button on cold days.
(Just to save pedaling it the first minute.)