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auxilary port actuator question about it's movement

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Old 05-06-11, 02:59 PM
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to remove the LIM do you undue the screw and bolt?
the piece which is highlighted in the picture above with the green arrows was half way open, i had to try very hard to to close it with needle nose pliers but i was able to
Old 05-06-11, 04:02 PM
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LIM = lower intake manifold. That piece with the screw and bolt just holds the seal in place on the arm inside the LIM, which rotates the sleeve in the port. You have to remove the manifold to get at the sleeve.

If you're not careful, you can break the piece the actuator rotates right off. I would not try to force it with pliers.


Attached Thumbnails auxilary port actuator question about it's movement-auxport.jpg  
Old 05-06-11, 04:44 PM
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how much do you think it would cost for a shop to do this? i think with help from my dad, who has never owned an rx7 but has worked on cars for a long, we would be capable of doing the job but wondering as well?
to remove the LIM does the upper intake manifold needs to come off too?
Old 05-06-11, 05:41 PM
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You say you did move it some. So try this. Move it one way just a touch........then back the way you came from. Do this back and forth movement. The more you do it the looser the movement will be. Then when it feels it's moving easier in that small range of movement............move it just a touch further in one direction and then back to where its now looser and do that back and forth movement a whole lot of times.

If you can do this back and forth movement and it gets a bit looser ..........noticably looser....then keep at it ....back and forth back and forth til it frees up thru the full range of movement.

Don't force it. Just back and forth til you notice it loosening up.

Does this make sense to you.........or not? I'll try again if needed. I think you might try this method before having to remove the intake manifolds. It will take time but I'd guess in an hour of two it will free up. Just don't use excessive force.

I suggested this because from what I understand it that you DID move it some in the past tries. I think this is doable without removing a manifold etc.
Old 05-06-11, 06:43 PM
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yea i did move it a little. i was checking if both the actuators worked a couple days ago with an air compressor. as shown in a video i made "how to check if it works" the actuator for rotor #2 works fine but when i did the same thing with the other actuator it moved about half way up and got stuck and i needed to pliers to move it which i did last night into the closed position, it's a real bitch to move right now
Old 05-06-11, 07:09 PM
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Just back and forth only a tenth of a inch. Back and forth............back and forth til it loosens up.

NOT hard as you can one way and hard as you can the other way.

No. Just move it a tenth of a inch or less one way then back where you started and keep repeating this and sooner than later the range of movement will increase as the carbon gets ummmmm crushed into powder.

If memor serves this shaft your moving has a rubber coupler in it that might break if too much force is use. Its been a long time since I messed with one so I might be wrong about the rubber coupler part.
Old 05-06-11, 11:31 PM
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well i broke that piece :/
it's the piece which i highlighted with the green arrows on a previous picture. I'm assuming that piece is not by itself and is the same piece which opens the auxiliary port for the #1 port.
i'm pretty disappointed but i guess that's how you learn, once i get the exhaust i'm waiting for ill be driving around with a "5-port" rx7 for a while. and with an NA you obviously want everything you can get which isn't that much hahaha. i think i need an "auxiliary port shaft," im not really sure though :/
Old 05-07-11, 06:24 AM
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.
Attached Thumbnails auxilary port actuator question about it's movement-sleeveseven.jpg  
Old 05-07-11, 03:28 PM
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well that it! how much do those go for? and tried looking on mazdatrix but couldn't find it, maybe i was searching under the wrong name
Old 05-08-11, 05:29 AM
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You won't find it on Mazdatrix, I'm fairly sure of that. If you call them on the phone they might be able to get you one 'cause they're a dealer.

Or go to the Wanted or For Sale section of this forum and say you want to buy one and post a picture or two. Mine is a series four and I doubt it'll fit the series five.

I'd recommend at this time to remove the lower intake when you get a new rod 'cause they mate with the sleeve/cylinder in a special way.
Old 05-08-11, 05:51 AM
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okay. i'm debating whether or not to have a shop perform the work for me, i'm not sure yet. if so i hope it doesn't cost more than 400$ if i can provide the part and gaskets which might as well be switched out. the shop only works on mazdas and isn't too far from where i live. I'm sure they would know how to clean the auxiliary port and make it like brand new and after that i would be sure to drive my car at around 5500 rpm for at least a minute several times a week to include movement of the vdi as well, but i've tested that with the air compressor and it fully opens with very little psi.
Old 05-08-11, 09:57 AM
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You might try to buy a complete lower intake manifold for a series five on this site. I'd think it would be easier to get that than try to buy just a piece of one. I wouildn't pay more than 20 to 30 bucks for a lower intake manifold myself. IF you try to buy that shaft from Mazda/dealer I'd wager it cost 75 bucks plus for no good reason at all..
Old 05-09-13, 06:35 PM
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I would not trust a shop to do that job unless you have proof they are experienced with rotaries. The job really isnt hard to do. Start by removing the intake system, then the throttle body, then upper intake then lower intake. Just be aware of everything that is connected to each piece you remove.
Old 05-09-13, 08:21 PM
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That repair has probably been done twice by now.
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