Aux Ports / ACV Waste Line
#1
RIP Icemark
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I searched and didn't find anything.
I am wondering about using the ACV waste line to actuate(sp) my aux ports. Does the ACV really dump a bunch of air through that line at 3800 RPM?
I am kinda pissed that I went and bought a plastic tee, and it is too big to fit inbetween the Air pump and the ACV, so I am trying to find different places to use it.
I am wondering about using the ACV waste line to actuate(sp) my aux ports. Does the ACV really dump a bunch of air through that line at 3800 RPM?
I am kinda pissed that I went and bought a plastic tee, and it is too big to fit inbetween the Air pump and the ACV, so I am trying to find different places to use it.
#4
Rotary Freak
Join Date: Aug 2001
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Originally posted by nashman69g
well the only problem with that is the aux ports use negative pressure to activate!
well the only problem with that is the aux ports use negative pressure to activate!
An even bigger problem is people giving false advice.
The aux ports require pressure to activate. Positive pressure...
And for the record, there's no such thing as "negative pressure". It's vacuum.
#6
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
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Yes it does dump at 3800 rpm. Just rev the engine and you'll feel it dump if you have your hand over the exaust port.
There is a serious flaw in this though. The problem is, that there are other factors that are thrown into the mixture when you are driving, and sometimes it will relieve prior to 3800. So it won't work consistently at 3800 rpm.
I did use a rpm switch from SummitRacing along with a spare solenoid for the switching. I tied the *vacuum/pressure* hose to a tee that I inserted in the large hose b/t the airpump and acv. Just a barbed plastic union that can be bought at PePBoys for thirty cents. That worked just peachy keen fine.199 percent reliable and you can set the trip for the solenoid just about anywhre you want. The key to this is.....if you use a spare solenoid off a RX, you need to realize that there are two different types. The grey switching solenoid passes air from port to port when de-energized and the blue relief solenoid passes air b/t port to port only when energized. I may have that backwards. I don't have time to look right now.
Oh, and there are about ten other ways to make this work. I just wanted to let you know there is a flaw in using the 3800 rpm trigger the relief solenoid see....MOST of the time, but not ALL of the time.
There is a serious flaw in this though. The problem is, that there are other factors that are thrown into the mixture when you are driving, and sometimes it will relieve prior to 3800. So it won't work consistently at 3800 rpm.
I did use a rpm switch from SummitRacing along with a spare solenoid for the switching. I tied the *vacuum/pressure* hose to a tee that I inserted in the large hose b/t the airpump and acv. Just a barbed plastic union that can be bought at PePBoys for thirty cents. That worked just peachy keen fine.199 percent reliable and you can set the trip for the solenoid just about anywhre you want. The key to this is.....if you use a spare solenoid off a RX, you need to realize that there are two different types. The grey switching solenoid passes air from port to port when de-energized and the blue relief solenoid passes air b/t port to port only when energized. I may have that backwards. I don't have time to look right now.
Oh, and there are about ten other ways to make this work. I just wanted to let you know there is a flaw in using the 3800 rpm trigger the relief solenoid see....MOST of the time, but not ALL of the time.
#7
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Originally posted by HAILERS
I did use a rpm switch from SummitRacing along with a spare solenoid for the switching. I tied the *vacuum/pressure* hose to a tee that I inserted in the large hose b/t the airpump and acv.
I did use a rpm switch from SummitRacing along with a spare solenoid for the switching. I tied the *vacuum/pressure* hose to a tee that I inserted in the large hose b/t the airpump and acv.