3MovinParts

B4 any1 flames me for not searching/etc.. I have searched and read ALOT.

Question is dealin with the aux ports on S4. When I look at the manifold from the passenger side, there are two of those actuator things. Does 1 control the valve for the back one and the other for the front one? I have the Haynes manual and from what I gather, only the front one (right side if lookin from pass. side of car) works the aux ports, but that thing doesnt go into to much detail on that subject. I checked them last nite, and the one on the left side goes in and out by hand easily, the right one ,however, is a B*TCH. I put the force of God onto that thing and only managed to brake the skin on my fingers. Also, would removing/lubing it fix that problem? I noticed that it doesnt seem like it has the power it should at high revs.

I posted this in another thread, but figured it would get better response in a thread of its own.

Tofuball

Yes, that is the case


If one does not turn, I reccomend just unscrewing the actuator itself, and seeing if the actuator is stuck or if the rod is stuck.

If the actuator is stuck, you can usually unstick it with some WD-40 and keep it unstuck with lithium grease or anti-siese (How do you spell siese?)

I just stuck mine in a vice after soaking it in WD-40, then pulled the rod in and out with a vice grip untill it moved NICE AND SMOOTH

If it is the rod, the job is a bit more . . . involved.

Usually it is the actuator though!!

EDIT:

If it is not the actuator, you have to remove your LIM (Lower Intake Manifold) And this is a job that may take about two or three hours for the inexperienced. You might want to label your vac lines, and I used the same anti-sieze mixture on my sleaves . . .

Now that I've done that, the whole assembly moves with a pinkys force.

SureShot

You want to avoid pulling the LIM if possible. The gasket clean off can be a 2 hour PITA.
The internal sleeves rarely stick.
Usually if the rod won't turn, it's gummed up right where it goes into the LIM.
PB Blaster & some wiggling usually works.

3MovinParts

Thanx guys for your help. Im hoppin on that right now. Btw--I believe it is seize, lol.

3MovinParts

Ok, just got thru checkin both the port actuators. One more question about them. My common sense tells me that if they open up at revs on the road, then they should open up with the car sitting still revving it in neutral. Is this true? I had my friend rev it while I looked from outside the car, and neither of them (including the one I can easily push in by hand) opened up. If my logic is right, then Im guessing something else may be the problem. Anyways, thanks for the help in advance.

Ragweed

They open based on back pressure from the exhaust. (I think)
Therefore only open under load.
So no, you wouldn't be able to open them while reving in neutral.

3MovinParts

yes they do open with backpressure, but u create backpressure when u rev, no matter if you're moving or not right? Backpressure is caused by the restricition in the exhaust system. When u rev in neutral, air still blows out your tailpipes, meanin that in the pre-cats and main cat, backpressure is created. Im speakin off regular knowledge, so could some1 plz tell me if they dont open while revvin neutral for some other reason. Cuz, if not for another reason, they should open even when in neutral.

WAYNE88N/A

It takes a load, which uses more fuel and air to accelerate the car than revving in neutral. Simple...More air ingested, more backpressure created.

3MovinParts

oh ok, so they wont open eh. Thank you so much Wayne and Ragweed for your help. At least now I know that both aren't dead :P.

3MovinParts

GRRRRR, took off number 5 port actuator (i refer to the one for the front rotor as #5), fixed it with a vise, vise grips, WD-40 and Lithium grease (TY tofuball). I decided to inspect the little swivel that it connects to, and guess what, it doesnt move. I tried WD-40 and channel locks to work it out, to no avail. So i guess whenever I get some new gaskets, I'll be takin off manifold . When i worked it with channel locks it is now stuck to open position, and makes great power up-top, but 5th gear up a hill at ~50ish is unheard of, lol. Thanx again for all the help, just a reassurance post that all the advice given was good :P. Oh, and thank god for something, I put some grease on the #6 actuator and it is pushed to the top after some good drivin, so it works--at least.

Tofuball

Excelent!

The one on my front rotor was locked as well.

In fact, of the three manifolds I have worked on, the front actuator rod was always the stuck one.

Interesting?

DerangedHermit

Mine is too... I can't even get the damn thing off the manifold. I unscrewed/bolted the thing and it just won't come off.

Tofuball

Yeh, what I did was I grabbed a spare whole IM from Fong (Awesome guy) and I ported and portmatched the whole thing.

While I had it out, I totally dissasembled the actuator rods.

I unbolted the cover, then I gently hammered it back and forth while pulling untill the rod came free. The rod on the front side I got fed up with and hammered it out from the back (You have to hit it dead on or the spring bends) Then I used my dremmel and lightly sanded down the inside of the brass insert that holds the rod, and also flanged the exit and entrence. Then I used a wire wheel and polished everything. Then buffed it out to a mirror shine

Then used my mix of antiseize on it and put it all back together.

And as I said in my previous post, the whole assembly still moves with a just a pinkys force.

I also painted my actuators and the whole IM with aluminum colored ceramic coat, so it all matches. I reccomend it.

sudseh

How long did the whole process take? (weekendable?)

Tofuball

It is weekendable.

However! You're in Maryland; Just drive here and I'll help you.

sudseh

Sounds good dude... Let me know a time/location that works for you. This Saturday, or Monday would be best for me since school is just starting up and I don't have much work yet.
~suds