AUTO FC Engine in MANUAL FC
AUTO FC Engine in MANUAL FC
I have 2 cars,
1 is an automatic 89 gxl
and one is a 1990 GTU manual.
Manual has a blown engine, automatic has a running engine
I want to put to out the manual blow engine and put in the automatic engine.
What do i need to get/know to do this swap???
Thanks in advance for the help
1 is an automatic 89 gxl
and one is a 1990 GTU manual.
Manual has a blown engine, automatic has a running engine
I want to put to out the manual blow engine and put in the automatic engine.
What do i need to get/know to do this swap???
Thanks in advance for the help
AFAIK, standard engine swap pretty much. Need to swap the flex plate for a flywheel. I'm sure others will chime in though....might have to do something regarding counterweights but I'm not to sure there.
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Dont forget to add a pilot bearing to the automatic motor. Buy a lightweight flywheel (without a counterweight) to bolt up to the counterweight or else you have to swap the manuel flywheel over,.. thats the major part,.. my cars engine core was an auto, so ive been through this allready.
One quick suggestion if you're going to swap the flywheels and seat a new bearing.
The factory auto fly wheel's eccentric shaft does not accomodate a pilot bearing, so you might have some problems there if your not crafty with machining it so you can put one in there. To make a long story short I once tried to use the eccentric shaft from an auto for manual. I failed utterly in modding it because I aproached the problem wrong.
What I would have done differently is not take a dremel tool to smooth out the inside for the bearing by hand. Bad Idea.
What would have been a better idea was to measure the pilot bearing width, then find a drill bit that was *very *close to that width, then drill out the shaft very carefully with a drill bit, or preferebly a drill press. Then I would have taken a cylindrical sanding disk that was within 0.01 or so of the pilot bearing's width and proceeded to finish out the new hole. And even then I would have put Lock Tite on the new bearing once I intended to seat it into the shaft.
Pilot bearings need to sit pretty snug and not be kiltered. That's why they're a bitch to get out in the first place and you need a special puller to remove them.
Then if you do all this, alot of people have problems removing the manual flywheel if they havent had experience with them before.
Once you get the fly wheel bolt off, with a very big socket (2' 1/8" You can get one at Sears) and breaker bar or air tools, the flywheel likes to sit on there very tightly. Before I learned (the hard way) I would take a steering wheel puller to it.
Not the best way, but that works. What's far easier is to take a rubber hammer, and hit the out side edges of the fly wheel over and over again until it comes loose. This is much easier and it usually pops off with a couple of nice hits.
The factory auto fly wheel's eccentric shaft does not accomodate a pilot bearing, so you might have some problems there if your not crafty with machining it so you can put one in there. To make a long story short I once tried to use the eccentric shaft from an auto for manual. I failed utterly in modding it because I aproached the problem wrong.
What I would have done differently is not take a dremel tool to smooth out the inside for the bearing by hand. Bad Idea.
What would have been a better idea was to measure the pilot bearing width, then find a drill bit that was *very *close to that width, then drill out the shaft very carefully with a drill bit, or preferebly a drill press. Then I would have taken a cylindrical sanding disk that was within 0.01 or so of the pilot bearing's width and proceeded to finish out the new hole. And even then I would have put Lock Tite on the new bearing once I intended to seat it into the shaft.
Pilot bearings need to sit pretty snug and not be kiltered. That's why they're a bitch to get out in the first place and you need a special puller to remove them.
Then if you do all this, alot of people have problems removing the manual flywheel if they havent had experience with them before.
Once you get the fly wheel bolt off, with a very big socket (2' 1/8" You can get one at Sears) and breaker bar or air tools, the flywheel likes to sit on there very tightly. Before I learned (the hard way) I would take a steering wheel puller to it.
Not the best way, but that works. What's far easier is to take a rubber hammer, and hit the out side edges of the fly wheel over and over again until it comes loose. This is much easier and it usually pops off with a couple of nice hits.
Last edited by Mobius; Oct 20, 2004 at 02:48 AM.
I did.
I'm not sure if the 86-88 eccentric shaft came machined from the factory diferently than the 88-92. But I do know that I did have this bearing issue in my 86 series.
I also checked mazdatrix website before I even wrote my first post here to see if they had a eccentric shaft listed for an auto and manual seperately.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/b4.htm
They did not.
However, I consider myself somewhat a fairly observent person, and I did in fact, have to change up my bearing hole.
I'm not sure if the 86-88 eccentric shaft came machined from the factory diferently than the 88-92. But I do know that I did have this bearing issue in my 86 series.
I also checked mazdatrix website before I even wrote my first post here to see if they had a eccentric shaft listed for an auto and manual seperately.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/b4.htm
They did not.
However, I consider myself somewhat a fairly observent person, and I did in fact, have to change up my bearing hole.
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