I'm a noob so I don't really know but is it possible to mount an automatic engine onto a manual transmission?
if so how? :O

 

change to flywheel. Find clutch and plate And Pilot bearing. Engines are not Automatic. they are just engines.

Not sure what ya got.. what are you doing agian? auto to manual swap? Cause you gona need alot more than that..

 

Just run the automatic engine for awhile to tire her down a bit. Then carefully have a few buddies hold her steady. Take the Manual transmission and as you lead him behind the automatic engine, as he mounts her..... ok.. I'm sorry, I just couldn't resist your question!

 

Im getting a motor from an automatic car and putting it onto a manual transmission. If that answers your question

 

if im not mistaken the rear iron mounting is diff. correct?is that what the op is have an issue with>?

 

No i did an auto to manual swap.. But if he does not know what he is doing he will run into problems. Not sure what year his car is. is it an s4 or s5? turbo non turbo all parts are not the same. My engine was from an auto. the rear irons are the same.. thats not the issue. But if he gets an engine from the wrong year car he will have issues

 

RX Freak is right, there is an N/A engine or turbo.. those are the differences... You'll just have to swap or add make changes in the flywheel, clutch, Pilot bearing basically depending on the year or series of car. I knew what you meant "ThePunishedRx7" I was just having fun with your question... my appologies rx-7 friend... peace...

 

The car is 86 S4 NA but the engine is from a 88 S4 NA. My question is when we change to a flywheel do we have to change the rear counterweight as well?

 

If its a second gen engine, It fits without any issues. Don't forget to press in a pilot bearing.

 

Rear iron shouldn't be any different. Just take out the engine, make sure you have a manual flywheel and clutch and pressure plate (preferably an exedy oem replacement), and a new throw out bearing. If the car you're putting it in is already manual, then make sure it still has the master and slave cylinders. Check for leaks and wear. If the condition is unknown, best off just buying replacements from rock auto. Both my master and slave are ZF Sachs units, slave hose is RacingBeat stainless steel, and fluid is any old brake fluid. You can use the synthetic fluid if you want too. And I know Project Mu sells racing fluid, but it is really not necessary unless you will be heavily tracking the car with a BBK.

Also, now would be a good time to replace your trans fluid as well. Drain plug is 21mm (IIRC), check the magnet for both grey and bronze particles. If it's really goopy, it shouldn't really be a problem. That's normal wear. But if there are any chunks, then there could be something seriously wrong in it. Grey= gears, bronze= synchros. Let it drain for a good hour or two, as you don't want much of any of the old fluid in there. clean the gunk off the plug, get a new crush washer, and put it back in. I like using anti-seize on all my bolts, just for that peace of mind. Torque it down relatively good, I have not seen any official torque spec on it, even in the FSM. Then, take the fill plug off. Use a box end wrench, and just remove it. Then, fill with any synthetic trans fluid with the proper viscosity rating for your temp range. It takes 3 US quarts. Anti-seize, tighten in, walla. You should now have a nice starting point for your new manual. It seems like a lot of work, but worth every bit of it.

 

The counter weight is built into the Flywheel bud. its part of the unit. But you make sure you are running NA parts. vs turbo parts. If you run turbo trans. you need turbo tran parts. the engine that comes from the auto has a FLEX plate Only. Prolly with a counterweight. You wont use that with the flywheel, Dont forget to get a Pilot bearing pressed in. the engine with the autos Dont have one

 

Infact. You dont even need to press a Pilot bearing in. I used a socket and a Light hammer and tapped it in with greese.. But you have to do it gental. and Evenly

 

This will answer your questions...

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...to_5speed.html

It's not overly difficult.

 

you can buy a lightweight flywheel and bolt it to the counterweight and not have to worry about the PITA 54mm nut.

 

Outside of needing a flywheel for the motor, there is only 1 physical difference between an auto engine and a manual engine: On the throttle body there will be a double diaphram that acts against the first set of throttle plates. On a manual transmission equipped car the TB has a single diaphram. There is ultimately nothing wrong with using either or, I ran the auto TB on my last nonturbo for 5 years and i never suffered a problem from it.

 

it the FD engine that has a specific rear plate ( iron ) for the auto model
,, s4/5 FC is identical in the basic block between auto and manual,, but slightly different in TB and has an extra switch/sender on the water pump assembly
PS
manual cars have a spigot bearing fitted into the rear of the crank

s4 auto starter fits the turbo manual gearbox ,, and is an upgrade

 

Thanks guys. hopefully I can get the money up soon and have it running the streets!