alright so i just got done doing my auto to manual swap using a turbo II drive line on my 90 vert.

i started the car yesturday and it was like sex, the car drop good but i kept hearing weird noises, but i just though either A) its the new exhaust i have rattling or B) the **** i have in my truck.

now i go to start the car this morning and it wont go into gear.
reverse grinds also.
but when the car is off i can put the car in gear.
i tried putting it in first then turning the car and the car jumped.
i also saw the slave cylinder was pushing the throw out bearing thing.
and the master cylinder is new.

soo my question is.
is it the pilot bearing.
or something else that doesnt require me dropping the stupid f!$#king transmission again.

 

We did the exact same thing over Thanksgiving. Tii tranny into a 90 vert.

Had similar issues too.

The big problem we had was getting the clutch truly bled. I used some brake cleaner and an air hose to check each of the 3 connections. I had to really crank them down.

The clutch adjuster is key in this too. I found that to really bleed I had to loosen it so that the rod was just touching the inside of the MC. Any pre-load and it wouldn't bleed.

The vacuum type bleeder is IMHO a requirement. Dont enter the garage without it. I also put a bunch of teflon tape around the bleeder screw so air didn't suck in around the side while vacuuming.

After bleeding I adjusted the clutch pedal rod to give maximum throw. Having a friend helps with this.

I did a fair amount of manually turning the engine over with the front bolt as a test.

The shifter was pretty tight with the lucas gear oil. AFter a week to clean everything up inside it got easier and easier to shift. Then I put Royal Purple syth gear oil in it and it was like butta...

Good luck

 

another thing I did to test the system was I put a ratcheting style tie down strap on the clutch lever and then down to the chassis or tranny bracket. I cranked it down to move the level to full throw. I put it in first and hand turned the engine off the pulley. If the pilot bearing is bound up tighter than a 5 year old on an all Mac & Cheese diet, you'll know it.

 

where is this clutch adjuster?
and also by the clutch lever you mean the thing the slave clyinder pushed the rod into right?

 

The rod that goes from the clutch pedal to the master cylinder is threaded. it has a lock nut on it too. You can screw it in to the MC to get more/earlier clutch movement.

The clutch lever (my term, probably isnt official) is the one the slave cylinder piston pushes on. It moves the throw out bearing into the pressure plate inside the bell housing.

 

www.speedbleeder.com Makes bleeding brakes and clutch cylinders much easier. Its been a while since I've done a clutch but if i remember correctly, the brake bleeder port is the same size as the clutch slave cylinder, but I could be wrong.

 

ok i bleed teh system.
tried to adjust the clutch pedal as in freeplay and theres minmum freeplay now.
i put the car in gear and started it and i got it to move, but then when i took it out of gear it wouldnt go back in to another one.
anybody else?

 

did you put in a new clutch kit with a new pilot bearing?

 

If it wont go into gear with the engine idling, it means the tranny's input shaft is spinning. That can be caused by one of two things,

1) the pilot bearing is bound up (you f'd it up during tranny install) or
2) the clutch isn't releasing probably because you still have air in your hydraulics (there are scores of threads on the topic so don't feel like you're special!)

The ratcheting tie-down strap technique I outlined earlier will prove that you don't have problem 1. If you apply this technique and can turn the propeller shaft without the engine turning or visa-versa, then you know the problem is in either your clutch or the hydraulics; and chances are extremely good its the hydraulics.

Good luck

 

alirght htanks man, i bought a new slave yesturday and im going to try bleeding it again and trying that strap down technique

 

Yeah, I put a new slave on. Still didnt' work. Put a new MC on. Still didn't work. Tried different hoses (rubber and SS).

That's my modus operandi apparently. Throw money at it until it submits!

 

well the slave cylinder seems to be extended, but not fully when the car isnt even on and the pedal isnt pressed in.
what does that mean?

 

im going to shoot myself in the head.
the guy who helped me with my swap put the wrong ******* SLAVE CYLINDER ON THE CAR. he put the n/a one on my TII tranny.
i was comparing them today and i noticed that they arent the same.

wtf.

i think i bent the fork on the tranny.