August 2008 Pics and Updates On My Turbo NA Bridgeport Project
08-15-08, 11:12 AM
#51
Engine, Not Motor
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The switch is made by Hella, Toyota part number 00550-35976. I purchased it from Susquehanna Motorsports. http://www.rallylights.com/hella/swi...ted_rocker.asp
Such a pain to cut out oblong mounting holes and have everything sit correctly and flush. Round is a hell of a lot easier to drill.
I didn't use a kit when I put in power locks, and there are no interior switches (the alarm locks and unlocks the door with the ignition). Instead, I used existing factory wire runs (crimped, and heat-shrunk connectors and connections), actuators from 12voltparts, and put together a progressive unlock circuit with relays, connectors, sockets and the 2nd-unlock feature from my alarm system brain.
Speaking of power window modules, I used one (that interfaces with my alarm brain) to add one-touch open and close on my factory sunroof (which can be opened and closed by remote). One day, I may add power windows, but I've been happy with the crank windows (odd, considering).
I'm thinking of rigging a set of microswitches at the the top and bottom of the window travel. Connected to the drive relays, they would add an auto up and auto down feature. The autodown on the drivers window is so handy in the Insight.
Yes, I'm an Insight owner; best money ever spent on a car and just about perfect as a year-round car in Michigan can get.
It's a perfect daily driver. With nearly 250,000 on mine I've had few problems. Did recently have to replace the oil pan due to a crack though.
03-20-09, 10:57 AM
#56
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I'm almost certain this was covered on the 1st page. NA diff.
04-02-09, 08:12 PM
#57
Aaron, I know this is a little old, But I have a pair Of Sparco Torino 2 seats that I do not feel that spending an extra 200 USD plus Shipping and duties is not worth when you welded the tabs to the bottom of the seat and lowered it's sitting position how close to stock did it end up?
04-03-09, 10:05 AM
#58
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I can't predict how your seats would sit, but mine ended up about 1" higher then stock. 1" is actually quite significant and changes the view out of the windshield. There are a set of 1/2" spacers I can remove to lower the seat, which I intend to do as I now think the seat is a bit high.
The OEM seats have their mounts sunken into their frame a bit so they naturally mount low compared to aftermarket seats which generally have their mounts right on the bottom. It is hard to get aftermarket seats to sit as low as OEM.
The OEM seats have their mounts sunken into their frame a bit so they naturally mount low compared to aftermarket seats which generally have their mounts right on the bottom. It is hard to get aftermarket seats to sit as low as OEM.
04-03-09, 10:22 AM
#59
So by welding the tabs to the bottom of the seat and having a 1/2" spacer you ended up with your seats being roughly 1" higher?
So based on your seats you were able using factory mounts and sliders you were able to have an aftermarket seat be only 1/2" higher than stock?
I ask because the aftermarket brackets from Sparco for our cars sit 1/2" higher. I do not want to spend the money If I could do the same thing.
So based on your seats you were able using factory mounts and sliders you were able to have an aftermarket seat be only 1/2" higher than stock?
I ask because the aftermarket brackets from Sparco for our cars sit 1/2" higher. I do not want to spend the money If I could do the same thing.
04-03-09, 01:13 PM
#60
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The tabs were actually welded to the stock seat bracket, and the 1/2" spacer came with the seats (it keeps the adjustment lever from hitting stuff). The additional 1/2" came from the construction of the seats themselves. I think that if I remove most of the 1/2" spacer (making it into more like a 3/16" spacer) then the seat will probably lower enough to totally change the angle looking out of the windshield. That's what I'd like because at this point I am looking more out of the top half then the middle. Things like that annoy me. I like my seat close to the steering wheel so the extra height is probably not an issue for those who have their seats set further back.
I like my seat close to the steering wheel so the extra height is probably not an issue for those who have their seats set further back.
04-03-09, 10:36 PM
#61
Yeah the small stuff like that bothers me also! That is why I am asking lots of questions cause I just found out that it would be 400 dollars for sliders/brackets for the torino 2's and are backordered! So I think some fabbing is in order! I work at a fire truck manufacturer so I can most likely make my own custom base if need be!
04-04-09, 10:27 AM
#62
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The FC brackets are fairly easy to modify, it was just time consuming initially to figure out what needed to be done for the passenger side because I was hauling the seat in and out of the car a few hundred times. The driver side though is dead simple. Most aftermarket seats mount the same way which is just going to require redrilling and slotting some holes.
04-06-09, 05:19 PM
#64
OOOOOH dynamat!
Nice. Granted you have yours for a different reason than i want mine for.
I have two 12's and a 1000 watt rms amp. My doors visibly flex when the bass hits. It sounds terrible.
How much did you pay to do all that? Looks like enough for my entire hatch area, and doors which is what i need.
Also, i like those seats. Ebay special? If so, do you have a link to their store?
Nice. Granted you have yours for a different reason than i want mine for.
I have two 12's and a 1000 watt rms amp. My doors visibly flex when the bass hits. It sounds terrible.
How much did you pay to do all that? Looks like enough for my entire hatch area, and doors which is what i need.
Also, i like those seats. Ebay special? If so, do you have a link to their store?
04-07-09, 12:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mazdaverx713b
Aaron, i have a COMPLETE maroon interior from and 88 SE if there's any little parts you need to finish your car let me know. i'll send them to you for the price of shipping.
Thanks for the offer, but I'm good. I just buy all new trim at the dealer. It's actually quite cheap...
I've really been wanting to switch to a black or grey interior from that bubble gum blue interior in my car... How cheap is cheap? You have any basic numbers for the Dash, Carpet, ect.?
If not, where would I look to find a dealer catalog or something?
Please and thank you sir,
Scott.
Originally Posted by mazdaverx713b
Aaron, i have a COMPLETE maroon interior from and 88 SE if there's any little parts you need to finish your car let me know. i'll send them to you for the price of shipping.
Thanks for the offer, but I'm good. I just buy all new trim at the dealer. It's actually quite cheap...
I've really been wanting to switch to a black or grey interior from that bubble gum blue interior in my car... How cheap is cheap? You have any basic numbers for the Dash, Carpet, ect.?
If not, where would I look to find a dealer catalog or something?
Please and thank you sir,
Scott.
04-07-09, 09:41 AM
#66
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Wow... Aaroncake.... Do you ever regret knowing everything?
Your getting asked questions about other peoples junk in your own build thread o.O
PS... I'm jealous of London. We've driven down twice in the past 2 weeks just to go grab junk from Coreys....
Your getting asked questions about other peoples junk in your own build thread o.O
PS... I'm jealous of London. We've driven down twice in the past 2 weeks just to go grab junk from Coreys....
04-07-09, 09:44 AM
#67
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Yep.
I think I have about $300 into that much DynaMat. I spent more then I needed to because I didn't buy in bulk. Not knowing how much I would need I had to buy two small boxes before I finally bought the big one.
They are a set of China seats that are marketed under several different names. As far as I can tell, APC, Bride and a bunch of others sell the same seats with their own sticker on them. I don't know of any eBay auctions off hand.
You'll find the 2nd gen parts catalog in the FAQ which will give you the part numbers. Some trim pieces aren't available. I can't find a maroon center console nor can I find speaker covers. Most trim pieces are cheap. For example, the stereo console is about $50. The A-pillar trims are around $75.
OOOOOH dynamat!
Nice. Granted you have yours for a different reason than i want mine for.
I have two 12's and a 1000 watt rms amp. My doors visibly flex when the bass hits. It sounds terrible.
How much did you pay to do all that? Looks like enough for my entire hatch area, and doors which is what i need.
Nice. Granted you have yours for a different reason than i want mine for.
I have two 12's and a 1000 watt rms amp. My doors visibly flex when the bass hits. It sounds terrible.
How much did you pay to do all that? Looks like enough for my entire hatch area, and doors which is what i need.
Also, i like those seats. Ebay special? If so, do you have a link to their store?
You'll find the 2nd gen parts catalog in the FAQ which will give you the part numbers. Some trim pieces aren't available. I can't find a maroon center console nor can I find speaker covers. Most trim pieces are cheap. For example, the stereo console is about $50. The A-pillar trims are around $75.
11-02-09, 08:10 AM
#68
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Aaron, excellent write up. First I think you are overly generous giving the ACC carpet a 2, I would say a 1 at best. Can you give me a little more details on what exactly you had to do on the front passenger carpet install? The overall fitment is just wrong on this section of the car and I want to avoid hacking up the carpet to make it fit. I aplaud your sticking with the pimp red, I personally had to opt out of this and went with black carpet, headliner and sunroof and a charcoal interior.
11-02-09, 10:19 AM
#69
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Aaron, excellent write up. First I think you are overly generous giving the ACC carpet a 2, I would say a 1 at best. Can you give me a little more details on what exactly you had to do on the front passenger carpet install? The overall fitment is just wrong on this section of the car and I want to avoid hacking up the carpet to make it fit. I aplaud your sticking with the pimp red, I personally had to opt out of this and went with black carpet, headliner and sunroof and a charcoal interior.
I love the whorehouse red interior. Just wish I could find a center console. Mazda doesn't have any, and all the used ones are junk.
11-02-09, 10:48 AM
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Why not make a center console out of fiberglass or CF and paint it? You could use the oem one to make the mold or go custom. Just a thought.
11-02-09, 05:14 PM
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Thanks for the help, I have completely stripped my car and dynamatted the works. I actually pulled out the whole red interior, so if you need anything drop me a line. My stereo surround was black and broke as was the console (imagine that).
I fitted the carpet by using the rear upturns as a reference. It took considerable trimming at the firewall area before I could slide the carpet in place (I notched the area at the shifter so I did not have to remove the dash...this may have helped a lot). Then I put the rear upturn area against the bulkhead and trimmed the front to fit under the dash. At the same time, I had to leave extra material at the front of both sides in order to allow the carpet to bunch up a bit where the seats mount.
I love the whorehouse red interior. Just wish I could find a center console. Mazda doesn't have any, and all the used ones are junk.
I love the whorehouse red interior. Just wish I could find a center console. Mazda doesn't have any, and all the used ones are junk.
11-02-09, 05:37 PM
#72
There is a business located in Arizona called "Second Skin Audio" and they sell stuff which is exactly like Dynamat, if not even better and it costs a whole lot less. With Dynamat, you are paying for the name and my perspective is if it does the very same thing then "save money" and go with Second Skin products. I used a few of their products and my car is as quiet as can be. There is no mistake about this observation for it is that clear cut.
11-04-09, 11:08 AM
#75
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There is a business located in Arizona called "Second Skin Audio" and they sell stuff which is exactly like Dynamat, if not even better and it costs a whole lot less. With Dynamat, you are paying for the name and my perspective is if it does the very same thing then "save money" and go with Second Skin products. I used a few of their products and my car is as quiet as can be. There is no mistake about this observation for it is that clear cut.
I am currently running an NA transmission but I won't be for much longer. I blew one up this spring on a 3rd gear pull after damaging it at the 1/4 mile last year, and the replacement is now starting to whine as well now that I have turned up to the boost (500 wheel HP is a lot of fun). I have a TII transmission out at a shop right now being built and will swap it this winter.