August 2008 Pics and Updates On My Turbo NA Bridgeport Project
08-06-08, 09:56 PM
#27
As usual Mr. Cake, your log is nicely illustrated and cleverly written...kudos.
BTW...instead of Armorall I'd recommend you try generic unscented petroleum jelly on your plastic parts. Park the car in the sun to heat up the interior, then move to the garage. Slather on a goodly coat of the jelly and let it sit.
Revisit after a few hours and add more to the areas that have prematurely dried.
Let sit overnight then buff the surfaces with an old t-shirt or diaper.
You'll get a nice matte gloss instead of the artificial high shine of Armorall and it lasts much longer. It's not as messy as it sounds and supposedly the petroleum revitalizes the plastic as opposed to just laying a skin over the top. I saw this in a detailing forum a few years ago and have been very happy with the results.
Plus, it's a lot cheaper than Armorall and it's kin.
BTW...instead of Armorall I'd recommend you try generic unscented petroleum jelly on your plastic parts. Park the car in the sun to heat up the interior, then move to the garage. Slather on a goodly coat of the jelly and let it sit.
Revisit after a few hours and add more to the areas that have prematurely dried.
Let sit overnight then buff the surfaces with an old t-shirt or diaper.
You'll get a nice matte gloss instead of the artificial high shine of Armorall and it lasts much longer. It's not as messy as it sounds and supposedly the petroleum revitalizes the plastic as opposed to just laying a skin over the top. I saw this in a detailing forum a few years ago and have been very happy with the results.
Plus, it's a lot cheaper than Armorall and it's kin.
Good idea, I'm gonna use this!
Aaron, I mounted my MT hand controller, with the cable excess contained inside the stereo surround. I figured I could pull the cable out when I need to tune with a laptop, and tuck it away when I don't need it. Good work, your stuff is always interesting!
Pardon the dusty interior:
08-06-08, 10:19 PM
#29
Aaron, i have a COMPLETE maroon interior from and 88 SE if there's any little parts you need to finish your car let me know. i'll send them to you for the price of shipping.
car looks great. i really respect the amount of blood, sweat, time, and money goes into these cars and it seems as though its paying off well for you!
car looks great. i really respect the amount of blood, sweat, time, and money goes into these cars and it seems as though its paying off well for you!
08-06-08, 11:06 PM
#31
IFO Forced Induction Slo
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I'd never thought I'd see that much dynomat in a 7 before. The added weight should help with your traction problem at the track and yeild some better times. Great Job Aaron.
Also, kickass choice of music. Ramms+ein is the best.
Also, kickass choice of music. Ramms+ein is the best.
08-07-08, 01:13 AM
#32
Displacement Replacement
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for next time lol, if you heat the backin up on the carpet with a heat gun, or even a blow drier it makes forming it 200 times easier
looking good tho Aaron!
you'll need to put in a cage and the 5 point harness's to go to the drags with those seats, youd be better off just selling them to me hahahahahaha
your not aloud to use the stock seat belt with aftermarket seats
looking good tho Aaron!
you'll need to put in a cage and the 5 point harness's to go to the drags with those seats, youd be better off just selling them to me hahahahahaha
your not aloud to use the stock seat belt with aftermarket seats
Last edited by FC3Sdrift; 08-07-08 at 01:29 AM.
08-07-08, 10:32 AM
#34
Engine, Not Motor
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That reminds me SO MUCH of my MX-3 when I bought it. He had the cheapest CD player I have ever seen (the $40 Durabrand one from Wal-mart). The worst part was the wiring. He had cur off the factory harness completely (and left almost no slack for me to fix it....) and the decided to run ALL NEW WIRES. This included running new wires to the speakers and running wires though the firewall to the battery. This means that it was on all of the time, so I had to turn the stereo off when I turned off the car to avoid killing the battery. He also used shitty home stereo speakers in the rear. They were sitting where the spare tire should have been.....
To get mine I just walked into the Mazda dealer and ordered it. Showed up the next day. I'd say that means they are available though you probably have to give them the part number as it's hard to find on the fiche. Most, if not all, of the FC trim is still available and surprisingly cheap. The prices have dropped over the last few years. I suspect less fade prone colours are more available then maroon.
Nice work on that switch panel. I love the DB9 port. I been thinking of doing something similar.
The wrongness I was referring to is the 4 lug 4 piston setup, for those who don't see this thread... 
I'll get back to your PM regarding the spacers. I've just been busy lately working on the car and then writing this thread.
BTW...instead of Armorall I'd recommend you try generic unscented petroleum jelly on your plastic parts. Park the car in the sun to heat up the interior, then move to the garage. Slather on a goodly coat of the jelly and let it sit.
Revisit after a few hours and add more to the areas that have prematurely dried.
Let sit overnight then buff the surfaces with an old t-shirt or diaper.
You'll get a nice matte gloss instead of the artificial high shine of Armorall and it lasts much longer. It's not as messy as it sounds and supposedly the petroleum revitalizes the plastic as opposed to just laying a skin over the top. I saw this in a detailing forum a few years ago and have been very happy with the results.
Plus, it's a lot cheaper than Armorall and it's kin.
Revisit after a few hours and add more to the areas that have prematurely dried.
Let sit overnight then buff the surfaces with an old t-shirt or diaper.
You'll get a nice matte gloss instead of the artificial high shine of Armorall and it lasts much longer. It's not as messy as it sounds and supposedly the petroleum revitalizes the plastic as opposed to just laying a skin over the top. I saw this in a detailing forum a few years ago and have been very happy with the results.
Plus, it's a lot cheaper than Armorall and it's kin.
The whole setup is as follows:
DB9 M (on Microtech) -> DB9 F to DB9 F extension cable to dash -> Small DB9 M to M (on switch panel) -> DB9F to DB9F (to laptop)
I think that makes sense.
I just buy all new trim at the dealer. It's actually quite cheap...
you'll need to put in a cage and the 5 point harness's to go to the drags with those seats, youd be better off just selling them to me hahahahahaha
A lot of people (and I mean a LOT of people) run at Sparta with clapped out **** boxes that are far worse then a set of aftermarket seats. Funny though, I'm ususally the only one that has to go through tech inspection...and the inspector clearly has no clue what he's looking at.
Just an NA LSD that bolts right in. I may rebuild it and have the gears hardened, or use an aftermarket center section (Kazz or similar).
08-07-08, 12:19 PM
#35
While I'm not sure about that, I do feel that Armorall is bad to the extent that once you start using it you have to continue or it ends up worse than before.
Anyway, the first time I used the petroleum jelly I prepared the surfaces by scrubbing with a t-shirt dampened with hot water and a bit of dish soap.
It was amazing how much crap came off, especially in high wear areas like the top of the door panel where your arm rests.
Since that initial cleaning I've only dusted before treatment.
Here in Denver- probably because of the high UV exposure- I've found about every six months to be the service interval.
08-07-08, 11:12 PM
#36
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This thread is an epic win. Aaron, I love reading the updates. Please keep them up!
The interior restoration is incredible. It's so nice to see a stock-ish interior that's actually new. I may just spring for a dealership radio surround.
The Dynamat job looks really good. I will probably do that, too, once I get around to reviving my 7. Your hardships without it reminded me of my brother and his gutted interior of his Civic. Lots and lots of rattling and other noises were extremely annoying.
Please keep us informed. This is like reading an RX-7 magazine that comes out every few months or so. I love it!
The interior restoration is incredible. It's so nice to see a stock-ish interior that's actually new. I may just spring for a dealership radio surround.
The Dynamat job looks really good. I will probably do that, too, once I get around to reviving my 7. Your hardships without it reminded me of my brother and his gutted interior of his Civic. Lots and lots of rattling and other noises were extremely annoying.
Please keep us informed. This is like reading an RX-7 magazine that comes out every few months or so. I love it!
08-08-08, 05:52 PM
#39
with that huge turbo on a stock n/a transmission....awesome feat I must say.
I was thinking about going the same route but Ive never seen a n/a tranny taking more then 220hp. A friend of mines swapped a TII engine to his n/a driveline and after 2 months the transmission went clunk and no more shifting for him.
Of course though, he drives like a dick, and races alot.
I was thinking about going the same route but Ive never seen a n/a tranny taking more then 220hp. A friend of mines swapped a TII engine to his n/a driveline and after 2 months the transmission went clunk and no more shifting for him.
Of course though, he drives like a dick, and races alot.
08-10-08, 12:53 AM
#41
Displacement Replacement
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just seeing that it hold that power shows that they are capable of withstanding it, alot of it depends on the driver and the history of the transmission
08-11-08, 10:15 AM
#44
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Yet no one mentions the greatest Japanese band of all time, also shown in the pictures:
Cibo Matto can clog dance?!
(bonus points if you get the reference)
Anyway, just a quick note to say that I installed the steering column trim on the weekend and finally was able to get some time to totally clean the interior. After vacuuming the carpet gained much fluffyness and a more even colour. Since I already had the Armorall out for the Honda I applied it to the cleaned surfaces of the dash and associated trim. The dash sucked the stuff right up and regained it's even colouring and shine. The new black trim really started to match everything else after a light dusting of Armorall as well.
Today I think I'll stop by Mazda and see about a center console. If maroon is still available I'll go with that, but if not I think black would work well too.
Cibo Matto can clog dance?!
(bonus points if you get the reference)
Anyway, just a quick note to say that I installed the steering column trim on the weekend and finally was able to get some time to totally clean the interior. After vacuuming the carpet gained much fluffyness and a more even colour. Since I already had the Armorall out for the Honda I applied it to the cleaned surfaces of the dash and associated trim. The dash sucked the stuff right up and regained it's even colouring and shine. The new black trim really started to match everything else after a light dusting of Armorall as well.
Today I think I'll stop by Mazda and see about a center console. If maroon is still available I'll go with that, but if not I think black would work well too.
08-11-08, 11:23 AM
#45
As much as I admire your attention to detail and all around craftsmanship, I gotta say...I absolutely hate your switches.
They just scream RadioShack!- or even worse, PepBoys!.
I must have missed where you describe what they control, but seems like a few hours in a junkyard could find some OEM switchgear that didn't look so obviously "added-on".
Also, since I'm feeling comfy playing armchair quarterback, I'd move the DB9 port to somewhere hidden (like behind the ashtray) since 99% of the time nothing will be connected to it.
Bonus points: Buffy The Vampire Slayer.
They just scream RadioShack!- or even worse, PepBoys!.
I must have missed where you describe what they control, but seems like a few hours in a junkyard could find some OEM switchgear that didn't look so obviously "added-on".
Also, since I'm feeling comfy playing armchair quarterback, I'd move the DB9 port to somewhere hidden (like behind the ashtray) since 99% of the time nothing will be connected to it.
Bonus points: Buffy The Vampire Slayer.
08-11-08, 02:53 PM
#46
Engine, Not Motor
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I've been debating about swapping the switches for a while. Indeed, the center toggles are actually from Radio Shack. The two center switches control the windows, while the left switch is the daytime running lights and the right switch controls the foglights. I could replace the two light switches with something more contemporary but I feel the window switches need to remain as toggles for ease of use. Then two nicer switches beside two toggles would look just as bad as 4 toggles.
Cutting down the lever of the two light toggles and then filing the edge round would probably make a big difference.
As for the DB9, I love it! We'll see how many people ask "what's that?" when they get in the car.
Hmm...The Buffy reference was too easy.
Cutting down the lever of the two light toggles and then filing the edge round would probably make a big difference.
As for the DB9, I love it!
We'll see how many people ask "what's that?" when they get in the car.Hmm...The Buffy reference was too easy.
08-11-08, 04:02 PM
#48
Rotary Enthusiast
Good work.
I have the same story with my FC. When I got it, there was a Kenwood CD player wired up and only half the (factory) speakers were working. Turned out someone had don't a installation and hacked up the wiring both at the receiver end and the speaker wiring along the rear harness. It had long since been fixed.
Since installing the alarm, I reworked the rear, front and dash harnesses to streamline things. Since I have a stereo with separate amps, I excised the speaker wiring (or reused it and its pins on the plugs for other functions) and converted the three (or is it four) plugs to a single six-conductor connector, and ran custom-made RCA patch cables to the rear and separate cable runs for the speakers.
I did the sound deadening insulation too, but went with RAAMaudio BXT Mat (cheaper than Dynamat, but equal in quality), and went a little further with a layer on the doors (also a layer inside along the reinforcement beam) and a layer of foam on the backs of the plastic trim pieces (1/8" I think) and some areas such as the floor and rear with 1/4" and 1/8" (ensolite) acoustic foam. If you want to improve the sound of the door speakers, put a square layer of acoustic foam directly behind them.
I also got rid of the factory jute backing and replaced with waterproof foam where I could, and made up a new hatch mat (the plastic mat under the rear carpet with jute backing) with the original black plastic top layer and a layer of foam (1/4" and 1/8" sandwiched to match the same thickness as the original) and also a cover for the factory spare tools set using a piece of aluminum sandwiched by two layers of 1/8" foam.
For the fog lamp switches, my setup uses a Toyota OEM switch in the center console between the seats. It's a good quality rocker switch that has a good feel to it and just plain works. I didn't go with power windows, though I have power locks, power hatch release (replacing the cable driven mechanism while retaining the lever using a actuating switch) and keyless entry. You'll need 7 pounds of pulling force to release the hatch.
Oops, I rambled.
Again, great work.
I have the same story with my FC. When I got it, there was a Kenwood CD player wired up and only half the (factory) speakers were working. Turned out someone had don't a installation and hacked up the wiring both at the receiver end and the speaker wiring along the rear harness. It had long since been fixed.
Since installing the alarm, I reworked the rear, front and dash harnesses to streamline things. Since I have a stereo with separate amps, I excised the speaker wiring (or reused it and its pins on the plugs for other functions) and converted the three (or is it four) plugs to a single six-conductor connector, and ran custom-made RCA patch cables to the rear and separate cable runs for the speakers.
I did the sound deadening insulation too, but went with RAAMaudio BXT Mat (cheaper than Dynamat, but equal in quality), and went a little further with a layer on the doors (also a layer inside along the reinforcement beam) and a layer of foam on the backs of the plastic trim pieces (1/8" I think) and some areas such as the floor and rear with 1/4" and 1/8" (ensolite) acoustic foam. If you want to improve the sound of the door speakers, put a square layer of acoustic foam directly behind them.
I also got rid of the factory jute backing and replaced with waterproof foam where I could, and made up a new hatch mat (the plastic mat under the rear carpet with jute backing) with the original black plastic top layer and a layer of foam (1/4" and 1/8" sandwiched to match the same thickness as the original) and also a cover for the factory spare tools set using a piece of aluminum sandwiched by two layers of 1/8" foam.
For the fog lamp switches, my setup uses a Toyota OEM switch in the center console between the seats. It's a good quality rocker switch that has a good feel to it and just plain works. I didn't go with power windows, though I have power locks, power hatch release (replacing the cable driven mechanism while retaining the lever using a actuating switch) and keyless entry. You'll need 7 pounds of pulling force to release the hatch.
Oops, I rambled.
Again, great work.
08-13-08, 11:24 AM
#49
Engine, Not Motor
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Good work.
I did the sound deadening insulation too, but went with RAAMaudio BXT Mat (cheaper than Dynamat, but equal in quality), and went a little further with a layer on the doors (also a layer inside along the reinforcement beam) and a layer of foam on the backs of the plastic trim pieces (1/8" I think) and some areas such as the floor and rear with 1/4" and 1/8" (ensolite) acoustic foam. If you want to improve the sound of the door speakers, put a square layer of acoustic foam directly behind them.
I did the sound deadening insulation too, but went with RAAMaudio BXT Mat (cheaper than Dynamat, but equal in quality), and went a little further with a layer on the doors (also a layer inside along the reinforcement beam) and a layer of foam on the backs of the plastic trim pieces (1/8" I think) and some areas such as the floor and rear with 1/4" and 1/8" (ensolite) acoustic foam. If you want to improve the sound of the door speakers, put a square layer of acoustic foam directly behind them.
For the fog lamp switches, my setup uses a Toyota OEM switch in the center console between the seats. It's a good quality rocker switch that has a good feel to it and just plain works. I didn't go with power windows, though I have power locks, power hatch release (replacing the cable driven mechanism while retaining the lever using a actuating switch) and keyless entry. You'll need 7 pounds of pulling force to release the hatch.
I have power locks I added years ago with an AutoLoc kit, but don't have a power trunk release. I do happen to have an extra 6 channel remote box sitting downstairs so I may install it. I'd eventually like a power hatch release as well as remotely controlled power windows.
And holy crap, it says in your signature that you're also an Insight owner! I thought I was the only one.
08-14-08, 04:52 PM
#50
Rotary Enthusiast
The switch is made by Hella, Toyota part number 00550-35976. I purchased it from Susquehanna Motorsports. http://www.rallylights.com/hella/swi...ted_rocker.asp
I didn't use a kit when I put in power locks, and there are no interior switches (the alarm locks and unlocks the door with the ignition). Instead, I used existing factory wire runs (crimped, and heat-shrunk connectors and connections), actuators from 12voltparts, and put together a progressive unlock circuit with relays, connectors, sockets and the 2nd-unlock feature from my alarm system brain.
Speaking of power window modules, I used one (that interfaces with my alarm brain) to add one-touch open and close on my factory sunroof (which can be opened and closed by remote). One day, I may add power windows, but I've been happy with the crank windows (odd, considering).
Yes, I'm an Insight owner; best money ever spent on a car and just about perfect as a year-round car in Michigan can get.
I didn't use a kit when I put in power locks, and there are no interior switches (the alarm locks and unlocks the door with the ignition). Instead, I used existing factory wire runs (crimped, and heat-shrunk connectors and connections), actuators from 12voltparts, and put together a progressive unlock circuit with relays, connectors, sockets and the 2nd-unlock feature from my alarm system brain.
Speaking of power window modules, I used one (that interfaces with my alarm brain) to add one-touch open and close on my factory sunroof (which can be opened and closed by remote). One day, I may add power windows, but I've been happy with the crank windows (odd, considering).
Yes, I'm an Insight owner; best money ever spent on a car and just about perfect as a year-round car in Michigan can get.