jon88se

I've had the car back since early July when the TII swap was completed. Since then I broke the motor in, installed the Rtek7 1.5 ECU and have been enjoying the car. When we installed the TII swap, I forgot to get another EGT bung to install the 60mm GReddy EGT gauge since I used it on my NA and the old bung was welded to that downpipe.

The new bung arrived the other week and I got it installed. It's in my HKS downpipe no more than 5 inches from the back of the turbo. Under WOT run to 60 (redlining 1st and 2nd gear) boost reaches a max of .8 bar (like 12 psi) in the midrange during 2nd gear (max load for the run). Boost falls off approaching redline to about .6 bar (9 psi) since the car has a stock wastegate, ported, with no boost controller. My EGT's read a max of 620 C which seems extremely rich to me. The car runs well and pulls strong, she idles like a champ @ 800 solid as well.

The rtek7 1.5 does bump up the duty cycle of the primaries and extend their injection timing as well as lowering the injection point to 3500. The ECU also retards timing of approximately 1 degree per psi over 8.6 which is where the stock ECU stops retarding timing on boost since it's only expecting to see a max of 8.6 psi (fuel cut).

The only other fuel mod I have is a walbro pump. I won't do a third gear WOT run because even w/ the ported wastegate it creeps too much. I did it once and I hit a max of 1 bar (15 psi) which is too much boost for the motor/turbo. I'm thinking about an S5 turbo, porting THAT wastegate and tossing in my Greddy Profec B spec II for accurate boost control.

Do these EGT's seem low to anyone else? (Reted especially, he is the FC tuning king). I'm guessing that the EGT reacts too slowly to record the real max @ 12psi since I'm only making that much boost for a couple of seconds because it falls off as redline approaches. I'm guessing that the loss of boost + timing retard + additional fuel = the low EGT's. Sound right to anyone? The car has the following mods:

kevin landers S4 TII rebuild w/ streetport (still NA tranny/rear)
GReddy FMIC
HKS downpipe, Apexi dual N1, no cats, no emissions
K&N, stock TID
Walbro + rtek7 1.5 ECU, stock injectors
RB aluminum flywheel, CFDF clutch
GReddy 60 mm boost/EGT gauges w/ warning/memory

jon88se

bump

RETed

First of all, you're going to get slapped on the wrist for posting names in the subject line.

Second, 1st and 2nd gear loading is not enough to give you a good idea of proper engine loads.
I'd recommend doing this at least in 3rd, but with your boost creep problems, this might not be possible.

Yes, the EGT's do sound a bit cold.
What do you see cruising at highway speeds?
In closed-loop, the temps should be around 750C to 800C.
Is this consistent with yours?

Have you ever tried holding WOT in 3rd gear?
It is going over 15psi?

They key to watching the EGT is...at WOT, the EGT should be steady.
If it slows edges up, it's on the edge of detonation.
If it starts to skyrocket, lift off.

With your set-up, try and shoot for at least 700C to 720C.
That was the temps I was seeing with my GReddy 52mm EGT with the probe in the downpipe.
This was confirmed with a Horiba Lambda wide-band.



-Ted

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

So I guess 900C on a n/a is a bad thing with the probe mounted 4" from the stock exhaust manifold outlet?

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

also noticed you say you have a Walbro/street port but no mention of upgraded injectors or fuel management. It's a little scary since you say your hitting 12-15psi. Most believe the stock injectors max out around here. The Rtek may be helping you with the extra duty cycle though.

My experience with the walbro has made me believe it cranks out too much fuel for the stock FPR. CHeck what your fuel pressure is.

Right now my car is running 50-55 psi at idle and is doing 11.00 AFR's idle. I'll be checking the load AFR's this weekend.

SwooshMan

This is almost off topic but i recently did a turbo swap as well and went microtech. I'm running the base map currently and even cruising at 80 mph in 5th for extended periods of time i only get to about 620c. I am finally getting ahold of a w/b this weekend so i'll know for sure but from what you've already said my egt's are way freakin low. My greddy gauge is like 4 inches from the turbo outlet. I'm gettin' about 13 miles to the gallon. My car is basically stock besides whats in the sig. The injectors have been professionally cleaned btw.

RETed

Yeah, you're running way too rich.
Jack the fuel map down until you start hitting at least 750C to 800C.
For off-boost fuel maps, jack the fuel down until it starts to hesitate - you'll feel it.
Then adjust the fuel back up a little just so you can live with it.
This is basically how I adjust Haltech fuel maps on cruise.
Don't worry about detonation or hurting your engine - detonation can only kill the engine while under load.
Since you're not under heavy load, lean will just hesitate the engine.



-Ted

jon88se

I did a third gear run once and the boost hit a max of 1 bar, I lifted off around 5K, 15 psi is way too much. The EGT's maxed on that run @ 640. On 1st to second gear runs to sixty, the EGT's just stay planted @ 620 during 2nd gear which has more load. The car will make .8 bar (just under 12 psi) in 2nd gear as a max until the boost falls off by redline so I'm not lading the car @ 12 psi the entire time, maybe for a second or two. 12 psi with the GReddy FMIC, walbro and the rtek doesn't bother me. Above that I'd be concerned. Remember, @ 10 psi the car STARTs running leaner than stock. Stock is very rich and my car has some support in fuel/timing.

On 60 mph cruise I'm only reading like 600 on the EGT gauge. Maybe my O2 sensor is shot?

RETed

Wow, those are low numbers.
Do you have an AFR gauge or a wide-band handy?

I wouldn't worry about the EGT's until they start getting close to 800C.

Right now everything sounds fine, if not a little rich...

Do you have a dyno local to you?


-Ted

jon88se

Yep, a whole bunch. But I still have that over-boost problem, even with the ported wastegate so I'm not sure if I should be maing WOT runs on a dyno. I'm thinking about driving the car as is for a bit and getting an S5 wastegate, port it and toss on my GReddy Profec B spec II. The S5 gate is supposed to be far better @ boost control correct?

RETed

Yeah, S5 has better WG.
I would still try to hold 3rd gear.
I think you got enough fuel to handle the boost creep.
If anything, you need to lean it out a bit to get back some lost power.

Have you pulled your spark plugs?
Are they all black?
If so, you're running rich still yet.


-Ted

Icemark

Title edited to remove the members name... if you want personal attention, PM or email that person.

gugge

did you remove the restrictor pil in the vac lines to the clock that controlls the WG ?
I did by misstake and got some wierd boost spiking and stuff ..

/bo

jon88se

Would a lack of a restrictor pill make that much of a difference? Where on the vac line is it located and if I'm missing one how would I get it?

Icemark, sorry about the title

jon88se

Will an S5 wastegate bolt on to an S4 turbo?

Ok after some searching on the restrictor pill I found out that it prevents pre-mature fuel cut from the pressure sensor as well as helping prevent boost spikes. If I don't have a pill in the vacuum line to the pressure sensor, would this help out significantly in the boost creep department. I know my wastegate is ported, I just don't know how much. Also, how far down the line should the pill be placed from the point at which the vacuum hose connects to the pressure sensor?

gugge

i got some bad-*** pulsation in my boost and boost spikes when comming into load when i skipped the pill .. but you describe boost creep, and thats something ells. and those when away when i clamped the vac line

/bo

RETed

Um, the wastegate is integrated onto the turbine housing.
Yes, technically, you can swap the turbine housing (with integrated wastegate) and wastegate actuator onto the S4 Zenki turbo.

The center section and compressor housings are identical.


-Ted