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ARP wheel studs fc, the right kinds to get posted

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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 06:54 PM
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ARP wheel studs fc, the right kinds to get posted

so i was looking around at every post that anyone made abotu wheel studs trying to find the right one to get. most of them said to get the ARP-100-7712. unfortuneatly that was the WRONG one to get. so i have here posted the correct sizes that are suppsed to go into a 2nd gen Rx7 both the 4 lug and the 5 lug, Na and T2.

if you want 2.5" studs click here

if you want 3.25" studs click here

now, whenever anyone wants to know they can just search and this will come up.
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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 07:11 PM
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Have you actually installed these and made sure they are correct? If so, this needs to get archived.
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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 08:05 PM
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if fc3spro.org says it is true it must be true. i talked to teh guys who were goign to install it and both the knurl length and diameter is perfect to what they have. so if the studs come in on thursday i will get them installed and let you all know the outcome. otherwise i will et back to you on tuesday. i bought the 3.250" ones, and i will let you know how it goes.
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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 08:46 PM
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Okay cool, because I REALLY need to replace my wheel studs. PLEASE keep us in the loop on this!

Thanks!
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Old Aug 28, 2006 | 10:26 PM
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I have the 2.5 studs all around my car. Easy job. The studs are the same size for a late chevy and are Rx7's. The 3.5 are an over kill.
Thanks Robert
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 08:23 AM
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ARP-100-7708
Yes, those are the ones that we order, and we know they work.
In fact, those are the very first set of 12mm x 1.5 studs ARP released.
They just happen to work very well with the stock FC rear hubs.

I know ARP has released several more 12mm x 1.5 thread pitch studs.
I think they are for Honda fitments?


-Ted
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 10:14 AM
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got the same ones, works great
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 07:14 PM
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yep fits like a dream
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 10:42 PM
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Why Would You Change Them?
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 12:50 AM
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Several reasons, they're stronger, longer (that means you can run spacers a little more safely, but its better to just get the right offset in the first place) and I'm pretty sure we've all experienced at least one overtightened or loose nut (wobbly wheel) that sheared the threading a little on the stud or got the nut on a little crooked and now have a stuck lugnut.
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 01:51 AM
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in my case it was the wheels. ii am running 17x8+30 Mustang Cobra wheels and the kicker that is getting me are the 245/45 tyres that are on it. because of that i have to run a 10mm spacer (http://www.fighters-garage.com/rx7.html).
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 11:13 PM
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With the 2.5" ones they are much longer in the rear, but not that much longer in the front. The rears require that the hubs be removed to get them in (due to the extra length).
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by rotarydelight
Why Would You Change Them?
I am changing mine because with the wheels I run, I am barely legal for minimum threads in the lug nut per NHRA.
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Old Nov 23, 2006 | 01:21 PM
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I have my BFG 255/50-16 drag radials mounted on 300zx (NA) wheels that are 16x7.5. With the 10mm spacer (which I need for clearance), I only had 8 threads left. With the wheels on, I couldn't even start the lug nut on the threads. Will the 2.5" studs be sufficient or should I get the 3.25" just to be extra paranoid/safe? How long are the stock studs?

This is for my FC
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Old Nov 23, 2006 | 02:15 PM
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The 2.5" long studs are quite a bit longer than stock in the back, but not so much up front. They should be fine for a 10mm spacer.

Getting the studs in the rear requires that the hubs come off.
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Old Nov 23, 2006 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Black91n/a
The 2.5" long studs are quite a bit longer than stock in the back, but not so much up front. They should be fine for a 10mm spacer.

Getting the studs in the rear requires that the hubs come off.
Yeah, it's the "should" that worries me, lol, but Summit isn't going to have the 3.25" in stock until December 1st, so that won't work.

Does anyone happen to know the stock length? As I said, I couldn't even start the lug nut on the stud as it sits now. I've been told I should have at least 3 full turns to even think about driving on it and really 5 to be "safe." I figure 5 turns is about a 1/4 inch or so which in the grand scheme of things seems pretty scary.
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Old Nov 23, 2006 | 05:19 PM
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I found this post on TeamFC3S

Go to the local Napa store and ask for replacement rear studs (M12x1.5x36mm). Then tell them you need the exact same stud, but half an inch longer. They should be able to find the correct ones.

36mm is the length, correct? If so, that's 1.4 inches and the 2.5 inch studs would give me 1.1 more inches, right?
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Old Nov 24, 2006 | 12:08 AM
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Went ahead and ordered the 2.5 inch studs from Summit on Black91n/a's description of them being "quite a bit longer" in the back. What's gay is they charged me a $9.99 handling fee (but the ground shipping was free...)
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Old Nov 24, 2006 | 11:11 AM
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1.1" longer sounds about right. The studs protrude out significantly beyond my open ended wheel nuts, right out to the face of the wheel.
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 05:08 PM
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Thanx for the info guys!! I'll try these ARP-100-7708..

Jay7...
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay7 Nyc
Thanx for the info guys!! I'll try these ARP-100-7708..

Jay7...
They work great. The job was a PITA, but we got it done.
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Old May 4, 2014 | 03:11 AM
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Bringing it back from the dead to ask a question!

If I were to install extended studs now (I'm replacing a bunch of suspension parts including rear wheel bearings), but run stock wheels for a while, would the studs stick out beyond the face of the wheel? Also, what type of lug seat do stock FC wheels use?
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