This is a 13 T S5. I let my buddy drive it and this is what he did. Let me tell you do not let anyone else drive your car even if he is your friend. I think the reason these Apex seals broke is because the engine was fresh re-built and it was not broken in. But in the other hand the damage is not that bad. As you could see the rotor is still good.... no dents no scratches. And the rotor housing is also in good shape. Now thats lucky. I dont really know why though. So question is ... was it because of not braking the engine or other ?

 

Anybody?

 

is he paying for it?

have people sign a waver if they ever drive your car.

 

You know that not a bad idea.

 

Was the engine running stock boost ? I dont think it not being broken in would cause the engine to blow, Ive seen people dragging there car with no break in and they didnt blow their engine.

I think the problem you had was detonation/ping from running too lean from running too much boost and not being tuned properly. Running higher boost you want at least the minimum of a fuel cut defender to prevent fuelcut.

Who did the engine rebuild ? Im guessing they probably used atkins apex seals, because they are not as hard of a seal they will tend to break more easily from detonation (i would think) and when they do break they tend not to cause as much damage than a harder seal like RotaryAviation seals.

 

I can't tell a damn thing from those dark, blurry pictures.

Based on the pattern along the apex seal, I would guess that the side to side clearance was out of spec. But without good pictures it's impossible to say.

Edit...The first picture is very telling even though it is poor. A broken corner like that indicates sudden violent detonation caused by a lean spot.

 

Sorry about the pictures Ill take some new ones.

 

If there is proof that the cause was from the builder I think he should be getting his engine rebuilt for only cost of parts and or shipping , unless he didnt get a warranty for the motor.

Also I edited the 1st pic above so you can see more detail (Aaron Cakes)

 

Yes you might be right about not been properlly tune. That was going to be my next step ..... taking it to a dyno and let them tune it for me. The rebuilt I did my self and I used all stock Mazda parts.

 

You didnt answer my question about boost, how much boost were you running ? Were you running stock boost or higher than stock boost ? Im not sure what stock boost is on s5 is 7.5 Psi so if you were running 10psi then that was definitely a problem.

 

10psi. But Iam running with a Wolf 3D ver 4 .

 

Well no matter if youre using a stock ecu or a haltech, if its not tuned properly you will blow the engine from fuelcut.

Thats a big thing with turbo rx7s, tuning is critical. I wouldnt even boost the car at all unless it was tuned properly, you could theoritcally blow the engine on the first drive after rebuild if it hits boost and isnt tuned correctly, and even if it doesnt then it will be a very short time before it will blow because its garaunteed to fuel cut.

 

NOPE, at least not for a haltech fuel cut is an option not configured by default, and with good (not leaky) injectors haltech fuel cut, and fuel cut based rev limiting is perfectly safe.

your far more likley to blow an engine when using a standalone from improper ign setup (not properly zeroed), or too much advance for the fuel being used.

 

Here are more pictures.