Matlock

I searched and didn't find the info I need. I need to rebuild my transmission on my '86 N/A. Looking through the manual they show a bearing puller. Can a bearing puller of that length be rented? Do the bearings need to be pressed back on? I am plenty capable of doing it but that is the only part that worries me. Any hints or tips from those who have done it would be appreciated. Thanks.

N1XRR

I've helped my friend rebuild his tranny in his 280Z. We had a regular press, but ended up having to take it to work with one of our large press's because the regular one wouldn't do it(the type you can buy a Northern Hydraulics). A tip- find someone who has rebuilt a tranny before to help you!

Matlock

Did the bearings need to be pulled with a puller? The one in the manual looks bigger than the ones I have seen or used. More feedback please! Thanks

Wankel7

Is there a rebuild kit anywhere? Or do you have to go to dealer armed with part numbers?

James

BlackRx7

dude its way cheap to pick one up from a junkyard
I got mine from pick-n-pull no warrenty for $90

BlackSport0187

I'm considering rebuilding mine as well, so any help on this topic is appreciated.

Thanks,
Isaac

jspecracer7

YES, the bearing do have to be pulled with a gear puller....for those of you confused as to how big...we're talking like 2 feet big...

akageals

Pinapple Racing will rebuild the tranny for you if you are interested.

Todd

banzaitoyota

Yep, waiting on mine to get back from pineapple eta 25 july. This is one of those areas where the need for specialized tools outweighs the cost benefit analysis of doing it yourself.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

How much for the rebuild?

banzaitoyota

I believe a stock rebuild with mazda bearings is 750. Mine is running more due to miata gearset install.

akageals

hmmmm....what do the miata gears do for the TII?

88and93

I spoke to Dave at KDRotary concerning this recently. He suggests buying the tool kit from Mazda which lists around $275. After the rebuild sell it here or on fleabay.

Matlock

Ok, so far the best idea is a pick and pull. I have thought about going TII and would pull the whole drivetrain. $750 for a damm rebuild, there site says $395. I have thought about taking it to Pineapple they only are about 75 miles from me, however, I don't like to pay for labor.
For my rebuild I know I am going to have to replace all synchro's and probably a gear or two, definatly 2nd. My understanding is unless the bearing are shot, much like wheel bearings they can be used again.
THe local Mazda Dealer can get me synchro's for $25 a pierce. Gears I am not sure about though, anyone know? I want to do it myself because I would like to see exactly whats wrong, not have someone tell me I need this or that. Are gear pullers rentable, anyone rent one? I will call around tonight.


Update: Checking out a local rental shop (lew rents) they have bearing pullers, and XL jaw type pullers, I think I'll have to take a look. $10.00 a day.

banzaitoyota

The problem with bearings is once you pull them and repress them they are not the same, the tolerences shift around. On submarines you never reused a pulled bearing, even if it was perfect appearing. The reason, they vibrated more and made more noise after reinstallation.

Matlock

Submarines! The manual has tolerences, of course I would not use them again unless they were within spec.
Submarines! Are you in the Navy?

banzaitoyota

WAS, RETIRED A FEW YEARS BACK.
Anyway, Even if a bearing was in tolerence it would still be noisier upon re-installation. I took the sound cuts of various bearings before and after.

The downside of re-using bearings or not using the MAZDA bearings is that it increases the likelyhood of the transmission howling in gear.

Matlock

Thanks banzaitoyota for the heads up. I will find out how much they run when I call mazda. I appreciate the feedback, thats exactly what I was looking for.

Thaniel

I rebuilt my over a year ago. Turned out well. You do need pullers and a large wrench to remove the bearing lock nut. I made some extensions for my puller using flat stock material (the stuff with lots of holes in it) to get the bearings off that are way down the shaft. Reinstalling them was no problem if you warm the bearings first.

Some more info on this thread.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=88064

Thaniel

Forgot to add, the bearings in the transmission are not "mazda" bearings. Most of them are standard SKF or NSK bearings etc. The names of the MFG are stamped in the outer races with the part#'s. Any bearing supplier can get them or match them up. Go to mazda they can get them for you too. Same thing just more $$. Beware of interchanging some of the ones on the main shaft as I had one that wouldn't fit properly because the manufacture made the shoulder of the inner race with a step in it. If you get the exact part # this wouldn't be a problem. You can get the oil seals from a bearing distributor as well.

Matlock

Thank Thaniel. Thanks for the bearing tips. That will help a lot, as I am sure mazda would rape me for $$$. I see it cost you about $300, that was the ball park that I was looking at. Did you need to replace any gears? How much were they? Thanks again!

banzaitoyota

"Forgot to add, the bearings in the transmission are not "mazda" bearings. Most of them are standard SKF or NSK bearings etc. "

Not neccasarily so. Major mfg's will have the bearing co's, Timken, SKF, NSK produce their bearings but to a different quality standard. Case in point. Porsche rear hub bearings, they are stamped with a SKF number, but if you go to the bearing wharehouse and look up that number, it doesn't exist. Its a propriatary part to PORSCHE. I don't know if this is the case with Mazda or not.

But, look at it like this: If you got a problem with a noisey mazda bearing you have recourse. If you have a noisey bearing with a "generic fit bearing" what is your recourse.

In my conversations with Pineapple, He has rebuilt more trannies thatn 98% of us on this forum, he will use non-mazda bearings but he will not guarentee the noise level of the tranny. Remember tolerance stack IS NOT your friend.

There are certain parts where generic "like kind" are acceptable for use. Belts, some hoses etc. Then ther are cases where you don't dare use a like kind.
ie:Thermostats, waterpumps and tranny bearings. As always this is my experience from a 20+ year background in Nuclear Power plant operation, maintenance and design, with collateral duties in Reliability centered maintenance, vibration analysis and oil analysis.

Thaniel

In my trans I did not need to replace any gears. All sycro rings measured within spec and so I just resurfaced them. I did replace the mainshaft cuz some doofus screwed it up removing the lock nut (me).

By the way I wasn't guessing about the bearings as I have already performed the rebuild.

One other tip. Put regular gear lube in the trans for the break in period. Switch to redline later. .