mazda.junkie

Stupid question I know, but there is no substitute for experiance or good advice.
A few weeks ago I replaced the pulse damper on my S4. Drove the car on the parkway about 50 miles, no fuel leakage anymore GREAT! Came home and parked the car, The next morning I get up and decide to drive the 7 since its fixed. Start the car and go from 1st to reverse to back out if the driveway and hear a loud clicking noise coming from the trans. With the clutch pedal depressed the noise is noticeable, but once you release the clutch the noise stops. It almost sounds as if one of the springs on the plate has broken. The car drives fine, and doesnt slip. However if you decelerate above 4000rpm in any gear it vibrates. I have obviously stop driving the car and purchased an OEM Clutch kit to install since its not very modified and I understand that the original clutch is sufficiant, and also has lifetime warranty. Anyways this morning I decide that today is the day I will start on getting the trans out. Start the car to pull it up on ramps and with the car in first gear and the clutch pedal depressed, the car starts moving a little bit with the clutch pushed in. I take the car out of gear and now it wont go into gear unless the car is off. Really sounded bad before I got the car out of gear. The clutch pedal feels very light now. Anyways, has anyone had a similar issue with there clutch? Also I want to replace the rear seal and also my shifter is starting to get that somewhat sloppy feeling these day especially after the weekend of the DGRR. So questions.... In addition to replacing the rear seal, clutch,pressure plate and TOB what else should I do while im there and can I get the parts to make the shifter more solid and direct from MAZDA or should I put a Miata shifter and componants in?

Project84

Replace the bearing and seal inside the rear end of the crank shaft (can't think of the name of it at the moment). Its can be hard to get out without the right size bearing puller.

Not sure what to tell you about the shifter. I know there are springs and bushings in the shift tower under the stick but I've never replaced them. Mine has broken bushings and the shifter still works it just doesn't have that spring tension to it.

BASTARD

iTrader: (4)

there are a few reasons why your clutch pedal may feel wierd... It could be the clutch slave is bad and needs replacing, the clutch master could be bad and needs replacing or it could be the clutch fork is bent or the pivot ball is broken... these are all parts that should be inspected and replaced if bad or wornout...

you should have the flywheel resurfaced... it will be fun to remove the flywheel nut if you have never done it before...

more then likely the slopy shifting can all be taken care of while the trans is in or out... if you have the transmission that has the bushing down inside the shift linkage "cup" then just buy a new bushing


also, is there a reason to replace the rear main seal?

BASTARD

iTrader: (4)

pilot bearing

mazda.junkie

Thanks, I think Ill replace as much as I can while im there. As for the shifter, your sounds similar to what mines doing. The only real problem is going from 5th to 4th
quickly.

mazda.junkie

Its not a hydraulic issue I dont think, I think the clutch or pressure plate has completely failed and is failing to release ,because it drove fine with the exception of the noise coming from the clutch. And theres not really any leaks from rear main I just though that since Im goint to have the flywheel of that I might be wise to replace. Oh when the slave went out about 2 years ago the pedal stayed on the floor. fork may be bent though

Project84

Thats it!

SmogSUX

iTrader: (12)

+1 for the pivot ball if your car won't go into gear when the car is on. Cheap pos break all the time...

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

+1

answer?

mazda.junkie

Is this going to be a problem to get to, and could it have done any major damage?
It sounded like hell before I turned the car off.

Razmus

iTrader: (2)

hahaha LOADS of fun

mazda.junkie

Hell I dont know, its not really leaking but I would hate to have to take the trans out 5000 miles later because it started leaking. And I would say its the original seal. Apparently I need a new pilot bearing now.

Project84

The pilot bearing and its seal is cheap. The bearing usually comes with what ever clutch kit you buy if the kit was specific to RX-7s. The seal is not always included. I get the seal from my local Mazda dealer. Last time I bought one, it was like $5 if that. I don't remember the bearing costing much more than that. I think the pilot bearing is around $7.00 at www.mazdatrix.com

As far as the rear seal, you are welcomed to change it. I recommend an impact gun to get the nut off the flywheel. Its a big 54mm nut. I bought a 2-1/8" socket which is 54mm (or close enough that it doesn't damage the socket or nut after repeated uses). The rear seal is a lot thicker than many other vehicles and unless its torn, dry rotted and/or leaking, I wouldn't replace it during a clutch change, but its your car and you are the one there looking at the parts in front of you and its your judgement call on that.