I appear to have a bit of a header leak. I damaged the engine by attempting to loosen the nuts on the studs when the engine was too hot, and actually pulled the studs out! D'oh!! I had heli-coils installed and bolted the header to the block, but it seems that it is still not wuite right. I found some industrial epoxy that has a temp rating of 406 degrees celcius, but I cannot buy it. ANyone know of a commerical epxoy that I could use as a seal??

 

I tried exhaust repair, but it fried off.

 

Pull it off again, take it to a shop, and have it welded. Other than the time to pull it off again it might cost you a whole $20.

 

se if you have broken the gasket, if not try JB weld.

 

Yeah the JB weld should work. Thats how we fixed my old exhaust.
Charles

 

JB Weld it is. I bought some, but was not sure if I should try it. Thanks guys!!

 

JB Kwik sets up much much faster than regular JB Weld. I used some to fix my Protege's gas tank, and it set up in about 15 minutes.

 

Thanks Felix!!

 

Felix-

I'll back you up on the JB Kwik. Same stuff as JB Weld... but sets up much faster. Amazing stuff.

Fixed a leaky oil pan on my friends 2001 Jetta. Dingbat wife nailed the oil pan on an inclined driveway it scraped away the cast aluminum pan where a small hole was created and the oil weeped out continuously. New pan $140..... JB Kwik $4.

I would suggest getting it welded as temps get very hot there.... especially on a rotary.


GNX7

 

I don't understand what you're trying to do.
Are you trying to keep the stud from pulling out?
NO commercially available expoy is going to stand up to that kinda heat.&nbsp ~400&#176C is what the EGT sees at IDLE - one quick romp to WOT, and it'll break down.&nbsp One thing epoxy isn't resistant to is heat.&nbsp If you need something taken care of under high heat conditions, it's called a WELD.


-Ted

 

As an airraft mechanic i use JB weld on a lot of things, like exhaust flanges and such works really good

 

No, the new bolts are in, and the header is on. i just seem to have a chronic leak. I was under the impression you can't weld aluminum to steel (block to header) so I need somethin to seal around the header.

 

You need a new gasket.&nbsp Don't by trying to use epoxy to seal mating flanges - that's a very bad way of doing things.



-Ted

 

No offense Ted, but I already said that I installed a new gasket.

 

Sorry man, even if the epoxy seals it, it won't last more than a few days...
Beleive me, I've been there.
The ONLY way to fix a leak around the header like that is by machining or welding. Fixing the actual problem.

Where is it actually leaking from?? Top, bottom, where??

I'm not being insulting here, but I hope your header doesn't have a aux port backpressure port that's wide open..

Man, if the JB kwik actually holds, I will use it for EVERYTHING!

My diagnosis is that you rheader flang is warped.
You actually drove it with a few studs out right?? That's enough to warp the flange right out... I needed mine machined. Cost? 40 bucks Canadian.
Don't bandaid.... Trust me, you'll thank yourself for saving all the headaches!
Good luck.

 

Take off the Header, Check the flange for straightness. Check the ports for straightness. If the flange is warped, either machine it or have a new flange welded on.

I dont get it, people spend a bunch of money on quality parts ,then when they have a fit-up or installation problem they want the cheap fix (which wont last long.

 

Well, the flange is good. We are talking about a TINY leak (if any). I will pull it off again and see if the flange has somehow warped. banzai, I am not trying to be cheap. I am just checking my options!!!

 

If your not talking about a crack in the manifold, then yes you either have something warped, mis-aligned, or the new gasket popped out of place.

By the way, JB-Weld's specs are only for temps up to 500 degress. JB-Quick is only for temps up to 300 degress. Neither one of them will hold up on an exhaust manifold for long.

Later.

 

No, nothing is warped, and the gasket is BRAND NEW. I will figure it out!!! Thanks guys.

 

Are sure there is a actually a leak? I know my Paceshitter header is thinwalled, and you can actually hear the exhuast ring a tiny bit from inside the tubes...

Exhaust leaks can sometimes be hard to locate.... it could be farther down at the cat flange maybe?

Well, assuming there is a leak around it-
I would definately pull the header off very carefully, and examine the gasket without rubbing it or anything... the reason for this is, if it's been leaking for a few days, you will see carbon traces where the leak is, and it'll give you an idea on what side it's on, and what to do...

I was under the impression that before you wanted to put the sealant AROUND the flange... no good- it will blow off, since the heat degreades it's adhesion. If, at this point you find a low spot on the flange, or it leaking, can can smear muffler cement on the gasket to thicken it up, then quickly bolt it back onto the engine. Since the cement is non-load bearing, and it pretty much stuck in there in a thin layer, it won't go anywhere if it isn't too thick.

 

Well, I actually now think it is just b/c the header has thinner walls. It is a RB header. I can't smell exhaust in the engine or anything, just from the muffler when I get under it. I can only hear the header when I have the hood up. I think it is just me being silly-paranoid again!! There is no loss of power (just torque) so I think it all good!! Thanks Bambam!!

 

No problem.. If you still aren't sure, hook your airpump up to your intake, and it'll solve your problems- since you will be able to accelerate faster than the sound of the exhaust leak!!

 

Oh free boost!!