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Anyone have a water jacket crack?

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Old 11-14-05, 10:55 AM
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Anyone have a water jacket crack?

On 1985 and earlier 13B's The coolant O-Ring groove is located on the aluminiums.

On 1986 and later, the groove is on the irons.

I've heard that one wall of the groove on the irons is prone to cracking, and that the aluminium walls are a little more flexible and therefore don't crack.

Has this happened to anyone? Is it a frequent problem? What causes it?
Old 11-14-05, 10:57 AM
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my old motor had a crack. it was overheated..
Old 11-14-05, 11:17 AM
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I've seen one of those It was cause by Little Jimmy ******** using plain water and no anti-freeze. In other words *corrosion*. See the Mazdatrix FAQ page for more information.
Old 11-14-05, 11:19 AM
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Had it on my center plate, the previous owner overheated it bad. replaced it with a t2 centerplate
Old 11-14-05, 11:30 AM
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well mine really wasnt a crack....more like a huge piece broke off or corroded off.
Old 11-14-05, 11:36 AM
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In my experience its damn common with T2 motors on the front iron.
Old 11-14-05, 01:18 PM
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it's damn common on all S4 and on irons.
Old 11-14-05, 07:52 PM
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definately a common problem
i have had 2-3 motors that had to be rebuilt due to this
Old 11-22-05, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
I've seen one of those It was cause by Little Jimmy ******** using plain water and no anti-freeze. In other words *corrosion*. See the Mazdatrix FAQ page for more information.
Which FAQ page? There's several tidbits of information scattered on their site, but they're all spread around in various sections. Could you link me please?
Old 11-22-05, 08:11 AM
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Aluminum ends up being the sacraficial "anode".
So guess which one fails more often?
Mazda did the right thing to move the groove to the steel side.


-Ted
Old 11-22-05, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Pele
Which FAQ page? There's several tidbits of information scattered on their site, but they're all spread around in various sections. Could you link me please?
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/sidehsgs.htm
Old 11-22-05, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by crashdummy
well mine really wasnt a crack....more like a huge piece broke off or corroded off.

Me too!!!

I mean it was like 1.5 centimeters that disappeared... and then the O'Ring kinda sloughed in upon itself, like two worms *******!!!!

Actually, i've seen it SEVERAL times in the exact same place with the exact same effects.. boiling coolant after you shut the car off Car hard as hell to start after it sits for about ten minutes, if it won't start, gotta change the plugs cause they're SHOT. But.. No white smoke.. just a very faint smell of freeze in the exhaust. Think it's because this "Crack" happens at the power stroke area of the housing.
Old 11-22-05, 02:17 PM
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those cracks / failures are usually only reason for NA FC's here in Europe to die, seen plenty of them and had few of plates fixed and used them again with no problems
Old 11-25-05, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by RETed
Aluminum ends up being the sacraficial "anode".
So guess which one fails more often?
Mazda did the right thing to move the groove to the steel side.


-Ted
How so? The Mazdatrix page says this problem only occurs on 1986 and later engines.

Although the electrolysis bit does kinda irk me. It's why I'm swapping my brass 1st gen radiator out for an aluminum 2nd gen one.

What'd happen if you shoved a thing of Zinc in one of the end tanks? Zinc could be the sacrificial anode.
Old 11-25-05, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Pele
What'd happen if you shoved a thing of Zinc in one of the end tanks? Zinc could be the sacrificial anode.
Interesting idea.
In fact, I saw some special radiator cap that had a hunk of zinc in it that supposed to do just that...
I guess it didn't work, cause I don't hear of it anymore.


-Ted
Old 11-25-05, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by RETed
Interesting idea.
In fact, I saw some special radiator cap that had a hunk of zinc in it that supposed to do just that...
I guess it didn't work, cause I don't hear of it anymore.


-Ted
or maby it worked so well, they pulled them off the shelf because no one needed repairs anymore, and the mechanics dident like that </consipracy theory>
Old 02-11-06, 05:48 AM
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So is the conclusion that the irons were made of inferior metal? Or is it just the corrosion from water that could damage any year or model iron?
Old 02-11-06, 06:19 AM
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We see this all the time, on S4 and S5 N/A front irons. failure pics http://www.banzairacing.net/winnie_breakdown_02-05.htm
Most of the time it shows up on cars that have low mileage with the original engine, meaning that the coolant has sat in the engine for long periods of time without moving. We have also seen it on TII and FD rear irons.
Old 02-11-06, 08:45 AM
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Arrow

Originally Posted by BlueTII
We see this all the time, on S4 and S5 N/A front irons. failure pics http://www.banzairacing.net/winnie_breakdown_02-05.htm
Most of the time it shows up on cars that have low mileage with the original engine, meaning that the coolant has sat in the engine for long periods of time without moving. We have also seen it on TII and FD rear irons.
You just described my old fc exactly. 1986 luxury with only 78,000 miles, sat for like 3 years. Huge chunk of the water jacket just GONE.
Old 02-11-06, 11:58 AM
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i've seen them on all irons in all areas. it is due to improper chucking during the machining process and variances in castings, if you look at all irons the wall thickness is not symmetrical all the way around and some walls are very thin, these thin walls are often what breaks and the iron that i have seen break more often than any else is the center iron because it has 2 sealing faces hence double the chance to break than the front and rear. this is backed up by the reason i can hardly keep middle irons in stock.
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