Anyone have all the part list for a Turbo II bought a conversion gone bad car
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Anyone have all the part list for a Turbo II bought a conversion gone bad car
Just got another 1987 Turbo II RX7 which was converted from N/A to Turbo does anyone know the complete parts list for this car. Such as what boost sensor goes in and what injector resistors and any other major electronic parts that will make the car run bad. Right now the car runs and breaks up sometimes and just i hear backfiring from the exhaust. Car only hits 5psi max and sometimes studders when i try to accelerate. So any help woud be appreciated Also anyway to check the wiring harness if its a turbo one or a non turbo because there are so many spliced wires i believe its a non turbo one and i just wanted to make sure befor ei go and buy another one
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has a racing beat 3" exhaust 3" Downpipe stock turbo Venom 550cc injectors street port motor K&N Filter. Sometimes it studders at completely different RPM Ranges but yea usualy around 3500RPM. Also when i drive the car flames come out of the exhaust all the time and when i rev the car flames come out of the exhaust and the fumes smell super rich of gasoline
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i have a N318 Boost Pressure Sensor My Idle Adjust Rich or Lean Plug is N326 13 790B
I have a Metal Resisotor for the Injectors it is ID 079960-0150 and my Lead Coil is N327 18 100 and my Trail Coil is N326 18 100A Anything wrong with this? i jsut dont know why the car wont start with the N332 ECU and it starts no problem with the N327 ECU. Anyone know how to recognize which ECU you have by taking it apart? because im thinking the guy i bought it from switched the top covers maybe
I have a Metal Resisotor for the Injectors it is ID 079960-0150 and my Lead Coil is N327 18 100 and my Trail Coil is N326 18 100A Anything wrong with this? i jsut dont know why the car wont start with the N332 ECU and it starts no problem with the N327 ECU. Anyone know how to recognize which ECU you have by taking it apart? because im thinking the guy i bought it from switched the top covers maybe
#6
ive done quite a few conversions know you need 1-n318 pressure sensor,2-mass air metre can be na/or t2,3-t2 harness the passanger side harness, now when you turn the key on you will see the idiot lights light up, you have to look at a na harness and follow the wires , the same with the temp sensor it will say hot all the time just look at the na harness and you will know what i mean know your studder make sure under the plenum the ground wires for the injectors are grounded or make sure your pressure sensor hoses are hooked up right fsm pics make sure you have the right injectors in low ohm fr 87 high for 89
#7
I break Diff mounts
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The main pieces are A TII harness/ECU/Boost sensor.
The injectors and other parts should come with a TII block.
My car had terrible stuttering. I added in a ground wire from the boost sensor to the strut tower and it's almost completely gone now. It's a common problem on the S4's and I think there was a service bulletin on it.
The injectors and other parts should come with a TII block.
My car had terrible stuttering. I added in a ground wire from the boost sensor to the strut tower and it's almost completely gone now. It's a common problem on the S4's and I think there was a service bulletin on it.
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also anyone know why i would get 10MPG with this car anyway to get better gas milage? also why wont the car start with the N332 ECU but starts good with the N327? Tomorrow im going to add some ground wires
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Originally Posted by dennis blackstone
ive done quite a few conversions know you need 1-n318 pressure sensor,2-mass air metre can be na/or t2,3-t2 harness the passanger side harness, now when you turn the key on you will see the idiot lights light up, you have to look at a na harness and follow the wires , the same with the temp sensor it will say hot all the time just look at the na harness and you will know what i mean know your studder make sure under the plenum the ground wires for the injectors are grounded or make sure your pressure sensor hoses are hooked up right fsm pics make sure you have the right injectors in low ohm fr 87 high for 89
My 2 Idiot light are on Check Coolant and i Think Fan Light they are right next to eachother on the left side
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Originally Posted by Digi7ech
The main pieces are A TII harness/ECU/Boost sensor.
The injectors and other parts should come with a TII block.
My car had terrible stuttering. I added in a ground wire from the boost sensor to the strut tower and it's almost completely gone now. It's a common problem on the S4's and I think there was a service bulletin on it.
The injectors and other parts should come with a TII block.
My car had terrible stuttering. I added in a ground wire from the boost sensor to the strut tower and it's almost completely gone now. It's a common problem on the S4's and I think there was a service bulletin on it.
#11
if your add coolant light is on check the sensor to the radiator is hooked up and that you have it has been bled,just check that you have all your ground wires in tack even the one on the fire wall check wireing for injectors and that you have the right injectors
#12
I break Diff mounts
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Originally Posted by 87RX7TurboII
which boost sensor and how can you ground the boost snensor do you mean from the boost sensor harness?
NA's only read vacuum while turbo reads both positive and negative pressure.
You just tee in an extra ground wire from the stock harness so it also grounds at the strut tower instead of through the old harness.
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Originally Posted by Digi7ech
The boost sensor on the passenger strut tower.
NA's only read vacuum while turbo reads both positive and negative pressure.
You just tee in an extra ground wire from the stock harness so it also grounds at the strut tower instead of through the old harness.
NA's only read vacuum while turbo reads both positive and negative pressure.
You just tee in an extra ground wire from the stock harness so it also grounds at the strut tower instead of through the old harness.
alright i will do that tomorrow today i was doing so much styff around the car i totaly forgot.
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alright i ran a lot of new ground wires for the car today also i took the intake manifold off and took some pics. And somehow the person before me had spliced the injector wires for some reason and just wound them together and covered them up in electric tape would this effect the injectors in anyway? The top injector clips are tan and the bottom are red. As soon as i hit 2100RPM the car makes poping noises like its misfiring and doesnt want to make any boost. At the same time its when the stock boost presure on the cluster goes to 0 and past it Any help would be greatly appreciated im trying to make this run good so i can drive it everyday
Where is this line supposed to be connected to? The Black Vacuum hose ont he right side
also what about these 2 vaccum lines on this side where are they supposed to lead to?
here is a pic of the wire splie for the boost sensor when i connected it to the external ground
Where is this line supposed to be connected to? The Black Vacuum hose ont he right side
also what about these 2 vaccum lines on this side where are they supposed to lead to?
here is a pic of the wire splie for the boost sensor when i connected it to the external ground
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i have low impotence injectors with the notch on the center of the injector the bottom injecetctos plugs had the noth on the right side but they were broken anyways so i just put them on the injector and secured them. Would the plugs matter and would they make a car act like this hesitate under boost and all? so how do i go on a fix this and how do i find out if if i have a high impotence resistor in place? Do i jsut find new injector harness and splice in a new one?
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backfiring... flames out of the exhaust. make sure your timing is right. i had my wolf3d ems and when the timing was WAY retarded underboost i had 0 power underboost and i had massive flames out of the rear. and make sure your boost sensor is working.
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