clokker

iTrader: (2)

No, you don't want to do that.
Every FC has the wiring for the system, you can just unplug yours and have dangling connectors like the rest of us.
Otherwise, prepare to remove the entire chassis harness because the switch is in the center console, the computer is in the spare tire well and control wires go to all four corners of the car.
Removing "all traces" would be stupidly extensive.

jscrib87

ok.thanks for the input.i figured it would be pretty extensive,but i figured if i was gonna tear into my interior,i may as well take all of it out..if theres no point tho,ill just let it dangle.thanks clokker and john

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Trying to extract all of the wiring for the AAS system would mean disassembling the entire driver's side of the interior as nearly everything runs through Connector FR-01 except the rear actuators' signals. The switch itself is R-06, which runs through FR-01 as well. Those are S4 connector names, but would most likely be the same for S5.

The quick & dirty way would be to de-pin the front actuators at FR-01 (on the Front Harness side) and the rear ones at R-07 (AAS CPU Connector). Might come in handy to leave the power wires in place for other ignition-switched items. They are Black/Red.

Front actuators signal wires:
White/Red
White/Blue
White/Black

Rear actuator signal wires:
Yellow/Red
Yellow/Green
Yellow/Blue

jscrib87

ok,sick.im eventually gonna take out all of my interior,this is when ill remove it all.thanks for all this info.it will be alot of help soon!!

clokker

iTrader: (2)

All that "extra" wiring can be very handy.
I used the AAS harness and switch as a manual override to the efan's low speed relay. Should the fan trigger fail, I can use the console mounted switch to activate the fan.
Which I thought was pretty ****** clever.

jscrib87

dude,that is genius!i was just askin akagis about his efan and if it effectively cools the car like the stock shrouds...i hate the shroud setup,and if the efan works great,im gonna go with it.so i may keep that wiring in and do what you have done

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Just like Clokkar, my fan setup will have a manual override but not using the stock AAS switches as I'm running a Taurus Fan. Will have to build a custom switch panel to fit the location but that should be cake to do using the AAS switches as a template. That panel will house the Sequential/Non-Sequential Turbo switch, Low and High-speed fan overrides and still have space for one more switch.

Manual override switches should be wired parallel to the thermoswitch it is supposed to override. Mine are on the ground side of the circuit

The 2-speed Taurus fan is downright EVIL in how much air it can move. On the stock radiator, the fan's shroud fits pretty well and covers almost all of the core area. My car has a large gap at the top thanks to the 26x19 Jegs double pass radiator. Easy fix with some sheet metal though.

Red91NA

i figure my first REAL post (#11) should be a noob one
my ride seems to be amazing with the aas. And i know all the actuators work.. but the look of the car is in complete off-road status.(beat up body doesnt help)... I think i might just cut the springs till the 1st.... not use to this soft of a ride.

just wanted to see how bad/different it is removing than the stock, but from what yall have said seems pretty normal.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Even cars without AAS still have the wiring in it.
take the actuators out,take the switch out and live with a pound of wiring left on the car.You don't have to remove the shocks.
Unless you plan to switch them.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

That is pretty clever. I considered using the AAS console switch for my secondary headlights for my custom headlight set-up on my FC2000 bumper. Instead I removed the cruise control arm that wasn't being used, and installed a small switch there. Looks pretty clean. I'm wondering what to use the old AAS console switch for now... I plan to go e-fan... I'll consider this. Thanks clokker.

NCross

iTrader: (18)

Just buy new struts and springs. Removing AAS also benefits you with 10 pounds or so of weight reduction. The struts are heavier and the motors weigh half a pound or so each. Plus you can remove the computer in the spare tire well.

Traditional suspension is more predictable and simpler.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

In the back of the car- by the spare tire well- is where the AAS computer would have been and you'll have the connector for it tied back onto the harness (probably with blue tape). Four of these wires go to the strut/shock towers (one to each) and one goes up to the stock console switch. I didn't pay attention to the others. The console switch, when engaged, goes to ground. If you jumper the switch to any of the strut wires (whichever is convenient for the project you're attempting), you have a switched ground controlled from the cabin.
Use it to ground a relay and you can trigger lights, fans...whatever strikes your fancy.
It'd even make a pretty stealthy fuel pump cut if you wanted.

You're welcome.