anyone drifting their fc's?
06-25-06, 02:18 PM
#76
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Originally Posted by SimplyComplex
Okay, so how is it possible for someone to induce slide at 30mph, get extremely sideways through a 90 degree turn, and NOT have the front wheels slide? I'm not doing ******* donuts. I'm not powersliding. I assume you don't actually drift yourself. Ask any actual drifter, not some ******* kid in a 240, who doesn't know **** about ****, if drifting is possible at 30mph. You don't have to be going an insanely fast speed to drift. I'm not some dumb little kid who went out and saw tokyo drift and thinks he knows everything. Just because I don't have 1000+ posts on a forum doesn't mean I'm ignorant to this aspect. It means I'm out driving and practicing.
How old are you?
-Ted
06-25-06, 03:47 PM
#77
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Originally Posted by D Walker
You know, you have a decent point, but take it further and rather than drift in an industrial area where you could take out a delivery driver getting an early start, drive another 1/2 hour to the middle of nowhere- farm country, the mountains, desert, etc and drift there. I kinda know the sac area and it wouldnt take much at to get far far away from the population. THATS what the Japanese drifters did- they learned in the mountains where there is virtually no traffic, especially late at night. What burns my *** is the lazy ******* who bitch about paying 75 bucks for a track day but wont drive 45minutes out into the middle of nowhere. Instead they burn around town, thinking theres no traffic at two AM and take out a guy working overtime to feed his family.
If your going to "practice" at least get away from population, use spotters and radios, and try not to kill anyone.
If your going to "practice" at least get away from population, use spotters and radios, and try not to kill anyone.
06-25-06, 05:32 PM
#78
pfft.
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From formulad.com. Clutch kick, power over, and shift-lock are what applies to what I do on the street. If the homepage of a drifting circuit is wrong, I'll go ahead and shoot myself. Maybe I didn't explain what I was doing properly, but it IS drifting.
DRIFT TECHNIQUES
* Kansei Drift is performed at race speeds when, upon entering a high speed corner, a driver lifts his foot off the throttle to induce a mild over steer and then balances the drift through steering and throttle motions. Note that the car used for this style of drift should be a neutral balanced car so that the over steer will induce itself. If the car plows through any turn the technique will not work.
* Braking drift is performed by tail braking into a corner, resulting in loss of grip and then balanced through steering and throttle motions. Note that this is mainly for medium to low speed corners.
* Faint Drift is performed by rocking the car towards the outside of a turn and then using the rebound of grip to throw the car into the normal cornering direction. This is a rally racing technique used to change vehicle attitudes during cornering, mainly on tight mountain corners.
* Clutch Kick is performed by depressing the clutch pedal on approach or during a mild drift, then popping the clutch to give a sudden jolt through the driveline to upset rear traction.
* Shift Lock is performed by letting the revs drop on downshift into a corner and then releasing the clutch to put stress on the driveline to slow the rear tires, inducing an over steer. This is similar to pulling the E-brake through a turn and should be performed on wet surfaces to minimize damage to the driveline.
* E-Brake Drift is a very basic technique in which the driver pulls the E-Brake (emergency-brake) to induce rear traction loss and balances the drift through steering and throttle play. Note that this can also be used to correct errors or fine tune drift angles.
* Dirt Drop Drift is performed by dropping the rear tires off the road into the dirt to maintain or gain drift angle without losing power or speed and to set up for the next turn. Note that this technique is very useful for low horsepower cars.
* Jump Drift is a technique in which the rear tire on the inside of a turn or apex is bounced over a curb to lose traction resulting in over steer.
* Long Slide Drift is performed by pulling the E-brake through a straight to start a high angle drift and to holding this to set up for the turn ahead. Note that this can only be done at high speed.
* Swaying Drift is a slow side-to-side, faint-like drift where the rear end sways back and forth down a straight.
* FF Drift or front wheel drive drift is a technique in which the E-brake as well as steering and braking techniques are used to balance the car through a corner. Note that the E-brake is the main technique used to balance the drift.
* Power Over is performed when entering a corner and using full throttle to produce heavy over.
DRIFT TECHNIQUES
* Kansei Drift is performed at race speeds when, upon entering a high speed corner, a driver lifts his foot off the throttle to induce a mild over steer and then balances the drift through steering and throttle motions. Note that the car used for this style of drift should be a neutral balanced car so that the over steer will induce itself. If the car plows through any turn the technique will not work.
* Braking drift is performed by tail braking into a corner, resulting in loss of grip and then balanced through steering and throttle motions. Note that this is mainly for medium to low speed corners.
* Faint Drift is performed by rocking the car towards the outside of a turn and then using the rebound of grip to throw the car into the normal cornering direction. This is a rally racing technique used to change vehicle attitudes during cornering, mainly on tight mountain corners.
* Clutch Kick is performed by depressing the clutch pedal on approach or during a mild drift, then popping the clutch to give a sudden jolt through the driveline to upset rear traction.
* Shift Lock is performed by letting the revs drop on downshift into a corner and then releasing the clutch to put stress on the driveline to slow the rear tires, inducing an over steer. This is similar to pulling the E-brake through a turn and should be performed on wet surfaces to minimize damage to the driveline.
* E-Brake Drift is a very basic technique in which the driver pulls the E-Brake (emergency-brake) to induce rear traction loss and balances the drift through steering and throttle play. Note that this can also be used to correct errors or fine tune drift angles.
* Dirt Drop Drift is performed by dropping the rear tires off the road into the dirt to maintain or gain drift angle without losing power or speed and to set up for the next turn. Note that this technique is very useful for low horsepower cars.
* Jump Drift is a technique in which the rear tire on the inside of a turn or apex is bounced over a curb to lose traction resulting in over steer.
* Long Slide Drift is performed by pulling the E-brake through a straight to start a high angle drift and to holding this to set up for the turn ahead. Note that this can only be done at high speed.
* Swaying Drift is a slow side-to-side, faint-like drift where the rear end sways back and forth down a straight.
* FF Drift or front wheel drive drift is a technique in which the E-brake as well as steering and braking techniques are used to balance the car through a corner. Note that the E-brake is the main technique used to balance the drift.
* Power Over is performed when entering a corner and using full throttle to produce heavy over.
06-25-06, 06:53 PM
#79
And the Revolution...
You seriously think that inducing drift using dirt on the side of the ******* road is practicing drifting??? Or that Jump drifting is even remotely smart??? And Power Over is not entering the corner its exiting the corner under heavy throttle. Those are some of the worst definitions I've ever read. SWAYING DRIFT???? Isn't that choku-dori? WOW. Don't believe everything you read on the internet.
06-25-06, 10:51 PM
#81
man i learned how to drift here in japan and it took me almost 6 weeks to master a drift perfectly..and through all that practice my poor 180sx sufferd a lot of body work and tire wear...drifting is all about practice...anyone can slide a car...but running your same lines over and over again takes practice
i can tell you now i am pretty well ....but i still dont trust myself doing it in a parking lot or the streets...thats why we are going to have the problems with the cops soon...
oh drifting for 3 seconds on a 90 degree corner is not drifting thats called let lose ...try 50-60mph on a 200 foot mountain at 2:00am
i can tell you now i am pretty well ....but i still dont trust myself doing it in a parking lot or the streets...thats why we are going to have the problems with the cops soon...
oh drifting for 3 seconds on a 90 degree corner is not drifting thats called let lose ...try 50-60mph on a 200 foot mountain at 2:00am
07-12-06, 02:15 AM
#83
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hi all i'm just getting into the drift thing i moved from CA (used to do the grip thing a lot) now i'm in OKC and there is really nothing around here or close by so i decided i give drift a try well my question is what sould i be worried about hurting the most on my fc? my clutch is going out so going to try the clutch kick couple of times i can perfom trail braking learned it from the grip days and i will also try the e-brake my car is a 91 N/A with light weight flywheel, racing clutch, engine is street ported, koyo radiator, intake and straight exhuast system.
07-12-06, 02:29 AM
#86
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Originally Posted by SimplyComplex
From formulad.com. Clutch kick, power over, and shift-lock are what applies to what I do on the street. If the homepage of a drifting circuit is wrong, I'll go ahead and shoot myself. Maybe I didn't explain what I was doing properly, but it IS drifting.
DRIFT TECHNIQUES
* Kansei Drift is performed at race speeds when, upon entering a high speed corner, a driver lifts his foot off the throttle to induce a mild over steer and then balances the drift through steering and throttle motions. Note that the car used for this style of drift should be a neutral balanced car so that the over steer will induce itself. If the car plows through any turn the technique will not work.
* Braking drift is performed by tail braking into a corner, resulting in loss of grip and then balanced through steering and throttle motions. Note that this is mainly for medium to low speed corners.
* Faint Drift is performed by rocking the car towards the outside of a turn and then using the rebound of grip to throw the car into the normal cornering direction. This is a rally racing technique used to change vehicle attitudes during cornering, mainly on tight mountain corners.
* Clutch Kick is performed by depressing the clutch pedal on approach or during a mild drift, then popping the clutch to give a sudden jolt through the driveline to upset rear traction.
* Shift Lock is performed by letting the revs drop on downshift into a corner and then releasing the clutch to put stress on the driveline to slow the rear tires, inducing an over steer. This is similar to pulling the E-brake through a turn and should be performed on wet surfaces to minimize damage to the driveline.
* E-Brake Drift is a very basic technique in which the driver pulls the E-Brake (emergency-brake) to induce rear traction loss and balances the drift through steering and throttle play. Note that this can also be used to correct errors or fine tune drift angles.
* Dirt Drop Drift is performed by dropping the rear tires off the road into the dirt to maintain or gain drift angle without losing power or speed and to set up for the next turn. Note that this technique is very useful for low horsepower cars.
* Jump Drift is a technique in which the rear tire on the inside of a turn or apex is bounced over a curb to lose traction resulting in over steer.
* Long Slide Drift is performed by pulling the E-brake through a straight to start a high angle drift and to holding this to set up for the turn ahead. Note that this can only be done at high speed.
* Swaying Drift is a slow side-to-side, faint-like drift where the rear end sways back and forth down a straight.
* FF Drift or front wheel drive drift is a technique in which the E-brake as well as steering and braking techniques are used to balance the car through a corner. Note that the E-brake is the main technique used to balance the drift.
* Power Over is performed when entering a corner and using full throttle to produce heavy over.
DRIFT TECHNIQUES
* Kansei Drift is performed at race speeds when, upon entering a high speed corner, a driver lifts his foot off the throttle to induce a mild over steer and then balances the drift through steering and throttle motions. Note that the car used for this style of drift should be a neutral balanced car so that the over steer will induce itself. If the car plows through any turn the technique will not work.
* Braking drift is performed by tail braking into a corner, resulting in loss of grip and then balanced through steering and throttle motions. Note that this is mainly for medium to low speed corners.
* Faint Drift is performed by rocking the car towards the outside of a turn and then using the rebound of grip to throw the car into the normal cornering direction. This is a rally racing technique used to change vehicle attitudes during cornering, mainly on tight mountain corners.
* Clutch Kick is performed by depressing the clutch pedal on approach or during a mild drift, then popping the clutch to give a sudden jolt through the driveline to upset rear traction.
* Shift Lock is performed by letting the revs drop on downshift into a corner and then releasing the clutch to put stress on the driveline to slow the rear tires, inducing an over steer. This is similar to pulling the E-brake through a turn and should be performed on wet surfaces to minimize damage to the driveline.
* E-Brake Drift is a very basic technique in which the driver pulls the E-Brake (emergency-brake) to induce rear traction loss and balances the drift through steering and throttle play. Note that this can also be used to correct errors or fine tune drift angles.
* Dirt Drop Drift is performed by dropping the rear tires off the road into the dirt to maintain or gain drift angle without losing power or speed and to set up for the next turn. Note that this technique is very useful for low horsepower cars.
* Jump Drift is a technique in which the rear tire on the inside of a turn or apex is bounced over a curb to lose traction resulting in over steer.
* Long Slide Drift is performed by pulling the E-brake through a straight to start a high angle drift and to holding this to set up for the turn ahead. Note that this can only be done at high speed.
* Swaying Drift is a slow side-to-side, faint-like drift where the rear end sways back and forth down a straight.
* FF Drift or front wheel drive drift is a technique in which the E-brake as well as steering and braking techniques are used to balance the car through a corner. Note that the E-brake is the main technique used to balance the drift.
* Power Over is performed when entering a corner and using full throttle to produce heavy over.
I could say something but I wont.
07-12-06, 11:51 AM
#87
I was there in my new FC. It's a red 91 coupe. It's got pretty much everything from the blk car but this frame is nice and straight 
You can see it's progression here https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...9&page=4&pp=15
You can see it's progression here https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...9&page=4&pp=15
07-13-06, 04:53 AM
#93
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I thought there was a way to just get the DTSS bushings?
Where would one find new DTSS bushings? I will probably change mine soon because I don't know if mine are working properly.
Where would one find new DTSS bushings? I will probably change mine soon because I don't know if mine are working properly.
08-13-06, 03:46 AM
#94
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setup tuning tips
front toe in increases, stabilty under accel increases however toe in deceases steering when entering corners
rear toe in affects the traction of both front and rear of the car. rear toe in inceases the amout of traction in the rear but deceases steering
rear anti sqaut will incease traction and give you more on power stability hower it will take away grip from decelerating into a corner
negative camber more u have more traction in the turns youll have to a point. the best way to adjust camber is to check the tire with a heat gun and adjust it untill the tire reads a even temp across the the tread or cheaper way is to look at tire wear lot of out side tire wear u need less camber... typically camber is set from 0-2 degrees of negative camber
stiffer springs up front takes away traction and gives it to the rear
stiffer springs in rear gives you more front traction
if the front is lower youll have more steering
if the rear is lower youll have more rear traction
softer shocks cause the shocks to soak up bumps faster but to soft or on rough roads can cause the car to bounce
softer shocks upfront makes the front steer more going into the turn but less going out same for rear
heavy shocks give u more steering coming out of the turn less going in
if the shocks seems to get really stiff or lock up when it gets bumpy u have to much shock "packing" use a larger piston or valve setting
4:45am and tired hope typed everything the way i meant to lol guess ill find out after i get some sleep
front toe in increases, stabilty under accel increases however toe in deceases steering when entering corners
rear toe in affects the traction of both front and rear of the car. rear toe in inceases the amout of traction in the rear but deceases steering
rear anti sqaut will incease traction and give you more on power stability hower it will take away grip from decelerating into a corner
negative camber more u have more traction in the turns youll have to a point. the best way to adjust camber is to check the tire with a heat gun and adjust it untill the tire reads a even temp across the the tread or cheaper way is to look at tire wear lot of out side tire wear u need less camber... typically camber is set from 0-2 degrees of negative camber
stiffer springs up front takes away traction and gives it to the rear
stiffer springs in rear gives you more front traction
if the front is lower youll have more steering
if the rear is lower youll have more rear traction
softer shocks cause the shocks to soak up bumps faster but to soft or on rough roads can cause the car to bounce
softer shocks upfront makes the front steer more going into the turn but less going out same for rear
heavy shocks give u more steering coming out of the turn less going in
if the shocks seems to get really stiff or lock up when it gets bumpy u have to much shock "packing" use a larger piston or valve setting
4:45am and tired hope typed everything the way i meant to lol guess ill find out after i get some sleep
08-13-06, 06:24 AM
#95
I just recently started to try and push my 7 sideways, and it is way different from what I'm usually used to. I have an 86 hatch, which is my DD, and drifter. I built the engine to have about 150hp and with its body already as light as it is, it's not really an issue of breaking traction, but more over of keeping the revs up high enough to continue a drift. I have AGX's in it and the response is great. Now for the 7, I'm running Tokico 5-way adjustables w/ Intrax all around. I like a stiff feeling to my drifting but its all basically personal preferance. So I say just go with what get's comfertable with you.
Sorry if I wasn't much help?! =P
Sorry if I wasn't much help?! =P
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