Any recommendation on Carbon Fiber Hood
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From: n
The stock aluminum hood is right around 30 lbs.
We're talking bolt right into and work like the stock hood using stock hinges and front latch.
Aftermarket hoods requiring HOOD PINS should be illegal in most U.S. states.
It breaks the requirement that the hood needs a "two stage" locking mechanism; hood pins are not good enough.
Cheapie CF's will crack / delam / warp.
Cheapie CF's use a "ton" of resin, which just adds weight.
Very few of them us "vacuum bagging", which reduces the resin content.
I'd like to see a good, quality CF hood that weighs down to "5 or 6 lbs.".
I've seen a real Mazdspeed FD CF hood, and that thing weighed easily over 10 lbs. - and that's a $1,000 purchase!
The hoods should be 2-part molds, which have a top piece and a bottom reinforcing skeleton.
If it's one piece and flat with no reinforcement, it's going to either be really flimsy / flexible or really heavy due to lots of fiberglass (and resin).
-Ted
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From: Connecticut
: So ted, how much actual vacuum bagging experience do you have?What vacuum bagging allows you to do is use the same or more EPOXY (resin alone only smells good and gets sticky, you need to mix it with hardener to start a chemical reaction, now you have EPOXY - noob) and then pull the air out from inside the woven and get deeper penetration of the EPOXY. It works best when you are glassing over a piece or multiple pieces of wood. By bagging your piece you are pulling the EPOXY farther into the wood and from many more angles. De-laminating becomes a thing of the past because you have a much more substantial mechanical bond. The only really bad thing about bagging is you really loose the ability to add multiple layers of glass once your first kicks off.
Nice hood. I sold mine to a guy with an LS1 after my first project tanked. Got it from Dave(Gibson) back in 05.
Any recommendations Ted?
Yes, it's pretty hard to get them to be under 30 lbs.
The stock aluminum hood is right around 30 lbs.
We're talking bolt right into and work like the stock hood using stock hinges and front latch.
Aftermarket hoods requiring HOOD PINS should be illegal in most U.S. states.
It breaks the requirement that the hood needs a "two stage" locking mechanism; hood pins are not good enough.
Cheapie CF's will crack / delam / warp.
Cheapie CF's use a "ton" of resin, which just adds weight.
Very few of them us "vacuum bagging", which reduces the resin content.
I'd like to see a good, quality CF hood that weighs down to "5 or 6 lbs.".
I've seen a real Mazdspeed FD CF hood, and that thing weighed easily over 10 lbs. - and that's a $1,000 purchase!
The hoods should be 2-part molds, which have a top piece and a bottom reinforcing skeleton.
If it's one piece and flat with no reinforcement, it's going to either be really flimsy / flexible or really heavy due to lots of fiberglass (and resin).
-Ted
The stock aluminum hood is right around 30 lbs.
We're talking bolt right into and work like the stock hood using stock hinges and front latch.
Aftermarket hoods requiring HOOD PINS should be illegal in most U.S. states.
It breaks the requirement that the hood needs a "two stage" locking mechanism; hood pins are not good enough.
Cheapie CF's will crack / delam / warp.
Cheapie CF's use a "ton" of resin, which just adds weight.
Very few of them us "vacuum bagging", which reduces the resin content.
I'd like to see a good, quality CF hood that weighs down to "5 or 6 lbs.".
I've seen a real Mazdspeed FD CF hood, and that thing weighed easily over 10 lbs. - and that's a $1,000 purchase!
The hoods should be 2-part molds, which have a top piece and a bottom reinforcing skeleton.
If it's one piece and flat with no reinforcement, it's going to either be really flimsy / flexible or really heavy due to lots of fiberglass (and resin).
-Ted
Any recommendations Ted?
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From: We're all fine here now, thank you. How are you?
Another Carbon Creation happy customer here, although it was for my 240 back in the day it weighed 7lbs 8oz, fit was great, and all of the latches and hinge mounts lined up perfectly.
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[quote=boostedfc3s;7628841]
Actually if you look at the scoop and the vents on my hood it helps dramatically with cooling. I now run a FMIC but the scoop allows cool air to blow across the UIM and TB and the vents in the rear corners let the hot air out. The vent on the passenger side is almost directly behind the turbo. With the engine warm and sitting at idle you can put your hand behind the vents and feel the mechanical fan blowing the hot air out. I have actually noticed a small drop in water temp.
I noticed yours had the little vents which might help but the main scoop is useless. What cooling benefits will you get by having air hit the manifold? You might be able to argue about heatsoaking but you really want as much of the hot air OUT more than you want to get some cold air in to the top of the motor.
I'm not saying it's not a cool looking hood, it just makes more sense to get as much out of my money as possible. For me the means maximum cooling. So far the D-max has given me sufficient proof to believe it is better than anything else. This is mainly due to the fact that it's been tested and doesn't cost $1K +shipping.
Actually if you look at the scoop and the vents on my hood it helps dramatically with cooling. I now run a FMIC but the scoop allows cool air to blow across the UIM and TB and the vents in the rear corners let the hot air out. The vent on the passenger side is almost directly behind the turbo. With the engine warm and sitting at idle you can put your hand behind the vents and feel the mechanical fan blowing the hot air out. I have actually noticed a small drop in water temp.
I'm not saying it's not a cool looking hood, it just makes more sense to get as much out of my money as possible. For me the means maximum cooling. So far the D-max has given me sufficient proof to believe it is better than anything else. This is mainly due to the fact that it's been tested and doesn't cost $1K +shipping.
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The sole purpose for putting ducts on hoods is not to lower the water and oil temperatures, but to prevent heat from building up inside the engine bay. This keeps the sensors in proper working order as well as maintaining the other components from heat related wear. D-MAX had come up with a D1 spec hood that performs just as well as it looks.
Fight the heat before it even gets hot!
It's here, D-MAX's new version of their line of hoods but what's so special about this one is that this one comes with ducts. Everyone knows that the ducts serve as an air passageway for when the vehicle is in motion, keeping the water and oil temperatures down. The hood also minimizes the discomforting sensation of when the front of the vehicle starts rising. Another reason to use this hood is that it keeps the sensors in good working order.
It serves as great benefit to the vehicle not to mention the visual enhancement it provides for the vehicle. What's so special about this vented hood is that unlike conventional hood ducts, the D-MAX D1 hood directs hot air out of the engine bay from the front area of the radiator and from the rear of the engine bay as well. The carbon fiber structure is built tough with hood latches for those who want to avoid the hood pin look.
The hood has been installed in numerous D1 spec cars. We compared the two popular hoods; the D1 hood and a non vented hood after a hard drifting session at the track.
Fight the heat before it even gets hot!
It's here, D-MAX's new version of their line of hoods but what's so special about this one is that this one comes with ducts. Everyone knows that the ducts serve as an air passageway for when the vehicle is in motion, keeping the water and oil temperatures down. The hood also minimizes the discomforting sensation of when the front of the vehicle starts rising. Another reason to use this hood is that it keeps the sensors in good working order.
It serves as great benefit to the vehicle not to mention the visual enhancement it provides for the vehicle. What's so special about this vented hood is that unlike conventional hood ducts, the D-MAX D1 hood directs hot air out of the engine bay from the front area of the radiator and from the rear of the engine bay as well. The carbon fiber structure is built tough with hood latches for those who want to avoid the hood pin look.
The hood has been installed in numerous D1 spec cars. We compared the two popular hoods; the D1 hood and a non vented hood after a hard drifting session at the track.
The rear duct makes this design super efficient along with the three rows of fins. During motion, these fins provide an uplift of air forcing it to escape through. It literally sucks out the hot air present inside the engine bay.
http://www.jdm-option.com/eng/parts/06_06/dmax.html
Thanks dude. There was talk about aero, but very little. It sounds like it was designed for cooling and good looks, rather than the relief of pressure from the front. Oh well, I'll keep digging for an R-Magic unit.
Actually if you look at the scoop and the vents on my hood it helps dramatically with cooling. I now run a FMIC but the scoop allows cool air to blow across the UIM and TB and the vents in the rear corners let the hot air out. The vent on the passenger side is almost directly behind the turbo. With the engine warm and sitting at idle you can put your hand behind the vents and feel the mechanical fan blowing the hot air out. I have actually noticed a small drop in water temp.
I think that might be just you wanting to think you have a cooler temp. I can believe that the vents at the back help, but that main scoop is really just going to create more turbulence/pressure under the hood. Which again, could be why the side vents work so well.
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From: n
Actually if you look at the scoop and the vents on my hood it helps dramatically with cooling. I now run a FMIC but the scoop allows cool air to blow across the UIM and TB and the vents in the rear corners let the hot air out. The vent on the passenger side is almost directly behind the turbo. With the engine warm and sitting at idle you can put your hand behind the vents and feel the mechanical fan blowing the hot air out. I have actually noticed a small drop in water temp.
The positioning of the "side vents" get awfully close to the base of the windshield.
The base of the windshield is a major positive pressure area in terms of aerodynamics.
I doubt you'd get any useful airflow through those side vents unless,
1) you're sitting still, or
2) you're going over 100+ mph.
Easy enough to prove...
Just tape a few piece of string right inside the vent.
Go driving around and video the pieces of string dancing on the hood...
-Ted
you guys might have some good points about my hood, some things i never thought about. the forward facing scoop might cause more turbulance under the hood but at street driving speeds i think it might help the rear vents exhaust heat. maybe the lower water temps are just my imagination but it makes me feel better. LOL. as far as what RETed said you could be right about the placement of the rear vents, maybe the hot air i feel on my hand at idle is the only time they're working. My car is primarily a street driven car so the high mile per hour thing doesn't apply to me like it would a road racer car. i like the idea of the test with a piece of string. i'll have to try that when the snow melts and it gets warmer outside. kinda makes me wonder if i should have started a thread like this myself before i bought my hood. oh well.
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From: California
so where can I get one besides EBAY though I know they carrys them but I just don't like ebay that much sorry guys that maybe deal with ebay but any where I can get a carbon creation cf hood for my FC and is trusted dealer.
thanks.
thanks.