Rickyyp

iTrader: (3)

car is a s5 with a s5 jdm motor, it has been rebuilt and has a walbaro 255 FP. So the car will not start, it is getting fuel so maybe spark? need some tips on where to start. AFM is new so is the map sensor, also have a FPR set to ~40 static.

I just tryed the MMO about a table spoon amount into the spark plug holes and that didnt work. The car has started before in the past but after sitting at a shop for 2-3 weeks ( no start ) it wont anymore. Below are a couple of pictures that i needed some help with it.

1) what is the bolt, with the tab on the firewall supposed to be hooked up to?
2) on the AFM harness there is a black wire sticking out. Does that need to be replaced or can it be repaired?
3) on that white finger there is a black pin type of thing. what is that for ?
4) to the right of the big black box there is a black connector with the inside green. is there something that is supposed to be there?
(no pic) 6) on the passenger side of the motor on the bottom of the LIM, there is a BOV looking thing which i believe to be the EGR? is that supposed to run into the TID or just left open or capped??

ANY help would be awesome! tips or advice will be greatly appreciated

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

1) make a ground wire for it, there is supposed to be a ground strap there that bolts to the top of the transmission with a 10mm bolt.

2) looks like the AFM ground wire but i can't be sure by the picture, if so then the AFM won't be sending the signal to the ECU so the engine may start and kind of idle but the wiring needs to be repaired for it to run right. you may be able to depin the connector and resolder the wire, get someone who knows decent wiring skill for this.

3) is the tachometer signal wire for a tachometer to be used in the engine bay, disregard it and DO NOT attempt to ground it or you will fry the coil pack.

4) another somewhat unused connector i believe for either the fog lights or for the front markers. won't affect the ability of the engine to start.

test the ignition by plugging some new spark plugs into your wires, lay the plugs on the strut tower and crank the engine while watching to see if they spark. the leading MUST be sparking(front coil pack) if you ever want to fire up a new engine.

i also can't really tell but it looks like there is an accessory hole in your turbo intake duct, ALL holes in the intake must be plugged, ANY vacuum leaks will cause idle and no start issues.
if you're having issues with spark then be sure the coil packs are nicely grounded, weak grounding will also kill the coil packs.

i would also check the TPS, on the series 5 if it is out of whack it will cause fuel cut while cranking and still even so, eventual flooding.

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

the jdm engines have reversed fuel flow...how did you hook up the fuel lines?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

+1, not sure why i didn't think of that before, if using the stock rats nest that came with that motor then try swapping the fuel lines.

there will still be a small amount of fuel getting to the rails to possibly start the car but it won't really run. the AFM wiring is still a priority fix though before moving forward. that is the one critical piece of equipment the ECU needs to run.

SpikeDerailed

iTrader: (7)

Isnt 40psi static fuel pressure a bit much for a car running a stock turboii ECU? Since they have the stage voltage system for the pump.

-RotorDemon-

Why is the BOV vacuum line capped off?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

40psi without any vacuum present at the regulator is actually a factory figure.

Rickyyp

iTrader: (3)

idk i think the shop had done that to eliminate all possible vaccum leaks.

yeah the fuel lines were in the right order, but the FPR was hooked up wrong and he had it to 20 instead of 40. I got the car to start now and adjusted it to 40psi, but am now back to a no idle situation.

Removing the TPS does nothing to the idle, it starts right up no problems and revs up to 3k like it is supposed to then dies. after a couple trys it went up to 1k then dyed. the car will rev fine with the pedal. this happens with the TPS plugged in or not.
It is worse with the AFM d/c. with it plugged in it acts normal.

For the idle control i am using a NA s5 TB. The idle screw is not there for some reason. Also on the BAC for the t2 that came with the block, it is not there either. What is an efficent way to adjust idle. I am 99% sure i do not have a huge vaccum leak anywhere. Will try to get a smoke machince though if all else fails.

If it helps i had the intercooler on but forgot to tighten the clamp so it popped it off on one side. This lead to the car idleing on its own but with a loopy idle. with it on there is no idle

Thanks for any help,
Ricky

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

try having someone hold the idle as low and steady as possible while you spray around the UIM with a can of carburetor cleaner just to rule out any vacuum leaks. if it smooths out or stumbles a bit around a certain area you found a leak spot.

try swapping the fuel lines and back again just to rule out any issue of the lines still possibly being backwards.

fix the AFM wiring

try to get a ballpark for the ignition timing to see if it even remotely close

Rickyyp

iTrader: (3)

i had my friend keep the car around 3k and sprayed it with carb cleaner, there were no results to this test. I checked the flow of the hoses, they were good. On the AFM we took off the protective loom and traced to wire back. It turns out it is just wire insulation for the green wire. The AFM works since with it plugged in the car actually revs freely and starts up right away, as to it unplugged. Also my friend took off the CAS cover and lined up the markings on it as well as lined up the markings with the crank pulley, this didn't do anything noticeable.

I bought my old AFM which was bad from someone, and i bought it with the MAP and ECU. I replaced the AFM and MAP but not the ECU. is it possible that my ECU is bad leading to a no idle ?

Lastly no one said anything about my 1st post where i mentioned the EGR thing, is that supposed to be routed to the TID ? is it okay if that is open?

Thanks again,
Ricky

Rickyyp

iTrader: (3)

here is the wire i was talking about regarding the afm.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

the EGR thing i believe you mean is the ACV. the series 5 and jspec engines didn't have an EGR. it is supposed to hook to the smog pump if you are running all the emissions stuff.

try getting a video of the engine running and revving to get an idea if how the engine is running, whether lean/rich, ignition related, constipated, etc. it won't run any lower than 3k without wanting to shut off? did you check the injector clips to be sure they are hooked to the correct injectors? next step may be to try and borrow a wideband from someone to see how lean the engine is running, you may still have a faulty AFM, try playing with the plunger on the AFM while the engine is running to see if it will allow the engine to run at a lower RPM indicating a lean issue pointing towards a bad AFM, switched injector wiring or sticky injectors.

Rickyyp

iTrader: (3)

i dont have a smog pump ( air pump) so does that have to be capped? Ill try everything you said and post a video with an update tommorow

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

should just get a block off plate for the ACV from mazdatrix then.

Rickyyp

iTrader: (3)

will do thanks

HAILERS2

That is the SHIELD of the output wire to the ECU. It gets grounded on one end of the shield only. So I'm guessing it's grounded at the other end of the shield. To prove it all you have to do is put the meter on ohms and one meter lead on a known ground point and the other lead to the shield. If the meter reads say 0.4 ohms............all's well. IF it shows a open then ground the shield (very unlikely imho).

You only want a shield of a wire to be grounded on or at one end of the shield, not both ends. It's written so somewhere. The FSM wiring diagrams should show which end is grounded. Read book.

EDIT: The wiring diagram shows it grounded at the ECU end of the shield...........or at least close by that end.

Rickyyp

iTrader: (3)

UPDATE: its been a long time. i went to switch the fuel inj. harness clips and the LIM broke off with the UIM. just replaced it and did the emissions delete. i also got a new wiring harness for it.

So my question is that now the whole spider vacuum rack is gone and now i have to run the fuel lines straight to the rails; which hose goes to what rail. Looking at it i forgot, its been too long.

Also i have the aftermarket FPR now so should i run the vacuum line from the middle of the LIM to it and cap off the stock FPR? or should i tee it and run both as a "just in case" ? im paranoid and want to make it work. I am keeping my BAC and all that thermowax stuff.

Thanks !

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

the line off the fuel filter goes to the short primary rail inlet down low on the block, the outlet off the secondary rail goes to the return hard line at the firewall.

the stock FPR should be eliminated but the S5 rails have the FPR integrated into the stamped steel rail, cheapest solution would be to get a series 4 turbo secondary rail and remove the FPR from that and tap the threads for an NPT barb fitting for the outlet.

while you have it apart, disable the ignition and do a test of the injectors to see if they are spraying while cranking the engine. while they did test ok after i cleaned/tested them when i shipped them, they have been through a lot and may have decided to lock up again while in transit before getting primed with fuel again. keep in mind the original condition of that engine as everything had been soaked with water and rust set into just about everything.

Rickyyp

iTrader: (3)

alright thanks again. ill do all this and update.

Rickyyp

iTrader: (3)

alright so i did the emissions delete. i have the vacuum line running inbetween the injectors, the one under it going to the FPR, and the ones running to the OMP. i also have the nipple under the BAC going straight to the map sensor. everything else is capped off. i kept the BAC and TB all stock. Got the fuel running correctly now and put it all together. new harness and got a nf01 ? i think AFM n MAP. n370 ecu. had the car running two nights ago it was idling, but leaking coolant from the LIM. i took it apart cleaned the gasket and put some gasket maker around the o-rings. no more leak. made the LIM tight as ****. Now i put it all back together. tested for leaks and i was spraying fuel out the top of one of my injectors. i took it off cleaned it and put it back on nice and snug. now it doesnt leak. everything else was put back together exactly the same. now it wont idle. starts everytime. set the timing with the yellow dot at the pin on the pulley and the cas with the top round mark at the arrow. still starts fine but wont idle. i dont understand. anyone have any ideas? could the inj cause a vac leak? i cant have a vac leak. i only have 4 vac lines that are hooked up. literally everything else is capped and removed.

should i adjust the TB more open? when the car is on i can rev it no prob. i can save it from stalling until like 500rpms.

Rickyyp

iTrader: (3)

this ***** bumming me out. it was idling 2 days ago on its own at like 700 rpms. i put it back together exactly the same. i dont ******* understand. any ideas are welcome. really need it running tonight or tomm.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

temporarily you can use the throttle cable to hold the idle up to keep it running by loosening the slack out of the cable via the 2 12mm nuts at the cable end at the back of the throttle body. there is also a screw at the top back of the throttle body you can adjust to hold idle, but it's a pain in the *** to get to with the top mount intercooler.

once you get it somewhat idling without assistance pick up a can of carb cleaner and spray the **** out of the top of the engine, if it idles up and smooths out at a certain spot then you have a vacuum leak in that area that you need to fix. don't let simplicity fool you, i find more leaks on simplified engines than i do 100% OEM setups.

if there is zero vacuum leaks, you may have actually cured one after reassembling it this time around and the leak was holding the idle up before. in which case you will need to manually set the idle higher with the screw at the back top of the throttle body if that is the turbo throttle body. be sure you got the brake booster hose, that one is easy to forget.

keep your head up, you are making progress and sounds like it's just down to the home stretch now.