My TPS switch is giving me very bizarre readings. On both the low and high band, I am getting 4.3k ohms. As I understand from reading a number of posts and procedures, they should read .8k ohms and 1k ohms? Is this correct? Also, is it necessary to have the test port grounded when doing this? Some posts say it makes no difference. Where is the "Test/check connector" ? Is it on the passenger side next to the green three port TPS test connector? (it is green as well?)]

Also, which band should be tested and adjusted first? The narrow or Wide?

In the John R voltmeter method, he is measuring volts to make the determination, not ohms. Is this correct and which method is easiest and most accurate? Factory method, John R, or Alan method?

I really need to get this wrapped up tomorrow so I appreciate the help in advance.

 

huh? test port grounded? no

test the switch's resistance, the shop manual has very clear instruction.

the TPS switch is either Black or White (NA / Turbo)

I test mine and its bad, bought a new Turbo one, swap the bracket , install it back, adjust it with the 2 light method with Official Mazda tool, throttle issue fixed.

 

There is more than enough info on TPS checking if you search.

 

IF I were you......................I'd take a few minutes out of my busy day and download the FUEL AND EMISSIONS section of the series five FSM. Read page F1-83 starting with the paragraph called ADJUSTMENT.

IGNORE anything above that.

ADJUSTMENT has five steps. Do all five and be done with it. Pay attention to what it says in regards to WARM UP THE ENGINE. This is improtant 'cause there are mechanical mechanisms that MOVE the linkage until the the water temp gets fully heated up. Movement of the linkage.....moves the TPS plunger. Not desireable.

The TEST tool is simply two cheap LED's bought from RadioShack for less than three dollars. Plus buying three spade connectors for less than a buck. You join the two LEDs RED wires together and terminate them in one spade connector. The other two wires left over each get terminated with a spade connector.

Then you go to your TPS check connector which is green in color and has three wire going to it. ONe of those wires is black/white (batt pwr) and you install the two red wires of your LED's into the socket where the black/white wire is.

The other two spades of you LED tool go into each of the other two sockets of the TPS check connector.

After making that tool, just follow the five steps in ADJUSTMENT. Done.

IN those steps of Adjustment, the LED lights will come on at certain times. They come on because the ECU is outputting a GROUND to the wires in the TPS check connector. The ECU puts a ground on the Blue wire with a yellow stripe on it WHEN the TPS outputs 1vdc to the ECU.

If you'll notice in the ADJUSTMENT instructions, when all is said and done, only ONE led is lit up when you finish. That one light is the one that has a Blue/Yellow wire going to it.

So what does this mean???? It means you could simply IGNORE the ADJUSTMENT steps and make life simpler. You could make sure the connectors to the TPS are connected up. Then find the Green/Red (green wire with a red stripe) in the half of the TPS plug that is part of the EM harness (in other words not the plug half connected to the TPS pigtail). Once you find that wire, you'd backprobe the socket in the plug where the green/red wire is. And with a fully HOT engine with key to ON (engine off ...or at idle if you want to make life harder on yourselfZZZ) and the meter on dcvolts, you'd adjust the TPS screw til the meter showed approx 1vdc.

Once you do that, remove the meter and close the lid to the engine and go do something useful.

Approx 1vdc to me would mean if the meter read 0.95 to 1.05 vdc........that's good enough. Closer than what is required.

I only write this to confuse people. I've used the ohm method.........the LED light method, and the end result is the green/red wire outputting approx 1vdc. So simple to just backprobe a single wire and be done with it in a couple of minutes. No need to buy LED's.

The Green/Red wire is the output of the Narrow range TPS. If your obsessed, the Black/Green is the FULL range TPS and its output should be approx 0.8 vdc.

 

the John R method is reading voltage with meters instead of having that voltage light up one, all,or none of the LEDs in the two light method.

 

lol u ***. the part in bold is all he needs to do.

I did it and all works well.

 

All he needs to do is backprobe the green/red wire with a fullly hot engine and turn the screw til he sees one volt dc. Takes (after warmup) maybe five minutes on the outside. No LED need to be bought nor needed.

I don't even need a meter. All one has to do is turn the TPS screw til the Relief solenoid clicks and walla, done. Course it has to click to open, not close. Not an amateur when messing with TPS.

 

I hope to be doing this tomorrow -- all of your advice thus far has been spot on and I thank you. Need to set idle properly first...