blackrotary23

there is a right and wrong way to put on a gasket. but remember this, it will do its job no matter how you put it on, as long as it matches up. so to answer your question:
no

3vil

iTrader: (4)

ok i double checked the starter wiring and it was ok.

3vil

iTrader: (4)

i was just checking my fuel lines to see if there is gas flowing through them. i do not have access to a pressure gauge at this time, so i was merely pulling the line and jumping the connector to see what kind of flow there was. when i pulled the line between the fuel filter and the primary rail there was what appeared to me to be a strong steady flow of fuel.

it's when i pulled the secondary to return line that things seemed wrong. there was basically nothing flowing from the hose, only a very slight dribble. i applied vacuum to the FPR and the dribble increased, but it was still very slow. nothing like the flow going into the primary rail.

is this normal?

satch

iTrader: (1)

There should be fuel flowing from the return line w/key to on a fuel check connector jumpered. In one minute approximately 30 ounces should come from the return line. You either have really weak fuel pressure or a problematic FPR. Look at post #18 in the following link. 900 ml = 30 ounces.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...n+line+hailers

3vil

iTrader: (4)

finally a real ray of hope. i just read that whole topic you linked and i think it might help. i got a few spare dollars, so i'm going to head to harbor freight tomorrow and pickup a cheap fuel pressure gauge.

i'll check the pressure between the filter and primary rail, between the primary and secondary rail, and between the secondary rail and return hardline. i'll also perform that flow test for each of those 3 areas and see where the flow is dropping off. hopefully something will turn up, i can deal with it, and get this bitch back on the road.

blackrotary23

all that you have done so far, look under the driverside dash and there is a relay that has a yellow bottom to it with a 6 prong connector. take it out, take off the black casing, and check to see if there are any burn marks on it or if the contacts of the copper arm are arking and making it to where there is no metal to metal contact. if this is the case, sandpaper becomes your friend.

check to see if it is a fuel problem:
pump
filter
solenoid resistor
pump relay
injectors
pulsation damper (should have a screw "tightened" in it, if not, then its bad)
pressure regulator

check to see if it is an ignition problem:
plugs
wires
coils
main relay
fuse
ecu
crank angle sensor

check to see if it is an air ratio problem:
air flow meter
pressure sensor
tps
heat hazzard (under passenger seat)

and last but not least:
if it starts and runs, then spray the whole engine down with brake cleaner and see if there is a vacuum leak somewhere.

3vil

iTrader: (4)

ok i think i'm on to something here. bought a harbor freight fuel pressure gauge and started to systematically checkout the car. i checked: at the pump, after the filter, between the two rails, and after the secondary rail. read 60psi upto the primary rail, and lost about 5psi between the rails. didn't seem to bad, thought it might just be inadequate vacuum on the FPR, so i moved on.

started trying that volume test that Hailers had come up with in the topic Satch linked to. grabbed a 1L bottle and got to work. as i stated earlier, it seemed like the return line (secondary to return hardline) wasn't flowing very well, so i started there. in one minute it pushed roughly 0.1L of fuel. not good.

so i pull the hose between the two rails and repeat the test, getting roughly the same results. this tells me that what ever is wrong, it probably does not involve the secondary rail. next i pull the line off of the filter itself, put a short piece of left over line i had laying around onto the filter, and test there. plenty of fuel pouring out, so much so that I didn't even bother waiting the full minute it was flowing that good.

obviously there is some obstruction around the primary rail. so i pull the UIM off (something that i am getting tired of doing) and pull out one of my old airbrushes and my little compressor. i put a rag around the fuel barb near the PD and use the airbrush to blow into the line that goes from the primary towards the secondary. very little air passes through the rail/hose. time to pull the rail off.

i remove the injectors and try to pressurize the rail again. i plug both the injector holes with my fingers, i can feel the pressure building up. i remove a finger from one injector hole, and then the other. both allow the air to flow out unrestricted. so it seems there is something wrong with my PD, some sort of blockage that is messing things up. this is when i notice something odd, my PD doesn't have the old yellow cap on it, and i can't see the notorious screw i've read about. here's a pic to clarify...



i don't know wtf that is, or why someone thought it'd be a good idea. i'm guessing the PD was leaking and the PO or some "mechanic" shoved some putty or something into the area to stop it??? so now i get to make the decision of PD or Banjo Bolt. why it decided to give me grief right after the trans swap is beyond me. i guess when it rains it pours.

i'll post an update when i replace the PD with whatever option i choose, and let everyone know if that solves things.

3vil

iTrader: (4)

ok here's the update...

i decided to go with the banjo bolt (cuz it's cheaper) and it finally arrived today. even though the weather was miserable, i went out and got to work. dropped in the banjo bolt and put the fuel lines all back together, then pressurized the fuel system. went inside and grabbed some lunch to allow any possible fuel leaks to show up. nothing was leaking so i put the UIM back together and buttoned everything down.

car fired right up, idle just fine. haven't had a chance to drive yet as i still need to install some interior pieces i removed while searching for the problem. but i've let it just idle in the driveway for about 30mins now and she's purring like a kitten.

hope this long and drawn out diagnosis i went through can help someone else out latter on down the road. it may take a while (like a ******* month) to find out what's wrong, but don't give up! also chances are the PO of your car was an idiot!!!

thanks again to Satch, Blackrotary23, and everyone else who helped me out.

Steves13b

iTrader: (9)

hey my "new" 88 vert started doing similiar things as your car was, my car fires up at super high rpm then dies. although i can keep it alive by messing with the gas and its even driveable, was your car drivable even though it refused to idle? And can you take a pic for me where that thing came off from and your new banjo bolt set up. Thanks i would really appreciate it!

RW-7

iTrader: (56)

I'm glad you got it figured out! Sometimes its the smallest things, and always THE LAST thing you look for.. Hope to see ya at some meets in the Summer.

drifter_xs

what if the tach doesnt show any needle bumps when cranking the motor?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The trailing coil feeds the tach so no needle bumps means the trailing is not working or the wiring from the coil to the tach is deficient or the tach is problematic.

drifter_xs

i have a question. im having this same problem and im getting 12v on both wires. what may cause this? ive changed the engine main relay already just a fyi. thanks. sorry to jump in this thread

drifter_xs

well when the motor fires up it starts the dies and i see the tach working %100 when the motor starts but when it doesnt want to start then i see no needle bump.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You're back again. Did you ever resolve the issue w/the Main Relay/voltage on required wires sometimes other times not? You know which wires power the coils. When you have the non working tach you just might want to check these wires.

drifter_xs

lol yeah im back. ive been working a lot to gather money to change all these parts. nope i still havent resolved it. i posted details on my thread.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...k-rpm-1012193/

satch

iTrader: (1)

You need to be able to measure voltage not just w/key to on but to start as well for your problem might be ignition related.

drifter_xs

I found the 3J pin in the ecu isn't getting any power. But when I do get a reading it's like a negative number.