another starts then dies thread
#30
ok so i checked the voltage of the ECU pins. and here are the the ones that were out of spec according to my FSM...
so sign are pointing towards a bad trailing coil, but i keep hearing that the car should run on the leading coil alone. also, it is bad that all my grounds to the ECU show a slight amount of voltage?
- 1M "Coil with Igniter (trailing) IGf-T" read 12.02v supposed to be below 2.0v
- 1X "Coil with Igniter (trailing) IGT-T (ignition timing signal)" read 0.14v supposed to be 0v
- 2C "Ground" read 0.05v supposed to be 0v
- 2I "Water Thermo Sensor" read 2.63v supposed to be 0.4-1.8v (but my car is completely cold)
- 2R "Ground" read 0.05v supposed to be 0v
- 3A "Ground" read 0.05v supposed to be 0v
- 3G "Ground" read 0.05v supposed to be 0v
so sign are pointing towards a bad trailing coil, but i keep hearing that the car should run on the leading coil alone. also, it is bad that all my grounds to the ECU show a slight amount of voltage?
#31
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As far as pin 1M is concerned the coil/igniter must be bolted to the fender properly for the igniter to be grounded. Without the ground pin 1M would read 12 volts so make sure it is grounded properly. Also, make sure the 4 wire connector at the trailing coil is plugged in.
Might be wrong but a .05 reading on the ground wires seems negligible.
Pin 2I, Water Thermosensor, should read 2 to 3 volts when engine coolant is cold.
Might be wrong but a .05 reading on the ground wires seems negligible.
Pin 2I, Water Thermosensor, should read 2 to 3 volts when engine coolant is cold.
#32
snap crackle brap
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check the voltage on the trailing coil where the - and + wires bolt up. take off the covers that read T1 an T2. check each one individually. they should read between 0.2 - 1.0 ohms. if it is less or more, replace the coil. the leading coil should read in the same range as well.
#33
check the voltage on the trailing coil where the - and + wires bolt up. take off the covers that read T1 an T2. check each one individually. they should read between 0.2 - 1.0 ohms. if it is less or more, replace the coil. the leading coil should read in the same range as well.
#37
snap crackle brap
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look, this is an easy fix. i have done this probably a hundred times before. if there is no spark on the leading coil but your rpms are working, then the coil itself is fried. probably has something to do with a bad ground from the tranny swap. something didnt get tightened down all the way or you missed something completely. CHECK EVERYTHING before you put in a new coil pack.
if the new pack does not work, then you fried the ecu.
if the new pack does not work, then you fried the ecu.
#39
Magic man
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If ur tack works then the ignighter on trailing side is working. I drove my car for almost a yr with no trailing coils.(no tack either) I had help from RB and fixed the problem. Bad ignighter. So u won't notice much of a difference without them. I was told there more of an immision thing. Help burn off excess fuel and what not. I would double check everything like blackrotary says.
#47
no, the syncro for 2nd-3rd was getting really bad, and i found a forum member near me who doing a part out and letting his go cheap. it was a straight forward s4 5speed change out. i replaced the front and rear oil seals on it, new shifter bushing and return spring, and reused my electronics on the new trans. also rebuilt the master and slave while the trans was out and picked up a steel slave line.
Last edited by 3vil; 12-16-10 at 01:28 AM. Reason: typos
#48
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If you haven't tried it then jumper the fuel check connector and w/key to on check for voltage at the the connector where the rear harness connects to the fuel pump harness on the fuel pump side of the connector.
Also, you might want to bypass the fuel cut unit you have currently installed.
With respect to the removal of the starter are you 100% sure you reconnected the wires to it exactly as before the removal when it comes to the wire(s) related to grounding?
Also, you might want to bypass the fuel cut unit you have currently installed.
With respect to the removal of the starter are you 100% sure you reconnected the wires to it exactly as before the removal when it comes to the wire(s) related to grounding?
#50
If you haven't tried it then jumper the fuel check connector and w/key to on check for voltage at the the connector where the rear harness connects to the fuel pump harness on the fuel pump side of the connector.
Also, you might want to bypass the fuel cut unit you have currently installed.
With respect to the removal of the starter are you 100% sure you reconnected the wires to it exactly as before the removal when it comes to the wire(s) related to grounding?
Also, you might want to bypass the fuel cut unit you have currently installed.
With respect to the removal of the starter are you 100% sure you reconnected the wires to it exactly as before the removal when it comes to the wire(s) related to grounding?
on a side note, i was thinking today. is it possible to put an exhaust gasket on the wrong way? i know that the flange on the racing beat stuff will not allow you tighten all 6 bolts down if you put the gasket on backwards, but what about the engine block side? is it possible to put an engine exhaust gasket on the wrong way and have it impede flow, similar to what a clogged cat would do?