another s4 5/6 port activation question
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another s4 5/6 port activation question
Looking at getting rid of my old factory and holey exhaust. So im looking at converting to backpressure system to electronic and i have a few questions.
How much pressure does it take to activate the ports, roughly?
ive seen people talk about using a solenoid to send air to the ports, but since i dont have any laying around and mt air pump is gone, im looking at getting an electric pump. Couldnt i have the RPM switch just turn on the pump rather than having it on all the time waiting for the solenoids?
if i do have to use a solenoid, what are some cheap ones that will work
How much pressure does it take to activate the ports, roughly?
ive seen people talk about using a solenoid to send air to the ports, but since i dont have any laying around and mt air pump is gone, im looking at getting an electric pump. Couldnt i have the RPM switch just turn on the pump rather than having it on all the time waiting for the solenoids?
if i do have to use a solenoid, what are some cheap ones that will work
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ok... i got a really dumb question now... is there when the actuators are suppose to be for the 5/6th ports? because if thats it... both of them are missing....
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thats what i thought. I cat turn the arms there by hand, so im guessing they are stuck closed. Is it worth me trying to find working actuators and trying to get the valves unstuck or just yank the sleeves?
also, someone suggested that i put the pineapple racing inserts in insted of pulling the sleeves
pineapple racing inserts
id like to hear yalls opinion
also, someone suggested that i put the pineapple racing inserts in insted of pulling the sleeves
pineapple racing inserts
id like to hear yalls opinion
#5
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Around 3 psi.
I have been toying with this very problem and rejected your approach for a couple of reasons.
-Your solution doesn't really change or simplify the system
-Once activated, how long does it take the airpump to build pressure and move the ports?
I figured there would always be a lag and the ports would follow behind the required opening/closing cycle.
-I don't know where you find solenoids that can handle the duty cycle...those things will be on/off constantly.
Still, the concept is attractive, so I decided to approach it from a strictly mechanical vector...no electric, no airpump.
I went so far as to get a cable I thought might work and hope to get it set up so the throttle body activates the ports (including VDI) directly...no vacuum/pressure or ECU involved at all.
No idea if it will work.
I've been sidelined swapping out engines and decided that the first step was get the stock system working (I am fortunately missing nothing) and go from there.
Next step is fitting some temporary contact switches to the port actuators so I can see (probably a light in the cabin) what they actually do, and when they do it.
It's a tricky system and would not be built this way if designed today.
-Your solution doesn't really change or simplify the system
-Once activated, how long does it take the airpump to build pressure and move the ports?
I figured there would always be a lag and the ports would follow behind the required opening/closing cycle.
-I don't know where you find solenoids that can handle the duty cycle...those things will be on/off constantly.
Still, the concept is attractive, so I decided to approach it from a strictly mechanical vector...no electric, no airpump.
I went so far as to get a cable I thought might work and hope to get it set up so the throttle body activates the ports (including VDI) directly...no vacuum/pressure or ECU involved at all.
No idea if it will work.
I've been sidelined swapping out engines and decided that the first step was get the stock system working (I am fortunately missing nothing) and go from there.
Next step is fitting some temporary contact switches to the port actuators so I can see (probably a light in the cabin) what they actually do, and when they do it.
It's a tricky system and would not be built this way if designed today.
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i agree about the solenoids. here is what i was thinking. Use a pump that puts out say, 6psi+, and add a T fitting inline but put a hole in the cap. The pump should put out enough pressure to push open the ports effeciantly, and the hole will sever as a pressure relief to both keep the pressure lower and allow the ports to close. Through trial and error, you should be able to dial in the "leak" size so they will close at a decent speed.
And as far as the speed of opening, you can just have the pump turn on sooner. It might not work as well if you are going though the rpm range slowly, but at WOT, it should work ok... atleast in my mind
but point is moot in my case for he time being, seeing as how my actuators are missing
And as far as the speed of opening, you can just have the pump turn on sooner. It might not work as well if you are going though the rpm range slowly, but at WOT, it should work ok... atleast in my mind
but point is moot in my case for he time being, seeing as how my actuators are missing
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