Heh, for all who were following my camber issue, check this out. I talked to the previous owner, and the wheel with the correct camber is actually the wheel that got hit. So something is bent, meaning the wheel with the 3 degrees actually is ok and I need to adjust my main camber link. I'm guessing then that either the trailing arm is bent or the subfame is bent. So looks like I need some parts. Sat I will jack up the ride height and play with the camber bar to at least get it back where it was (zero camber on bad wheel and a little negative on the good one) until I can get some parts.

Also, I had an idea about changing the rear camber individually... Since the bearing holder is attached to the trailing arm with 2 bolts, couldn't I put a camber bolt (like for a macpherson strut) in one of the points and do some adjusting there?

 

Gene, I'd like to hear how this problem works out for you. I have a 1/2 degree difference between R & L rear wheels - no matter what setting I adjust to, always a little more camber on the driver's side. I've always measured with the 'empty' (ie. no driver weight), so I don't know if it gets worse or better when I'm on board.
Maybe I'll try posting a message on the ITS racer board and see if anyone has experienced and solved the camber mis-match.

Curtis
'86 GXL autox'r

 

Sounds good. I don't know what they were thinking when they designed a rear suspension with no provision for camber adjustment... I was thinking of making adjustable rod ends to replace the mini camber links on the control arm inboard sides...

Another option is to find a straight one in a junkyard and pull the whole subframe...

 

Hey Gene,
thought you might like to see replies to my question on camber mis-match. I don't know how to post the link, so go to:
improvedtouring.com
in the "discussion forums: Mazda race cars" see the thread "Rear camber on 2nd gen RX-7"

Good luck

Curtis