imloggedin

i dont want people saying "just do the normal one" or anything.. i just wanna see what you guys think of this.. cause it would only require one wire ran to the back. a few things might need to be flipped on the diagram, like 87 and 87a.. otherwise in theory it should all work. also you wouldnt have to relocate anything.



thanks guys, plz no argueing!

Icemark

title updated to better reflect thread

NZConvertible

Just like the last time you posted this, I can't see the point of it. You're still relying on a large part of the stock fuel pump wiring (the proper rewire bypasses all of it), it takes no more effort to run two wires to the back as it does to run one, and most people are more than happy to get another thing out of the engine bay, particularly since it often makes fitting aftermarket air filters easier. So what are you trying to achieve?

HAILERS

Did I miss something? It appears that anytime thay you turn the key to OFF, the new relay will relax, just as it's shown in the picture, and then your fuel pump will be......running. You have a DieHard? and want to see how long it will run the pump?? Naw. I must be seeing things.

Scott 89t2

I think I see what he is trying to do. he is using the wire that turns the resistor relay on and off also turn the new relay on and off.

now in low voltage crusing mode the power will come from the stock lines and relays. at low mode who cares if you're losing voltage. but when the resister relay kicks off for full voltage. it also opens the new relay in the back switching power from a battery wire instead of the stock wires.

however as hailers said. there is no way to turn the pump off...

your power wire would also have to be 5-10' longer as it would go from battery to resister to trunk instead of just battery to trunk.

imloggedin

scott - you got most of it right.. as we've found out before the ecu is used for the ground though.

hailers - i didnt see that, the pump not turning off, could always add another relay attached to an accesory line. and thats why i posted here, for opinions like that.

nz - the whole point of this is to make it easier with less cutting of wires and less running. what you dont seem to understand is that the original rewire doesnt use any less of stock wiring than this does.. the original rewire uses the stock wires and adds an EXTENSION to the ECU switch wires, replaces a little bit of the blue/red and blue, but it doesnt really matter because the way i just showed provides power from the battery to the fuel pump just the same way, except at the resisted setting, but like scott said, who cares? this one you cut 3 wires, not 4. you leave it in its place, not relocate it. you run one wire, not 3. theres nothing wrong with trying to improve on something, if you wanna bash me for doing that plz go elsewhere, im just trying to get some technical opinions. thanks for your help otherwise.

NZConvertible

I didn't think it was particularly hard to begin with.
Yep, you're right, my bad. You need to flip the relay around the correct way. When wiring 5-pin relays, the battery should always be connected to 30, and whatever you're feeding to 87 (NO) or 87a (NC).
Cutting one more wire is hardly a major effort (snip); relocation only involves a couple of bolts; and you only pull two wires (one's 2-core), both at the same time, so it's no harder than pulling one.

If you put the new relay where it should be to minimise the power wire's length (either at the battery or at the fuel pump), you still need to run a signal wire from the resistor/relay to the new relay. If you put the new relay next to the resistor/relay, you're nearly doubling the length of the power wire because it has to run from the battery at the front left corner of the car to the resistor/relay at the front right corner and back again before heading to the pump at the left rear. The minimal extra effort to relocate the resistor/relay is worth it to avoid this.
Bashing? Jeez man, harden up.

NZConvertible

Actually that won't quite fix the problem will it? You'd need to add another ignition-switched relay which would not only make it more complicated (the opposite of what you're trying to do), but it would also bypass the AFM's safety switch and make the pump run when the ignition's on but the engine's off, something the original rewire keeps functional.

This isn't a bash, just pointing out the facts.

imloggedin

just trying to improve on it.. throwin out some ideas. the relocating of the resistor relay and the wire cutting would be worth it to me.. because i dont like to cut all the wires off that harness maybe it would be worth it to other people too

Icemark

Kinda harsh... since he wasn't bashing... he was showing some distinct technical advantages over your design.

NZConvertible

The thing about modifications is that if there's room for improvement then they don't remain unchanged for long. Someone will quickly come up with a better way. The fact that the original rewire has remained basically unchanged for so long is proof that there isn't any scope for improvement. All you're doing is making performance compromises to make it a bit easier.
I don't see why cutting the loom is such a problem. This is a permanent mod, so there's no need to make it reversible. Done properly it'll look close to stock, and it should never need to be touched again (unless you upgrade from the stock ECU). It's not like it's going to negatively affect the resale value of the car.

Scott 89t2

if I were to do it again I'd probably just add a relay to the back and leave the resistor alone. and have constant 12v. even at 9v I still have to lean my idle out anyways. pushing the down button on the Safc a few more times is easier then moving everything around.

the only problem would be if the 9v line couldn't trigger the 12v relay.

I can't see pump wear being a problem since most cars only run 12 anyways.

imloggedin

icemark - you dont understand, it was something from before..

like i said i dont wanna argue.. why cant people just say "that wont work because..".. i didnt post this to have someone say "dont try and modify it, its good as it is".. i can do what i want with my car, and i brought my theory here, i asked someone to disprove it not to tell me "dont do it". someone brought up the always on thing, so thats fine.. end of discussion.

scott - thanks for the reasonable posts and your input.