satch

iTrader: (1)

Until you can get the car to run w/o conking out I would keep the jumper in place at the relay. When you got the car to start up and it reved to 3k was this w/o the jumper? To unflood the car you can remove the "plug" to the relay to turn the fuel pump off and shoot a very small amount of starter fluid into the air intake and start the car. Do this a few separate times and then replug the relay in and give it a go. Also, "sometimes" when the plugs are wet they need to be replaced.

cbrock

iTrader: (1)

Can you get any codes from the ECU?

satch

iTrader: (1)

On a side note, if either jumper is in place and the key is turned to on it will cause the fuel pump to run.

sodrifter

iTrader: (4)

that was without the jumper. i just tried again with the jumper and it just acted like it wanted to start but instead just turned over at a quick pace and leaked smoke from the exhaust. so i pulled all the plugs and they were soaked with fuel.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Deflood.

sodrifter

iTrader: (4)

did the deflood. it fired up and ran even idled. with both jumpers in place. but didnt run very well. it was difficult to rev but i could rev it and it would return to idle. unfortunately it drained my battery and died. alt must have a problem too? when it did die i noticed my exhaust manifold was glowing red.

also i have a aem wideband o2 sensor and digital gauge. what kind of readings should i be getting?

it was around 10.2 at idle and went up into the 13 range when reved

satch

iTrader: (1)

Running rich or a retarded timing will cause the exhaust to glow and possibly a faulty air pump too. Since your plugs are wet they are not likely firing as they need to be thus extra fuel is left unignited and finding its way into the exhaust where it ignites and heats up those exhaust components more than usual. Low voltage related to the ignition could also cause the plugs to fire with less zeal causing a similar problem. A retarded timing would likely cause the idle rpm to be lower than normal but the timing usually doesn't change by itself so if it was fine before then it should be the same now. Since my car is all stock I am not familiar w/afr numbers so someone else with have to chime in. Get the alternator issue fixed and splurge for a set of new plugs. And as stated before, fuel pressure should be close to 30 psi at idle.

sodrifter

iTrader: (4)

ok... got the car running. i pulled the cas and reset the timing per the fsm. and put new plugs in. alt. issue fixed and fpr set to 30psi at idle. car still starts and dies. put the jumper in the fuel cicuit opening relay and it fires right up and seems to run and rev normal. pop the jumper out and it dies.

???????

satch

iTrader: (1)

The fuel switch in the AFM is probably problematic. With the jumper in place the fuel pump runs w/key to on so be careful of this so you don't perhaps flood the engine.