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So recently decided to finish what the previous owner of my 88 turbo 2 had started by removing the rest of unnecessary emissions and "rats nest".Now, ive searched and searched for the past week, and read through and looked over every diagram i could find multiple times,but im still a little confused as to where i need to run these vaccum lines,and what to cap off. The car is stock.
So i have removed the acv,air pump,and blocked everything off respectively,the bac was already removed and blocked/capped. Im not messing with the throttle body,and was going to keep the pcv but i might need to replace it as the cap keeps falling off it was full of moisture(white oil)
Im also curious as to what vaccum line is blocked off in one of the pictures below,and what appears to be a coolant line coming out of the trans(yellow),which isnt for the cold start because the coolant for the throttle body is still connected.
I just need to know from some one who has done this which vaccums go to which solenoids.
I'm keeping all the solenoids except for the fourth one,I simply need a diagram or explanation showing where to run all the vaccum lines to and from the solenoids. I look at the manual diagram all day under a microscope and not be able to figure it out. Also,any diagrams that people have made are for complete emissions removal and a bunch of other stuff I'm not doing.
can you back the pictures off so we can get a sense of where you are talking about. those pics are almost "colonoscopy type"..too close..lol!
Oops I had no idea.I cant edit my first post,if you can delete them then feel free and ill repost them below with better visuals.
But here is what i have so far, the egr vaccum running to its solenoid,then from the solenoid it goes to a T,back to the int mani.
The switching acuator vaccum line running to the solenoid,then out to the check valve,to the same T as above,and back to the int mani.
The line from the check valve on the intake(before turbo) going to the oil filler neck,and a T with one line going to the charcoal canister.
The purge valve is routed to and from the int mani,and to the middle iron housing,althought according to the diagram this should be going back into the oil filler neck?
After closer inspection,the picture with red, is part of the omp system,according to the diagram, its supposed to be vaccumed to the int mani,Im not sure why its blocked off but could i just reconnect it?
Lastly,the thing that sits above the pulsation damper is the sub zero assist correct?i just pulled it off and am having a plate made for it and capped the nipple below it.
And then back to my original post i was just curious to what line is blocked off on top of the trans,its below in yellow,I removed it and put an actual cap in its place
Verifying that the yellow circled coolant hose is the infamous intake manifold right angle hose. It feeds (or is a return? I don't remember) into the throttle body thermowax. If you're getting rid of the throttle body coolant loop that goes: top of block -> 90* hose -> throttle body thermowax -> hose following intake manifold to BACV -> BACV -> water pump housing, then just get rid of it. However, it'll make your cold start cam useless, which a lot of the old veterans of this forum will cry their hearts out if you do. It basically bumps idle when cold and then returns to normal idle speed when it warms up.
The one thing I will insist on is that you go back and get your BACV. That's about the most important idle control device in the entire car. No amount of fiddling with the throttle body will help it idle as nice. If your idle's been bumped above 750RPM, then that's just compensation for not having the BACV and you're wasting fuel and energy.
The red circled hose that's sitting above the primary fuel rail is for the sub zero start system. It was part of a TSB that said they were useless and for Mazda techs to disconnect them. If you can be bothered to, just get a block off plate and remove the piece that the hose attaches to. You'll need to trace the vacuum hose routing back to when it connects to the manifold and cap it there afterwards, but it'll help with you emissions clean up project. While you're at it, you might as well remove the coolant bottle that it connects to. You'll find it in the passenger side of the engine bay underneath the cruise control and charcoal canister.
Verifying that the yellow circled coolant hose is the infamous intake manifold right angle hose. It feeds (or is a return? I don't remember) into the throttle body thermowax. If you're getting rid of the throttle body coolant loop that goes: top of block -> 90* hose -> throttle body thermowax -> hose following intake manifold to BACV -> BACV -> water pump housing, then just get rid of it. However, it'll make your cold start cam useless, which a lot of the old veterans of this forum will cry their hearts out if you do. It basically bumps idle when cold and then returns to normal idle speed when it warms up. The one thing I will insist on is that you go back and get your BACV. That's about the most important idle control device in the entire car. No amount of fiddling with the throttle body will help it idle as nice. If your idle's been bumped above 750RPM, then that's just compensation for not having the BACV and you're wasting fuel and energy. The red circled hose that's sitting above the primary fuel rail is for the sub zero start system. It was part of a TSB that said they were useless and for Mazda techs to disconnect them. If you can be bothered to, just get a block off plate and remove the piece that the hose attaches to. You'll need to trace the vacuum hose routing back to when it connects to the manifold and cap it there afterwards, but it'll help with you emissions clean up project. While you're at it, you might as well remove the coolant bottle that it connects to. You'll find it in the passenger side of the engine bay underneath the cruise control and charcoal canister.
Thanks for the info. The bacv was already removed when I bought the car,I recently experienced idle issues but i found out it was the upper intake gasket leaking,once I had that off I continued to do the rest of the emissions and block offs. I'll try to source out another bacv if I continue to have idle issues once everything is back together.
I didn't mean to circle the vaccum line on the cold start,instead I meant to trace the line with the bolt in it, that goes under the lower fuel rail, I'm removing the fuel rail tomorrow anyways ( I believe my pulsation damper is close to failure so I'll be blocking it off) so I'll be able to get a closer look at the line vaccum line.
And the cold start on the manifold has been since removed,and blocked along with the vaccum lines.
Thanks for the info. The bacv was already removed when I bought the car,I recently experienced idle issues but i found out it was the upper intake gasket leaking,once I had that off I continued to do the rest of the emissions and block offs. I'll try to source out another bacv if I continue to have idle issues once everything is back together.
I didn't mean to circle the vaccum line on the cold start,instead I meant to trace the line with the bolt in it, that goes under the lower fuel rail, I'm removing the fuel rail tomorrow anyways ( I believe my pulsation damper is close to failure so I'll be blocking it off) so I'll be able to get a closer look at the line vaccum line.
And the cold start on the manifold has been since removed,and blocked along with the vaccum lines.
Apologies, I just glanced at it really quickly. The hose under - does it connect into a metal tube that routes back to the rest of the rats nest? If so, I think that just connects back into the middle of the LIM. I could be wrong though. My memory isn't great and I've been moving away from 13B-Ts lately.
So you're doing the banjo bolt mod on the fuel rail?
Apologies, I just glanced at it really quickly. The hose under - does it connect into a metal tube that routes back to the rest of the rats nest? If so, I think that just connects back into the middle of the LIM. I could be wrong though. My memory isn't great and I've been moving away from 13B-Ts lately. So you're doing the banjo bolt mod on the fuel rail?
After looking at the diagram again that looks very possible.
Yeah,when I pulled the plastic cover off the pd the screw fell out with it.
Just an update,all emissions are removed,stock fuel pulsation damper removed(aeromotive for going in soon) necessary vaccum lines re routed and capped off,only one solenoid remains,the one needed for twin scroll. I even blocked off the coolant feed for the turbo on the intake,freeze plugged the bottom hole, and re re routed to top of block. Fresh intake gaskets,injectors cleaned(one must've been clogged tests came back at 350cc before cleaning) and the car idles great. Only thing that would be nice is the cold start system which was already removed when bought the car.
Did you say you had an Aeromotive pulsation damper? Or just an Aeromotive FPR with built-in damping? If you have an actual external pulsation damper, please show us.
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To clarify about the sub-zero-start-assist system (the one that injects liquid under a certain ambient temperature).
A properly working system uses a small electric motor and a weird little metering valve to inject about 1 ounce of coolant mix into the intake, on each crank. Let go of the key, the system resets, and is ready to inject another ounce on the next crank. It's intended to help build compression on a frosty motor. In reality, it didn't work well and mostly just fouled plugs. I daily drove an FC for many years in Minnesota, and I never refilled that tank. The car never needed assistance on cold mornings.
Did you say you had an Aeromotive pulsation damper? Or just an Aeromotive FPR with built-in damping? If you have an actual external pulsation damper, please show us. --- To clarify about the sub-zero-start-assist system (the one that injects liquid under a certain ambient temperature). A properly working system uses a small electric motor and a weird little metering valve to inject about 1 ounce of coolant mix into the intake, on each crank. Let go of the key, the system resets, and is ready to inject another ounce on the next crank. It's intended to help build compression on a frosty motor. In reality, it didn't work well and mostly just fouled plugs. I daily drove an FC for many years in Minnesota, and I never refilled that tank. The car never needed assistance on cold mornings.
No I wish,just an fpr which isn't in yet,waiting till I do the fuel pump. The pulsation damper is removed though and no issues.
Yeah the cold start was already removed when I got the car. I ended up up blocking the coolant passage that goes from turbo to the intake, then the bottom of the block,and re routed the turbo to the cold start feed at the top of the block. Not really a performance mod but it makes taking the turbo out a hair easier.
Pulsation damper is a driveability thing. We of the retardedly oversized injector lot (who else has 550cc or 850cc injectors from the factory?) need that damper to smooth out pressure dips and spikes when the injectors close and open. It can cause inconsistency as the injectors either inject less or more than the ECU thinks it is if the pressure is fluctuating. The reason ours leak all the time is because with the large size and small number of injectors, the spikes are more violent which taxes the FPD more than most other applications.
Most FPRs have a tiny dampening effect, but it's usually negligible. It's a common misconception that the Aeromotive A1000-series FPRs are particularly good at it, because they aren't. For that matter, I don't recall any FPR that has a dampening effect strong enough to not necessitate an FPD where it was demanded. The best example of a proper external aftermarket fuel pulsation damper are those that Radium Engineering sell. I've never heard of Aeromotive offering one. You can also try kludging one off an OEM application.... say, our factory ones. Or the greatest budget FPD of them all, a really long length of fairly flexible fuel injection hose.
Also, that cold start assist mechanism was considered useless by Mazda in any fuel injected application. They released a TSB to have dealers disconnect them. You're just doing yourself a service removing the thing.
The reason the PD leaks all the time is because they are 30 years old. Nothing more, nothing less. Sometimes the little screw backs out and then rattles around in the plastic case, abrading the diaphragm. Yes, I'm sure a few leaked from the factory just like we see any sort of random failure from the factory.
It's not a drivability aid in the sense that you'd ever notice the fluctuations caused by the injectors. It's more of a consistent fueling aid. An injector snaps shut and we have a water hammer effect. If that wave is bouncing away from the other injector, less fuel may be injected. Leading to a lean condition. ECU doesn't monitor fuel pressure and doesn't care what the fuel pressure is.
The reason the PD leaks all the time is because they are 30 years old. Nothing more, nothing less. Sometimes the little screw backs out and then rattles around in the plastic case, abrading the diaphragm. Yes, I'm sure a few leaked from the factory just like we see any sort of random failure from the factory. It's not a drivability aid in the sense that you'd ever notice the fluctuations caused by the injectors. It's more of a consistent fueling aid. An injector snaps shut and we have a water hammer effect. If that wave is bouncing away from the other injector, less fuel may be injected. Leading to a lean condition. ECU doesn't monitor fuel pressure and doesn't care what the fuel pressure is.
Thanks for the replies. Mine may not have leaked, but I removed it anyways for now. The entire fuel system is stock right so I don't have a gauge hooked up ,but I'm not entirely worried about it.
08-26-16, 03:06 AM
