Another coolant thread...
Hello all hopefully not hi jacking the thread
I'm having this same problem. I usually fill up the reserve and withing a a drive the cooland buzzer starts going off which is very anoying, get to my location and the reserve is empty. I've turn on the car with out the rad cap on and there in no bobbles at all. So I went out and bought a new rad cap with the preasure release, also bought a new coolant sensor. Also bought a rad sealer since I thought there might be a leak in the rad but I don't think I will use this. Any advice is what I'm going to replace will help? Thank guys
I'm new to RX7's and this is my first which is a 88 convert non turbo, which will change in some time.
I'm having this same problem. I usually fill up the reserve and withing a a drive the cooland buzzer starts going off which is very anoying, get to my location and the reserve is empty. I've turn on the car with out the rad cap on and there in no bobbles at all. So I went out and bought a new rad cap with the preasure release, also bought a new coolant sensor. Also bought a rad sealer since I thought there might be a leak in the rad but I don't think I will use this. Any advice is what I'm going to replace will help? Thank guys
I'm new to RX7's and this is my first which is a 88 convert non turbo, which will change in some time.
dumb qestion:
i was just wondering, if u drive your car hard and
thinking about taking off the thermostat,
will the motor run cooler?
have a fluidine radiator and dual 12" fal fans
thx
i was just wondering, if u drive your car hard and
thinking about taking off the thermostat,
will the motor run cooler?
have a fluidine radiator and dual 12" fal fans
thx
Hello all hopefully not hi jacking the thread
I'm having this same problem. I usually fill up the reserve and withing a a drive the cooland buzzer starts going off which is very anoying, get to my location and the reserve is empty. I've turn on the car with out the rad cap on and there in no bobbles at all. So I went out and bought a new rad cap with the preasure release, also bought a new coolant sensor. Also bought a rad sealer since I thought there might be a leak in the rad but I don't think I will use this. Any advice is what I'm going to replace will help? Thank guys
I'm new to RX7's and this is my first which is a 88 convert non turbo, which will change in some time.
I'm having this same problem. I usually fill up the reserve and withing a a drive the cooland buzzer starts going off which is very anoying, get to my location and the reserve is empty. I've turn on the car with out the rad cap on and there in no bobbles at all. So I went out and bought a new rad cap with the preasure release, also bought a new coolant sensor. Also bought a rad sealer since I thought there might be a leak in the rad but I don't think I will use this. Any advice is what I'm going to replace will help? Thank guys
I'm new to RX7's and this is my first which is a 88 convert non turbo, which will change in some time.
The water pump pumps the coolant at varying flow rates depending on rpm. At high rpm, your engine is producing a LOT of heat. It is at these high rpms that you need the coolant to pass through slow enough to absorb this heat. Without the thermostat, it can flow too quickly and you end up overheating, without the temp sensor showing because the coolant is still cool, but your housings are overheated.
I hope this makes sense.
You're pulling coolant into your engine. Coolant seal broken in a different spot than mine. DO NOT put that radiator fix in your system. You need a rebuild just like me, but yours is a little more urgent. Perhaps the Block Weld procedure that has been hyperlinked on page 1, will help you more than it would me.
I drive my car hard, yes. The thermostat also acts as a flow regulator. Without the thermostat, you can have the coolant flowing too fast to properly exchange the heat from the housings/irons to the fluid to be cooled by the radiator. Not a good idea to remove unless in dire need.
The water pump pumps the coolant at varying flow rates depending on rpm. At high rpm, your engine is producing a LOT of heat. It is at these high rpms that you need the coolant to pass through slow enough to absorb this heat. Without the thermostat, it can flow too quickly and you end up overheating, without the temp sensor showing because the coolant is still cool, but your housings are overheated.
I hope this makes sense.
I drive my car hard, yes. The thermostat also acts as a flow regulator. Without the thermostat, you can have the coolant flowing too fast to properly exchange the heat from the housings/irons to the fluid to be cooled by the radiator. Not a good idea to remove unless in dire need.
The water pump pumps the coolant at varying flow rates depending on rpm. At high rpm, your engine is producing a LOT of heat. It is at these high rpms that you need the coolant to pass through slow enough to absorb this heat. Without the thermostat, it can flow too quickly and you end up overheating, without the temp sensor showing because the coolant is still cool, but your housings are overheated.
I hope this makes sense.
Thank you very much for the help!
if you guys do have internal leaks, follow the procedures to drain the system completely, rotate the engine to get any water out of it and add some oil to the chambers before letting the engine sit in preparation for a rebuild.
i have seen many cases where customers parked the car full of coolant for months or even years and when i finally cracked the engine open at least half of the engine was unusable due to severe rust pitting from the water sitting in the engines, costing hundreds of dollars in replacement parts. or in best case several extra days of cleaning rust off the parts(i for one don't consider that part of a normal rebuild and charge extra for it depending on how severe it is).
i have seen many cases where customers parked the car full of coolant for months or even years and when i finally cracked the engine open at least half of the engine was unusable due to severe rust pitting from the water sitting in the engines, costing hundreds of dollars in replacement parts. or in best case several extra days of cleaning rust off the parts(i for one don't consider that part of a normal rebuild and charge extra for it depending on how severe it is).
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