OK......need help...what else should i do after looking at these WAY failed #s?

or can anyone tell me if there is a matjor prob going on here:

Its A 1989 FC GXL..N/A

40km/H:

HC PPM Limit: 64 Reading: 568

CO%Limit:0.35 Reading 0.71

NO ppm: 727 Reading:551

RPM 2019
Dilution 14.4

Curb Idle:

HC PPM Limit:200 Reading: 1280

CO%Limit:1.00 Reading: 5.20

NO ppm: N/A

RPM:904
Dilution: 15.7

USED the alcohol trick....put in 1 gallon and i had around 1/8 left...i was premixing.


Sighs*....looks like really BAD failure!..

 

Cat is going south, or the ACV isnt supplying air to light the CAT off...

Plumb the Air Pump directly to the Cat.. Works everytime.

 

how can i do that?.....i pmed ice mark to which vac hose to unplug and cap..but seems to be no respond?...

anyone help me out?...wheres the hose?...detailed explaination would be nice=(

 

Here is the one for the S4.. I assume its probably the same for the S5..

 

if its same it would be nice...can u get a bigger pic for me of the whole engine bay...so i can see where the acv is located?

 

its really not hard to find.. Passenger side about halfway down the side of the motor. The pressure sensor usually runs through it..

 

gonna try to look for it=)..thanks=)

 

capping that helps?

 

yea...hope so....capping meaing capping the hose or the valve?

 

no.. plumbing it directly to the cat does.

 

if your cat is dying that won't help.
Do you have your OMP and are you also premixing?
For test purposes
Take a wiff of your exhaust.
Then run a section of 3/4" hose from the air pump to the check valve at the split air pipe.
Then go back and resample your exhaust.
If there is an improvement you know it's your ACV or a vacuum leak.
If there is no improvement you can suspect a dead cat. Summit racing had a replacement cat that went for about $173 including delivery.
Where is GTA anyway?

 

My numbers were worse than yours my TII. I replaced the ACV with a good one, warmed the cat up alot before the test and I passed with flying colours. Search 'ACV' under 'Hailers' and you'll see how to diagnose whether yours is working. Or you can probably get one from many of the people that have removed it from the car. I remember when I posted that I needed one in the Canadian Section I had alot of choices. It takes about 1 hour to replace it tops.

 

Premix affected my e-test, use .5oz of two stroke oil per 1 gallon of gas, once you pass the test, put the rest of two stroke in. Needless to say, that you SHOULD NOT race, boost, etc when doing this!!!

 

Shoot, discountconverter.com has the same one for about 128 shipped.


I passed with flying colors, and I was mixing at over 1 ounce per gallon...


Its either a dead cat or a bad ACV. Either way, getting some oxygen to the cat and maybe some alcohol will fix this problem right on up..

 

did the alcohol trick already..

didnt seem to work...and hgelp me pass wth "dlying colours" as everyoone says it does..(yea..i did alot of search on alcohol trick)

i l try to see if anyone can help me at the sund meet?...

 

Principle thing you need to understand is to have your emissions components working. Without them you have a very dirty rotary engine. Ask yourself are my emissions components working? The cat is the major one, then comes ACV then air pump. You need these to be working or else you dont pass.
There are a lot of tricks but those are the first to check then i would say oil change and when using the alcohol use it with very little gas like id say less than 1/4 tank.

 

high HC count means either bad cat or running rich.

if its the cat:

take the output off the airpump.
get a length of about 3' of 3/4" heater hose. run this directly from the airpump outlet to the split air pipe.
split air pipe is the small pipe that comes from the converter up towards the engine bay. in the engine bay it should go to rubber hose, just pull this off and plug the other end of the hose in there.

pat

 

why am i passing the NO ppm %?,

lol

 

this is what leads me to believe that you are running rich.

 

I believe that's the pic I posted of my engine/vac lines back when I was trying to pass emissions

Anyways, why not try and hook the airpump straight to the cat for just that day? Give it a little more air and possibly better readings.

 

Why does everybody just bypass the ACV valve instand of replacing the anti- draw back valve thing (i am not sure what is call), but mazdatrix use to sell it. ANd from what i remember is not that expensive. I am not talking replacing the whole unit but just the little valve that goes in the lower intake manifold. And the reason you are passing on NOx is because your car is not running hot enough to produce NOx. Which is a good thing.

 

WRONG!!

I made that pic with a pic of my old S4 N/A..

Nice try!

 

HI,
In my earlier contribution I discussed temporarily bypassing the ACV with a hose going directly back to the check valve on the split air pipe. This was meant for diagnostic purposes only. Once you finish your test put everything back to the original configuration. You may burn up your cat if you leave it connected for an extended length of time.
Also, I found it is easier to connect /disconnect the air pump hose with the ACV unbolted from the block. There's 3 fasteners, the top is easy to see but the lower two you have to take out by brail. Be careful not to damage the gasket if you're going to reuse it. When you get the hose off bolt the ACV back in place. Before you connect to the split air pipe, start the car and check for flow from the air pump. The air pumps are supposed to be fairly reliable so I'd be suprised if your air pump was the problem.

 

thanks lot guyz...hope i wi.ll be take off the hose and try to pass again...atleast i l get half price....

 

No ACV, running the air pump directly to a brand new cat (it was a high flow though), and denaturated alcohol on the tank. Failed the test, not by much, did it again with .5oz per gallon, and voila!