On my friends 79' SA it was easy as hell to put the wires through the firewall, I tryed once on mine but it didn't seem to wanna work so I just tempoaraly put the wires on the outside of the car to makesure the amp works.

I also want to rewire all the rest of the speakers, the mazda wires arnt too convient...Now I was thinking of guiding them down the side of the drivers side put the amp behind the drivers seat & mount it to the carpet then run the sub wire under the back carpet and put the sub behind the passenger seat. In my other topic I was told to remove the carpet you need to take off the dash I'm unsure if that goes for pulling up just the side of it though.

My other idea was to remove everything in the center console parts & put the wires for the rear speakers & amp cables down that section

Thx for any advise right now I'm just kind of stumped where else to go from here.

 

i ran mine down the drivers side door sill, with a bunch of factory wires. There is a convenient channel there. in order to get to it, remove the 3 pop out plastic pieces holding the kick panel down, the screws holding the door sill, and pop the edge of the carpet off.
mark

 

Thx man I'll take a look on that side and see how it looks.

Any tips for getting power to the amp? I was thinking putting my own wires directly to the batt, I'd need just pos + neg like I did for my friend I guess?

 

Maybe I'm reading this wrong but you don't need to run a ground wire back to the battery. The body of the car works.

 

Wouldn't it be a better rule of thumb just to have a ground too incase the body part that i tryed ot ground it to wasnt grounded good?

 

no not at all. if you look at the ground on the battery, it goes straight to the body, and the motor. Anywhere on the body grounds just fine, just use a wire brush or sandpaper to srip of ALL paint/primer from where you want to connect.
mark

 

Alright thx

Any tip for getting the wire connected to power?

 

Please do it correctly and run a positive and a ground from the battery to the amp. There will be no need for a capacitor because the battery itself functions as a large cap, and you will not have a problem with dimming headlights either.

 

I ran 6 gauge wire to my amp and soldered/crimped spade and ring connectors on to the ends.
BTW Home Depot, Lowes, etc. have connectors way cheaper than audio stores.

 

Just run it where the stock wiring is/was.

 

run the ground wire from the chassis , ive been doing that for about 3 years and havent had a problem , ive installed about 10 stereos in the past year and a half, from the battery it would take alot longer , more wire , i wouldnt do it

 

I used the chassis for a ground- but I also cleaned up and reinforced the grounds in the engine bay. I ran the positive cable (fairly hefty wire) through the hole the rest of the wires run through from the driver's side firewall- I had to pull off a bunch of electrical tape around the boot in the engine bay, but after that it just took some manipulation to get the wire through the rubber boot with the rest of them. This is much easier if the clutch master cylinder is not there, I imagine. The wire is run back under the door sill and then under the back cover (mine is a 'vert) to the amp.

 

Zip tie it to your rear view mirror.

 

If you have to wire to run the ground back to battery do it if it makes you feel safer but I honestly don't think there will be any difference. I'm not by any means an expert though.

 

I'm not getting a capacitor, the amp's just a 800w (rms I think) mosfet one.

I did notice when I turn it up halfway and the deck that the lights dim & the door lights flash.

 

Alright I got it going better now I just need to know how to fish the wires into the doors

Any tips thanx, I tryed this once before and failed miserably the cables just wouldnt go through it.

 

dude, **** fishing, cut into the dash speaker wires, cause, the dash speakers are crap, sound like crap, and werent thought about when mazda put them in there. um, and if the lights are dimming or the sound is distorting at high levels, then you NEED a cap, supposing that the amp is more than 3 feet away from the battery (which it is because i read the thread).
just to let you know, ive been doing installs for quite a bit of time, have about 5 full 2000-5000$ systems under my belt.
oh, i also read that someone on here grounded to the chassis..................DUH, where else would you ground it to, thats where the BATTERY is grounded.
just rant, sorry!

peace