Well I just picked up the car from the shop after a slight tune up (spark plugs, wires, brakes, oil change, new cold start sensor, new sensor for the oil pressure guage, coolant flush and I think thats it) I see the car and im so excited. Before it ran kinda rough but was very quick. I thought with this tune up it'll run even better. It even sounded great when I revved it up, hearing those rotors spinning. So I took it for a drive and I noticed it idling kinda low (500RPM) and it had lost (seemingly) a lot of its power. WTF is up with that?!?! Is it cause maybe its running to rich?? It does bog for a second in the 1k-2500 region. Is something up with the timing?? Im still new to rotary's and dont know how this tune up could of resulted in loss of power. Oh yea and thanks to piece of **** South CA weather it was about 80-85 degrees today, magically jumping after a week of being in the low 70's high 60's, ironically coinciding with the day I get my car back. Could the heat be a cause?

 

make sure the plug wires are going to the correct plug.

 

Im still kinda new, but I know the lower plugs are leading and fire twice and the trailing ones on top but which wires should lead where? I know theres two that lead to a dist. by the front right of the hood and the 2nd set are a little farther behind that.

 

By the spark plug holes are a T1(trailing 1), T2(trailing 2), L1(leading 1), or L2(leading 2). On the coils there are the same lettering/numbering system. Just match them up. I believe the coils closest to the front of the car are leading and the coils by the firewall are trailing. Just look at what is written on them.

 

Thanks a lot, I'll check those out right now

 

damn it, I checked them out right now and they lined up correctly. But when I gave it full throttle it was still hesistating for a moment. You guys have any other ideas?

 

Anyone

 

Low Idle does not sound like running rich? I have a Air Fuel Guage by HALTECH this way I can tell if I'm running rich. Usually when I'm running rich I'm Ideling high not low. Then I use the S-AFC to dial in some negative numbers to balance at 750 rpm idle. Sounds like to me your not getting enough fuel How does it idle when you first start the car?

 

I fixed the idling problem with the screw above the manifold but the lags still there in the lower RPM region. Not really lag but it almost bogs down. Let me try driving it right now.

 

I don't think your suppose to mess with that screw? Where is your mechanic? I know you want to learn the car, but do it under the watchful eye of a professional before you blow your **** up

 

nah its ok, it was the idling screw. Well I took the car out right now and it was "ok" but not what I exp'd before. He said he replaced the cold start sensor(?) before which was what kept my idle up and according to him "my car to run rich". If its running lean now, how can I tell? I dont hear pinging or any sounds of detenation and would running lean cause loss of power? id probably run into detenation before the power loss right? Thanks for the help

 

Correct me if im wrong .

Did the mechanic use OEM wires and plugs? (im assuming your car is stock) i say this because from what i undewr stand your supposed to use particular plugs a wires (resistor type) and especially on REX's . Don't buy that KRAGEN "OEM" stuff it won't work trust me I did and my FC ran like **** so I went to the dealer and bought MAZDA OEM and my stock FC runs perfect.

 

I'm using NGK resistor plugs(i believe these are the same plugs that they used from the factory) and NGK wires and my 7 runs great except for a hesitation @ 2500 - 3500 RPM, which i believe i might have fixed friday morning.

 

Could it be the timing?

 

is htere any way that you could give me a better description of the "lag" and a little narrower engine speed

 

It could well be the timing. My friend SW1 had a similar problem. I adjusted the timing and found a few vacuum leaks and whoala! All better.

 

ahhh this sucks Just when I was beginning to think the problem with the lag was just me, something very shameful happened......... a civic stayed within a bus length of me . Guys I need help, I cant fall back to racing with civics. Well the problem is more specifically now, that it doesnt seem to pull nearly as hard as it did a couple of days ago. I checked the spark plug wires and they dont look or say anything about being Mazda OEM so that could be one possibilty, but im thinking it might have to do more with timing or a/f ratio. The cold start sensor was messed up before (when it was running strong) but was replaced, maybe a part of the problem now?? But the car turns on fine and now idles at 800 and starts after about 2 or 3 cranks. It doesnt idle very smoothly nor rev down smoothly ie letting off the gas in lower RPMs in 2nd or 3rd. Im really confused and I dont want this BS problem hindering the FC's potential. Anyone in South CA (OC) think they might be able to help?? I really appreciate all your replies, thanks again guys.

 

I guess im just gonna give rotary reliabilty a call tomorrow morning and see what they have to say. Could it be the tps??

 

Could be any of the above... but coupled with you other problem, I think it is:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=70434

This is only provided you actually ARE detonating...
Sean Cathcart