2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Am I missing something?

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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 11:36 AM
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From: Ft. Collins
Am I missing something?

Doing the brakes on the 7, I'm at the rear right now and rotor will not come off. Caliper is off along with the two screws in the rotor. Is there anything else that needs to come off? I've beat it with a hammer and I'm lost.
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 12:02 PM
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did you take the caliper bracket off in order to allow the rotor to come off?
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 12:09 PM
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From: Ft. Collins
Originally Posted by misterstyx69
did you take the caliper bracket off in order to allow the rotor to come off?
yes the entire caliper setup with braket is off. Nothing is interfering that I can see
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 12:29 PM
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get a bigger hammer.
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 12:46 PM
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penetrating blaster
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 01:12 PM
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Bigger hammer is right!
When you put the new rotor on, grease the inside where it contacts the hub to make it easier to take off in the future.
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 01:30 PM
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From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
I wouldn't suggest Grease.I would be concerned about the heat making the grease able to contact the rotor if it gets hot.
I have used a coating of anti-seize.Just brush it on.
It works real good,especially on the Front rotors and we all know how hard they are to get of when they have been on a long time!
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by misterstyx69
I wouldn't suggest Grease.I would be concerned about the heat making the grease able to contact the rotor if it gets hot.
I have used a coating of anti-seize.Just brush it on.
It works real good,especially on the Front rotors and we all know how hard they are to get of when they have been on a long time!
Good point, it's something I didn't mention because it's second nature now. If you do choose to use grease, make sure it's high temp brake grease.
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 02:58 PM
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From: Ft. Collins
Get them off bigger hammer worked. Now can't get the piston to depress all the way because I don't have the right tool. Any suggestions there? I used the biggest c-clamp I have and it won't budge
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 03:53 PM
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Needlenose pliers will work in a pinch. Go slow.
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 03:58 PM
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From: Ft. Collins
Originally Posted by RXSpeed16
Needlenose pliers will work in a pinch. Go slow.
I tried pliers too. I loosened the bleed valve too and still no dice. Maybe seized?
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 03:58 PM
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Cant use a C clamp on the rears to push them in. They are spin type if I remember correctly.
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 04:02 PM
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From: Mile High
Originally Posted by driftxsequence
Cant use a C clamp on the rears to push them in. They are spin type if I remember correctly.
Yes, they thread in.
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 04:11 PM
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From: Ft. Collins
Am I missing something?-image-2883299194.jpg

So I literally just have to turn them?
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 04:32 PM
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yes, clockwise to screw them in.
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 05:43 PM
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The two notches on the piston face are there to receive a tool for rotating it.
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 05:54 PM
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Caliper piston tool comes in so handy.
If you use pliers it can slip off and tear the seal.
Did that one day and I said" **** this"...and bought the tool.
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 06:26 PM
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From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
Originally Posted by VANHALEN
Caliper piston tool comes in so handy.
If you use pliers it can slip off and tear the seal.
Did that one day and I said" **** this"...and bought the tool.
which is THIS tool right here:
piston+caliper+tool - JEGS High Performance
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 06:44 PM
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you can find the 'magic box' at just about any auto parts store, our car isn't the only one to use the twisting caliper design.
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 09:09 PM
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From: Ft. Collins
Thank you all for the help!
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