Alternator question, N/A to turbo.
#1
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,315
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Alternator question, N/A to turbo.
So all is not well in the land of the rotary...
Everything is fine, the car runs great and all...but the battery is not charging.
My alternator is not working...or so I think. I used an N/A alternator of the same year, would that be a reason why its not charging? Or maybe I didn't plug it right since I used a TII harness...Or maybe the alternatopr is just faulty...
How do I check to see if it works fine but its just not pluged right?
Thanks!
Everything is fine, the car runs great and all...but the battery is not charging.
My alternator is not working...or so I think. I used an N/A alternator of the same year, would that be a reason why its not charging? Or maybe I didn't plug it right since I used a TII harness...Or maybe the alternatopr is just faulty...
How do I check to see if it works fine but its just not pluged right?
Thanks!
#2
2 Rotors, 1 Turbo
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 1,099
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The alternator should shoot out 12v while it is working. Get it tested is all I can say. I've done it before with a multimeter, I like got a car running and unplugged the alternator and let it run off the battery and checked to see if the alternator is putting out voltage. Something like that.
The plug on the back of the alternator is for the car to know whether or not the alternator is working. Go to www.rotaryresurrection.com and check out the tech section on turbo swaps. You have to run 2 new wires for that to work. If you don't, all the idiot lights stay on all the time because it thinks the alternator is bad.
The plug on the back of the alternator is for the car to know whether or not the alternator is working. Go to www.rotaryresurrection.com and check out the tech section on turbo swaps. You have to run 2 new wires for that to work. If you don't, all the idiot lights stay on all the time because it thinks the alternator is bad.
Last edited by MidnightOwl; 06-04-07 at 08:53 PM. Reason: added super cool alternator wiring information!
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: USA/Mass
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
take it up to an auto store and have it tested.... just bring some tools with you pop it out when you get there and pop it back in when you get out... hell even if its bad I was able to drive an hour without dieing and it was still running strong lol (though it did get low enough to make a noise at me) i just couldnt have anything extra on
#5
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,315
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nevermind...I'm a dumb s.o.b.
I never bolted in the wire on top...The rubber cap was on there so it didn't show...
I screwed it in, started the car and unplugged the battery and everything is fine...
I never bolted in the wire on top...The rubber cap was on there so it didn't show...
I screwed it in, started the car and unplugged the battery and everything is fine...
#6
The Cause of Death
The alternator should shoot out 12v while it is working. Get it tested is all I can say. I've done it before with a multimeter, I like got a car running and unplugged the alternator and let it run off the battery and checked to see if the alternator is putting out voltage. Something like that.
Alternators, for any car, should throw out 14.6v. The battery, if fully charged, should be 12.6.
If you want to test an alternator start the car, check the voltage at the B+ terminal. If it's ~14v + or - ~.6v you're in good shape. Better to be a bit above 14 than below, though.
James
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
The Shaolin
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
9
09-14-15 07:50 PM