I've got an FD ALT on my TII.

AT start up the Alternator doesn't charge. Once I blip the throttle over say 2K it kicks on with an audible Whir. The pulley is moving during this whole time.
I'll see 12v during this non charging state. Then once i give it throttle it will go to 13.5.
Any one have this happen before? The ALT toast?

I have the stock and my own wire going to the main fuse from the B post.
The
The L wire goes to my stock harness/idiot lights
The S wire is then connected to the B post with a fuse inline(not blown)


I found this schematic.
SHoudl I be using the EGI fuse VS the B post? To me it looks like the same thing.

 

Take it to an auto electrician and have it checked out. It should be charging anytime it's spinning.

It shouldn't make any noticeable noise either. Sounds like bad bearings.

Mine.

As long as it's fused it should be fine.

 

It's kind of baffling me. I figure it's gotta be something intneral to the Alt.

I may just swap back to the S4 Alt and get this one reman'd or buy a new one.

S4's are teh suck with headlights and a subwoofer

 

same thing was happening with mine and I discovered that the tension on the pulley wasnt enough.

 

^^good one. I wouldn't have thought of the belt tension.

 

Try this (it's in the FSM also): Get your meter out. Put it's neg lead on a known gnd point. By hook or crook, put the positive meter lead in the backside of the L terminal (use a paper clip if needed or sewing needle). The small plug MUST be connected to the alternator when doing this.

Turn the key to ON, ENGINE OFF. Just the key to ON.

The meter should read b/t one and three volts. This is the *field* voltage required to get the damn thing excited to put out normal voltage once the alt gets spinning.

No 1-3 volts???? Dead regualtor or there is no batt voltage going to the *R* terminal (which feeds the internal regulator). Check the *R* terminal the same way as you did the L terminal. Key to ON and engine OFF, plug on the alternator (this is a must).

I've a car that the needle on the gauge does not move when the engine is running (sometimes). I have to rap on the face of the combination meter to get the gauges needle to hop up to 14vdc. It's an anomaly I plan to fix...........someday, some year, some decade...........maybe.

 

Corey,

Nicks black FC does the same thing, hes got an FD alt too. So if you figure it out first let me know

 

My alternator on my FD does it too. I am thinking I need a new alternator because there are times when it will drop to 12 volts on the PFC while idling and this causes my wideband to give me a "not adequate voltage error" and also makes it so the water injection pump wont turn on (the circuit board for that whole system requires a constant 12 volt source. I think the current is dropping too low and killing all these components.

I am thinking of upgrading to a 200amp alternator to solve the problem. Unless one of you ya'll figure out why it is doing it...

 

same problem here. i just don't give a **** enough about it.

 

mine does the same thing but not all the time. It only seems to do it after the car has sat for a few days and not been started. I am curious to know why also.

 

Same issue here, however I am running a full underdrive pulley kit, and I have a pineapple alt relocation kit. I have taken the alt to autozone (twice), and it tested good.

BTW - My FC is a 91

 

Corey i have a spare s5 alternator

 

Any auto store will test your alternator for free. Also check your belt tension. I'll bet it's a loose belt or an intermittent electrical component inside the alternator.

 

I'm gettiing .66 volts from the L terminal with the key in the on position but engine off. So I guess bad regulator.

Well, I'll just put my S4 one on for now.

 

When I first start my car in the morning and the alternator is cool, it puts out 14v at idle. When the alternator heat soaks I get down to 12.2v with the A/C on. When I shut the A/C off this voltage increases to 13.4v... This has numerous and widespread affects on the car.

When the voltage is low, the cooling fans in the engine bay spin with less speed at each setting. 14.4v to a fan spins it a full 20% faster than 12.2v. This applies to the A/C blower fan too. The car is more apt to hesitate on acceleration, my wideband will give me errors at the low voltage, my Aux. Inj. pump wont kick on, and there have even been misfires at higher rpm. Proper voltage is definately necessary. I will let you know if a high output alternator fixes my issues, as I just ordered one and should have it installed before the weekend.

 

Yeah. And when you get the series four on, try the voltage at the L terminal, and if that alternator is any good, it will show 1-3vdc with the key ON, engine OFF, and the plug on the alternator (backprobe the L wire in the plug). That'll confirm you were checking things out right on the other alternator. Sort of a double check.

 

swapped it back in and saw 1.3V on one post and 12v on the other.

Now to fix my damn slow cranking and fucked tps