I've done the search and understand the all idiots lights lit mean bad alternator, but my headlights are out, not dim, out and when I checked the dash voltage gage it showed registering at the top of the scale, max voltage reading. The headlight motors work just fine and all other running lights and brake lights are on. WIth these symptoms should I expect other prolems than a bad alternator? Belt is still on and all fuses in the engine bay fuse block seemed to be good.

 

With the car running, check the voltage at the battery teminals. Should be 13V at least, which means your alt is probably OK.

 

The alternator and battery both check out fine and all fuses appear to be in good shape. Idiot lights come on and then will go off and then they'll all come on again. Maybe a short in the headlight wiring somewhere? For a while when the lights were off I'd get a check engine light when I'd step on the clutch pedal to change gears, mu voltage gage is still showing pegged out at the top of the scale. Too much voltage from the alternator?

 

you have been attacked by a Fc electrical gremin.....test the fuses with a OHM meter

 

I think you need to check to see if the small plug on the back of the alternator is secure and in good shape. Then make sure the larger wire that feeds the battery thru the fuse box is secure at the alternator and at the fuse box in the engine bay.

Then check that the terminals on the battery are on good, taking a good look at the positive terminal and making sure the wires are attached good to the terminal.

By saying the battery and the alternator check good..........just how was that figured out? By checking personally with a meter? Or some shop?

I never could figure out what the reference to the headlights had to do with this. Do they work? Or not? Or???

 

Wow...you sounded just like me a few years back....like word for word. Ne ways, i've experienced the same symptoms...you might want to replace your bad alt. and as well as your headlights. Alt. checked out fine ONLY on idle. Try reving your engine while checking it agian. Also both my headlights blew out cause bad alt. was over loading them. So i drove on them on highbeam...and they eventually burned out too. Also get a new belt and make sure it's on tight but not too tight. If you have a manual, you should be able to find a good tension rate.

-just a suggestion

 

Alternator checked by Autozone and I also checked it with my multimeter. Battery also checked at Autozone and was good. I will be picking up a new/rebuilt alt. today. As far as the headlights I began yesterday checking back from the headlights to the battery. I found that neither headlight showed any continuity on the multimeter, no reaction on any combination of the three prongs, I assumed that indicated a headlight problem. Next I tested the headlight plugs and when the headlights were turned on they showed no power at the plug but I did have power going into the relay from the battery side, possible bad relay not delivering power to the headlights. I then replaced the headlights with some I'd used for a while and were known good. I think I have a bad relay which I can get replacements at a local Auto Retirement Center.

I sounds like the alternator replacement and a working relay should cure my problems. Thanks for your reply 'cause it sounds like the exact same symptoms. I also think that the alternator output spiked and fried the headlights, but I don't understand why it didn't kill the fuse before the surge hit the lights? I did test all the fuses and they showed good continuity but I will be replacing the 30 amp fuses in the engine bay.

I have a Haynes manual that helped me trace out the wiring from the battery to the headlights and will be following it pretty closely.

Again thanks for the information and I'll let you know how it goes.

I checked the headlight relay and

 

Replaced Alternator and solved the idiot light problems. Alt was overcharging system and burned out the headlights, I've replace both headlights, the headlight relay and the related 30a fuses in the fuse block in the engine bay and the illum 15a fuse in the fuse block, under the dash.

Still do not have any headlights, when I use the headlight switch they do not pop up or come on, all running lights and turn signals work and the headlight retract,extend switch works and will pop them up and retract them.

Anyone have this problem and what am I missing in the wiring that might keep power from getting to the retract motors and to the headlights when the headlight switch is used?

I'll be using the FSM trouble shooting recommendations this weekend to properly test all relays, grounds and wiring until I find the problem.

 

Replace headlight switch.

 

Update, Light switch, all interior and marker lights work, it is just the final click that nothing happens. No headlight pop up, and no headlights on. I can pull the dimmer switch and the highbeam will come on on both heads. So if I use the cleaner switch I get the headlights up and by pulling the dimmer switch I can keep the high beams on. If I let the dimmer switch go the headlight go off. I do not get a click and the high beams will not stay on unless I hold the dimmer switch lever back. Do these symptoms point to the dimmer relay or to a light switch problem? I haven't had time to test the relays according to the FSM procedures yet, will do this tonight or tomorrow.

Anyone explain why the headlights will pop up using the cleaner switch but not with the light switch?

 

my alternator was bad but checked good a few times. i went through 3 alternators in 2 months, this was due to my amp which has since been stolen so no more alternator problems. buy a new alternator and if it does not fix the problem take it back. only took me about 10 min to change it out each time.

 

You're right, I changed the alternator and took care of the idiot lights but still got this headlight problem. I'll be checking grounds, wiring, and the relays to find the problem, just thought that the headlights working on the cleaning switch and not working with the light switch might point to an obvious component or place to check.

 

There might be a relay for the headlights...if so I bet that's toasted.

 

If the pop up switch pops up the lights, but the lightswitch won't then I'd say its a problem with the switch itself and will need to be replaced.

 

there is a relay on my s5 although i have not actually taken it out. it is in the fron, one of the 3 or 4 black boxes i believe.

 

Got the trouble shooting procedures for the headlights, relays and checked the headlights, they are good and show continuity and no power to the light plug. All fuses show continuity and look intact. I checked the headlight relay according to the procedure in the FSm and it is good, it clicks with power is applied and shows proper continuity. I then checked the dimmer relay, same results, good continuity and tests good under power. The headlight cleaner switch makes the headlights pop up and go down at the proper time, I even manually turned the know under the motors and get strong resistance in one direction and the headlights will auto cycle up and down when I turn it in the other direction. According to the FSM that leaves only the light switch and it operates the all running lights but will not turn headlights on or make them pop up when turned all the way. Since all this started after the alternator went bad and started over charging can I assume that the light switch, at least the headlight contacts got fried?

Icemark do you have rebuilt light switches for an 89 GTU? I guess while I am at it I should replace the wiper control switch as well since it only has one speed that still operates. How much for a matching set of switches?

 

Thought I'd bring this thread to a conclusion by posting the resolution to this problem. Don't you hate it when you search and find a discussion with the problem you're having but all you read is suggestions. No one bothered to complete the thread by posting the finaly conclusion as to how they fixed their problem or that all they tried didn't fix it and they had to take it to a mechanic or, were humiliated and had to take it to a Mazda dealer!

Well, not this time. I have everything fixed that was wrong and I even found another problem that I fixed in the process.

SYMPTOM: All Idiot lights on
PROBLEM: Bad voltage from the alternator, bad alternator.
FIX: Replaced the alternator from Carquest,
COST: $137.00

SYMPTOM: Headlights would not come on or pop up when activated by the light switch but all running lights come on.
-Headlights would pop up with the headlight cleaner switch.
PROBLEM: Could be dimmer relay, headlight relay, bad ground, or bad light switch.
FIX: Ran all the trouble shooting tests as described in the FSM.
-Checked the headlight relay, it tested good.
-Checked the dimmer relay, it also tested good.
-Checked the headlights, Sylvania Silverstars, and they were both blown. Replaced the headlights with the pair I had before I changed to silverstars.
-By elimination, that left only the ground and the light switch as possible problems. I ordered a rebuilt light switch from IceMark and while I was at it ordered a rebuilt wiper switch as well. Installed the new switches and I now have fully functioning headlights.
COST: $75 for new light switch.

Also have fully functional wipers now for the first time since owning the car. I'll still Rain X the windshield and rear hatch just because that is a better way to get rid of the water than using wipers. But I've got 'em if I ever need 'em.

When I removed the instrument cluster cowl I found that both of the tabs that hold the bottom of the cowl to the dash had broken off and that's why the cowl was so loose. I made a couple of new tabs and attached them to the plastic frame that the cowl is screwed to and now it is much more stable and secure than its been in a while. No cost to this, just some time figuring out how to replace the broken retaining tabs.

Altogether the entire job took about 4 hours and I not only have a working car again but it is better than it was before I started. I got it all done for less than the price of a new light switch from Mazda and had a lot of fun doing it.

 

I bet Ashraf had to help you!! J/K I replaced my Alt but my idiot lights are still dimmly lit. I'm charging around 14 amps.

 

No he didn't but I will galdly give him credit for his recommendation to change out brake fluid. The stuff that I had in the brake system for who knows how long was full of crude. That was probably why I was able to keep my car on the track at VIR, oh that's right you were drifting! That made a world of difference in braking, well that and a new master cylinder.

According to my research in the FSM http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...cal_System.pdf
the 14.1 - 14.7 V/60+ amps should be good, I'd check the system grounds and the battery terminals, clean everything and run the trouble shooting tests in the FSM. Sounds like its not reading the current it is looking for or there could be a problem with the wiring harness to the idiot light cluster. Or you could send Ashraf a PM and get him to help diagnose the problem for you.

 

Thanks: But Id rather have a root canal. I unhooked the alarm or tried too and then I hooked it back up. This is tied in to the light cluster, I need to check this when I get a min.

Take care
Johny

 

The only other thing I could suggest is to check your belt tension, no the alternator belt, just in case its a little loose or it could need replacement if it is slipping.