How do i get it off? Im trying to get to the turbo intake pipe to see if its cracked, but i cant get the thing off! i removed the hose going to the air pump but i cant get the one going to the turbo off. i want to disconnect it at the turbo. any suggestions?

 

You checked the haynes manual and FSM?

 

the extent of the FSM's wisdom is "2. Remove the Air Intake Box Assembly"

 

lol, ok
Do you have the haynes manual, though? I'll go check it out and see if its better. Otherwise, I have no idea.
Edit: I don't even know what to look for. Hopefully a turbo guy will chime in.

 

no haynes manual...yea if you could check real quick it would be much appreciated

 

what page on the fsm is it? Maybe then I can figure out what it is to look for.

 

undo the hose clamp on the afm, unplug the afm, unplug the air pump feed line,remove 3 bolts, and pull it out. I think I pretty much covered it

 

its page 1-12. mainly what i need to know is how to remove the main intake hose from the turbo inlet.

 

Okay i got the turbo inlet hose out and i think i found the source of my problems. Its a split in the hose, like longways as it enters the turbo. Would this cause a bouncy idle? One problem though, im not sure if it was like that before or if i damaged it during removal. Is there any way to do a quick fix on this until i can make it to a mazda dealer? unless you know someone whos selling an S4 TII turbo inlet pipe...

 

is duct tape heat resistant? damn i need to drive tonight and this is my daily driver, any help?

 

If the split is between the air flow meter and the intake manifold, it can very well cause a rough idle. Duct tape is not heat resistant, but it should be OK for a short time. A dealer will charge you an arm and leg to replace the hose, BTW. Better to replace it yourself with a used unit or new unit from a discount Mazda parts dealer or fabricate one yourself.

 

does it have to be rubber? would a stainless piece work?

 

That's absolutely the cause. It's a very common problem.

Duct tape will work as a stop-gap mesure in the short term, but you need to repair it properly.

Probably the most cost effective thing to do is simply make a new one out of ABS plumbing supplies. Most of the turbo inlet ducts by now are getting very brittle so a used piece is kind of a gamble.

 

i did a quick patch job with duct tape and replaced the rusted hose clamp with a new stainless one, and it still bounces! before it didnt idle at all, now it does a little, but still bounces. and it still does at stoplights. should i try readjusting the TPS?