Archangels

i'm confused....

i got my mechanic to install it and to check all the wiring, he didnt test what kinda voltage is going to the fuel pump....

from what i know the readings on the AF guage moved more to the rich side after the install....

Archangels

stupid not being able to edit....

do you think i may be having this problem...?

oh and my mechanci checked all the wiring and the wiring was in good condition....

NZConvertible

Ted, I can't believe you haven't rewired your fuel pump! From memory my voltages increased from ~8V and ~11V before the rewire to ~10V and 14V afterwards. And the voltage change was very consistant, always at ~3psi boost.

Archangels, I highly recommend you rewire the pump. Do it soon!

http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/rewire.htm

If you search around you'll find the wiring diagram I drew that makes this much easier to do.

Archangels

eww this sounds like a hard thing to do, i'm not up for tinkering around near my fuel pump and all, thats the problem....

so what difference will it make re-wiring my fuel pump...?

RETed

It's been a combination of things and a long story...

I do have a Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump that I *thought* it was working, but if the stupid relay doesn't switch over, the B.A.P. does not do anything if voltage is under 9.0VDC...which it is.

On top of that, I found out the B.A.P. was submerged under some rain water.
It might be dead.

It took me a while, but I finally got my hands on a 45mm (old) HKS voltmeter!
I've always wanted one, but they have been discontinued for a while now, which made them harder to get.


-Ted

Archangels

sounds like a hell of a situation dude, i like the old skool HKS guages, though i wouldnt plan on trying to replace mine with those, will take way too long, there super rare i believe....

NZConvertible

It's not that hard and you don't actually go near the fuel pump. If you can do simple electrical work (running wires, matching wire colours, soldering, crimping) then this a pretty easy job.

Voltage at the pump will be higher and voltage drop caused by other electrical loads (headlights, fans) will be much less. It is highly recommended on modified Turbos, particularly if you have an upgraded fuel pump that draws more current than the stock one (which you do). The voltage figures Ted and I posted prove this. I'll be gald to offer advice on doing this if you need it.

Archangels

for sure dude, i'll be planning this in my near future!...

every time i race my car i make sure the minimum is on, when i'm at the track i have nothing on except for my lights....

tonight when i had my lights and that on my AF guage dropped.... just like when i have my foot on the brake or my turn signals on....

anything to worry about that?...

RETed

Yeah, basically the car sat for about 2 years by itself (not my choice).
Previous to that, it was running fine.
After it sat around so long, that lean problem popped up.

I pulled my rear wiper motor, and there's a hole in my rear windshield.
The B.A.P. was sitting in the rear driver's side corner in the hatch.
Rain would build up and make a pool back there.
So the B.A.P. was covered with a couple inches or rain water back there!
Doh, my fault!

I've got two 2-1/16" VDO voltmeters, but I wanted something more compact than 2".
Japan 45mm gauges (especially voltmeters) are HARD to find!
I think only HKS and Omori made them.
Finding an Omori dealer in the U.S. was next to impossible.
Man, I just happened to luck out on eBay on finding that HKS 45mm voltmeter searching under "FC3S" of all things!

When I finish with my special "gauge project", you'll understand why I wanted the 45mm gauge so bad.


-Ted

Archangels

cant wait to see it dude!...

Omori must be very rare, i've never heard of it, hahahaha....