2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Air in clutch line.?

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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 04:12 PM
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Air in clutch line.?

What's the best way to take air out of ur clutch line? I know for sure it's not leaking and I have to idea how it has air in it cause when i'm driving, the clutch pedal sometimes get stuck and I have to pull it back up with my feet. So what's the best way to take air out ur clutch line?
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 04:19 PM
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i saw you driving downtown last weekend...i wondered who it was.
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 04:25 PM
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The normal bleeding procedure.

One cup of brake fluid, one rubber hose, one 8mm(?) wrench for the slave bleed screw & one helper to press the pedal. Open the valve, press the pedal, close the valve, bring the pedal back up.
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 07:19 PM
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So u put the tube on the bleeder n the other in the cup with fluids and put it back forth while the bleeder Had the tube connected?
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 07:21 PM
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bad slave cylinder?
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by nopistonsPWR
So u put the tube on the bleeder n the other in the cup with fluids and put it back forth while the bleeder Had the tube connected?
The tube is clamped onto the bleeder screw, and the other end is submerged below the fluid level in the cup. When the pedal is pressed down, fluid and hopefully air bubbles will come out into the cup. Close the bleeder to prevent sucking in air when the pedal is brought back up again. Repeat & make sure the clutch fluid level doesn't drop too low, or you'll put new bubbles in the system.
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 08:20 PM
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That's what I'm guessing also. But which onee can it
Be, master slave cylender or slave cylender? How can u tell?
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 09:51 PM
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(1) Have a friend pump the pedal and hold it down while you open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. Use a clear piece of tube to observe the fluid as it exits and watch for air bubbles.

(2) Close the valve, tell friend to release pedal.

(3) Go back to 1 until you stop seeing air bubbles.


**The line isn't long and should only take 3-4 pump to completely replace all the fluid in the line. Watch the reservoir and don't let it run dry.



That said, its not air in the line that is causing the pedal to stick to the floor. The seal in your clutch master cylinder is going bad and allowing fluid to bypass it. Rebuild the CMC or replace it. To verify the problem, hold the clutch pedal to the floor with the engine off. Wait a minute. If the pedal is stuck to the floor your seals in the CMC are bad.
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 10:27 PM
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press pedal

open screw

close screw

depress pedal


thats proper procedure.
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 10:30 PM
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You should just replace both master and slave. If you have to do one might as well do the other. You really don't need a helper even. Stick the hose into a bottle with fluid at the bottom submerging the hose completely. Then pump the pedal a few times, refill master, then pump a few more times, repeat. Then close the bleeder screw. Now pump the pedal and your good to go. Don't strip your brake line fittings!
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 1SWEET7
You should just replace both master and slave. If you have to do one might as well do the other. You really don't need a helper even. Stick the hose into a bottle with fluid at the bottom submerging the hose completely. Then pump the pedal a few times, refill master, then pump a few more times, repeat. Then close the bleeder screw. Now pump the pedal and your good to go. Don't strip your brake line fittings!
The piston in the MC doesn't allow fresh fluid to replace the volume it displaces when you depress the pedal. Pushing down on the clutch pedal compresses the fluid. Releasing the pedal allows the same fluid that was in the line to return to where it started. The idea is to bleed (replace) all the fluid in the line and remove any air that is trapped in the line. Since you are bleeding from a position lower than the reservoir the air will rise and stay around the piston in the MC unless you quickly force the fluid out of the line. That is why you open and close the bleeder while pumping the pedal in between.

Was that clear?
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 11:34 PM
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I don't see why the air would stay at the MC when the fluid is pushing it through the line and out into the bottle. I pump my pedal by hand about 6 times pretty firmly, fill the MC up then repeat a few cycles. I replaced my MC today and there is zero air in my line. There is just so little actual line to have air hiding. I do see the benefit on bleeding brakes and I do it that way every time.
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Old Jun 7, 2009 | 05:07 PM
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Finally got a new clutch master cylinder and it fixed the problem. So easy to install. N if u install it make sure u close cap on the fluid container. Stupid me spend five min trying to get pressure on the clutch peddle until I close it with the cap.
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Old Jun 7, 2009 | 07:17 PM
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Haha nice. Keep up the good work and enjoy it.
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 06:13 AM
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going thru the same thing as we speak. Thanks for all the info
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Old Jun 11, 2009 | 10:04 AM
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Don't strip your brake line fittings!
Also...there is a great write up in the archives about rebuilding your slave and master clutch cylinder. I strongly suggest both be done at the same time.
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