Aftermarket flywheel: balancing needed? (searched)
01-07-10, 11:51 AM
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Aftermarket flywheel: balancing needed? (searched)
I am thinking about installing an aftermarket flywheel in my S4 N/A track car (aluminium fidanza one).
I have read in the forum that I will need an auto S4 rear counterweight
My question is: would it be necessary to balance the whole assembly (crankshaft, cw and fw)?
Or can I just install the aftermarket fw with the auto cw without worrying about balancing?
I will put a turbocharger, ecu, afm, map and injectors from a turbo S4 and a 6 puck clutch kit. Will then be worthwhile the aftermarket flywheel?
Any info/opinion is welcomed
Thanks
I have read in the forum that I will need an auto S4 rear counterweight
My question is: would it be necessary to balance the whole assembly (crankshaft, cw and fw)?
Or can I just install the aftermarket fw with the auto cw without worrying about balancing?
I will put a turbocharger, ecu, afm, map and injectors from a turbo S4 and a 6 puck clutch kit. Will then be worthwhile the aftermarket flywheel?
Any info/opinion is welcomed
Thanks
01-07-10, 01:14 PM
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s4 auto counterweight(since the internals are s4).and your Fidanza flyhwheel./good to go.
make sure the clutch matches the flywheel and application.
you cannot put an N/A clutch on a TII aftermarket flywheel and then put it in a N.A trans..etc.
make sure the clutch matches the flywheel and application.
you cannot put an N/A clutch on a TII aftermarket flywheel and then put it in a N.A trans..etc.
01-09-10, 09:09 AM
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Ok, thanks for the info
I was scared of having an accident like that due to an unbalanced flywheel:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2pz1PkhAo8
I was scared of having an accident like that due to an unbalanced flywheel:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2pz1PkhAo8
01-09-10, 12:52 PM
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^
Look at what's inside the bell housing. You've got the flywheel, the clutch disc, and the pressure plate. All three are bolted together. If one of those fails, it usually results in that whole assembly coming apart.
Also remember that since it's bolted to the crank shaft, it's all spinning at the speed that's indicated on the tach.
Now, sit in the driver's seat. Where is the bell housing? Right near your gas pedal. You see in that video how the flywheel and other parts tore through the hood like nothing... Imagine if it exited sideways. It will shred through the transmission tunnel like nothing as well... Then, your ankle.
This is part of the reason I commented on your other thread regarding swapping ECUs for the higher rev limit...
Here's another:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SP3EIHp3AqE
The good thing is that aluminum is much lighter than the stock steel... But if you're going to be spending lots of time at close to redline RPM, consider a ballistics blanket and scatter shield to contain debris and direct it toward the ground in the event of a failure like these.
Look at what's inside the bell housing. You've got the flywheel, the clutch disc, and the pressure plate. All three are bolted together. If one of those fails, it usually results in that whole assembly coming apart.
Also remember that since it's bolted to the crank shaft, it's all spinning at the speed that's indicated on the tach.
Now, sit in the driver's seat. Where is the bell housing? Right near your gas pedal. You see in that video how the flywheel and other parts tore through the hood like nothing... Imagine if it exited sideways. It will shred through the transmission tunnel like nothing as well... Then, your ankle.
This is part of the reason I commented on your other thread regarding swapping ECUs for the higher rev limit...
Here's another:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SP3EIHp3AqE
The good thing is that aluminum is much lighter than the stock steel... But if you're going to be spending lots of time at close to redline RPM, consider a ballistics blanket and scatter shield to contain debris and direct it toward the ground in the event of a failure like these.
01-09-10, 02:13 PM
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^
Look at what's inside the bell housing. You've got the flywheel, the clutch disc, and the pressure plate. All three are bolted together. If one of those fails, it usually results in that whole assembly coming apart.
Also remember that since it's bolted to the crank shaft, it's all spinning at the speed that's indicated on the tach.
Now, sit in the driver's seat. Where is the bell housing? Right near your gas pedal. You see in that video how the flywheel and other parts tore through the hood like nothing... Imagine if it exited sideways. It will shred through the transmission tunnel like nothing as well... Then, your ankle.
This is part of the reason I commented on your other thread regarding swapping ECUs for the higher rev limit...
Here's another:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SP3EIHp3AqE
The good thing is that aluminum is much lighter than the stock steel... But if you're going to be spending lots of time at close to redline RPM, consider a ballistics blanket and scatter shield to contain debris and direct it toward the ground in the event of a failure like these.
Look at what's inside the bell housing. You've got the flywheel, the clutch disc, and the pressure plate. All three are bolted together. If one of those fails, it usually results in that whole assembly coming apart.
Also remember that since it's bolted to the crank shaft, it's all spinning at the speed that's indicated on the tach.
Now, sit in the driver's seat. Where is the bell housing? Right near your gas pedal. You see in that video how the flywheel and other parts tore through the hood like nothing... Imagine if it exited sideways. It will shred through the transmission tunnel like nothing as well... Then, your ankle.
This is part of the reason I commented on your other thread regarding swapping ECUs for the higher rev limit...
Here's another:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SP3EIHp3AqE
The good thing is that aluminum is much lighter than the stock steel... But if you're going to be spending lots of time at close to redline RPM, consider a ballistics blanket and scatter shield to contain debris and direct it toward the ground in the event of a failure like these.
I am very concerned about that kind of accidents, thanks for the advise man.
I think I am gonna stay with the stock FW and spend the money in the clutch disc and pressure plate, ceramic 6 puck ACT one probably.
For the turbocharger options (stock boost), I am thinking about stock NA ECU with water-methanol injection and timing retarded, or S4 T2 ECU+AFM+MAP+injectors also with water-methanol injection and no intercooler for minimizing the turbo lag. What do you think about it?
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