JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Hey everyone,

Here's the background:
89 vert w/ JDM 13B swap. Because it's a S5 I wired in my Clifford G5 Arrow to work with the OEM alarm. S5 have the alarm in the CPU at the driver kick panel, not under the glovebox like S4. I added a DEI door lock actuator to the driver's side and use it only for auto-unlock when disarming the alarm. When I arm the alarm I push the inner door lock for factory alarm, then arm the Clifford after closing the door and holding the handle.

Here's some links to threads I've had in the past...

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=787406&highlight=alarm

this one is older and probably not as relevant
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ighlight=alarm

Has anyone got any advice on possibly a better choice to mount the actuator? Or possibly better way to mount the metal rod to the actuator and OEM lock rod (for lack of a better word)? Right now the actuator is set so that it is fully retracted when the door is locked and partially extends when remotely operated. Would it be better to have the actuator set more in the middle of it's movement range? I disconnected the actuator to keep myself from having to find another replacement door lock mechanism.

Thanks

NinjaGUYdan

Mount it so it is inline with how the rod will move. Any added resistance will screw things up bad. Those motors are garbage no matter what kind, just make sure the actuator itself follows the same line as the rod and you should be fine!

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for the input

I was going to mess around with it more this weekend. Maybe see if I can mount it closer to the door mechanism than the inner lock. Though the spot it's at now was both the easiest mounting point and it seemed like it was closest to being parallel to the lock rod. There is some play where the actuator rod connects to the actuator. The ring end of the actuator seems to have enough slack to turn some over time. That might be what causes the extra strain on the system and snapped the first spring.

For now I've got it disconnected. One thing I'm considering is trying to find a JDM passenger door actuator, which would then be a USDM driver side. Giving me an OEM option for remote door locks.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

You might want to rethink locking your doors at all. Alarm yes, lock, no.

When you lock any convertible, you invite thieves and mischief makers to cut your top. When you leave your doors unlocked, you are very unlikely to get a cut top.

I never leave ANYTHING in my Vert that someone wants to steal and I never lock it. Wanna get inside and check it out? Go ahead; You won't need to break a window, slide-hammer the lock, pop the handle with a pry-bar, cut the top or anything else to find the OEM radio and an empty glove box. I do lock the trunk and disable the inside trunk release. I even leave the windows open if I go to a movie and park it out in the parking lot. Been doing it this way in the DFW metro area for nearly 4 years now.

FWIW, this gets more important with a brand new top...

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

HA!! That sounds a little extreme friend. I've got a decent stereo in my vert, 3 amps, 7 speakers and a headunit..soon to be adding an in-dash crossover. BUT I do keep everything as stealth as possible. The only thing that really is out in the open is my tweeters mounted in pods on the door panels beside the mirror triangle molding..and of course the headunit.

You never know what a thief is gonna try. I'd like to think someone would bust my window to get my stuff rather than cut my top. And I've got spare windows for both doors in storage...just in case. Hell, before I replace my top I think I'd prefer they cut the top so I can collect some vandalism insurance money

I live in a pretty safe town in southern indiana, crime is pretty low. One plus I have is that thru my work I've gotten to know some of the local PD officers. Some of them talk cars with me and both know my car and where I live. When driving I get waves from some of them as we pass by each other. I'd like to think that I've got a little extra security in that they'd recognize someone else joyriding in my car or messing with it. But all things are possible under the sun.....

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Looking over my pics again, I'm wondering if it wouldn't be better to mount the actuator parallel further back on the lock rod. The lock rod angles just where I have the actuator mounted. I wonder if finding a spot further back on the lock rod and after that bend would be better?

Also, looking at the current mounting point. The actual actuator isn't parallel to where it is attached to the lock rod. The actuator rod is parallel...but not the actuator itself.

One last thing, I believe the passenger side (USDM) OEM actuator is mounted back by the door lock mechanism and it might be mounted horizontally rather than vertically, like I have my DEI actuator. I believe the OEM actuator then uses force on the door handle lock rod rather than the inner lock mechanism.

Hell to be honest it might not be worth the labor to make this remote door lock work properly.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

I don't know if I would be giving a shopping list and a city location to any punk/****/thief tolling these forums.

FWIW, I have component speakers w/aftermarket tweeters in my door panels and upgraded speakers in the headrests. Tweets are mounted flush and painted to match the interior.

Someday, I might share the write up for replacing those headrest speakers with you I never posted it.

Everything so far is very, very low key and definitely not attractive to steal in my Vert.

Sure you do-the first thing they try is the door handle. If that works, the damage is minimized from that point on.

Thief would rather pop your handle than bust the glass. if you have tint, he would rather break the glass, because he can 'pop' the glass to reach in while the tint holds the glass in place. He generally wants to NOT sit in broken glass while stealing your stuff.

Its best to not have to deal with the insurance at all, but wait, did you say you have comprehensive and full coverage insurance on a 20 year old car?????


M'kay, now you do know that a pocketknife is considered the universal pass key for all convertibles? It is also silent and has the effect of not setting of impact sensors like breaking glass will do.

The more you 'armor' that vert, the more likely it gets targeted and cut.

Jedsterama

I mounted mine in the opposite direction and behind the door panel.

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...ma/linkage.jpg

Only a few degrees of change from the actuator to the linkage connector.
Used the stock holes in the door though I did have to slightly drill the slotted mounting strip to use 10mm bolts.

Found these actuators on E-bay for around $20. for a set of 4. Only using 1.
Works swell.