i Have done alot of searching about where to put a coolent temp sender. Almost everyone says to drill and tap the WP. i did see one person who put it into another place which was the Coolent drain plug location for the block. I believe that it was JRat that did it but im not sure.

Has anyone else done this? it sure is a hell of a lot easier than removing the Wp to drill and Tap it?

opinions?

 

i remember seeing a hose that already had a place to put a aftermarket water tem sensor on it. i don't know where to get it though.

 

Stock location.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=1#post3351768

 

go buy a "t" for copper plumbing and use it. just cut the hose on the back of the water pump, put the "T" in there with a couple of hose clamps and epoxy your sensor into the "T".

 

The place that my sender is located is on the driver's side of the engine. It is located between a couple of the studs that hold the A/C compressor. You just need to remove the allen head screw that is in there and install your sender.

If memory serves me correctly, it is the exact threading as the Autometer sender adapter.

Hope this helps.

 

Not a accurate place to get a reading. Been there, done that. The flow is FROM the rear housing to the throttle body to the bac to the rear of the water pump. A good deal of temperature is lost there. I compared using two gauges of the same make at the same time. One in a pipe b/t the waterpump and the radiator, the other in a tee b/t the bac and the waterpump. Over ten degrees difference.

I've been considering the *block* drain. Just considering.

 

Well that's an accident waiting to happen. There are at least 4 failure points I can pick out in that arrangement.

What's wrong with just drilling and tapping the water pump housing? You don't have to remove it. Just pull the alternator and surrounding components.

You can also T into the stock sendor location.

I don't recommend putting any temp gauge AFTER the thermostat. If the thermostat fails, you won't get a temp reading.

 

well i think im going to do it ill let you know how it goes

cake- the reason i was avoiding the WP idea is that if i drill and tap it with it still in teh car ill get metal shavings into the cooling system and with my luck ill somehow manage to get them to clog up some passages in teh rad.

also without taking off the pump i wont be certain of a good place to put the sender
IE that will be deep enough that the sender wont hit the metal behind the pump and also so that it wont interfer with the actual pumping of the coolent through the system

and for the rest of ya i wont do the brass T connecter idea because first off the sensor will not be in the direct flow of the coolent so the reading would be off for that reason also for the reasons that Hailers mentiond

thanks for the input guys

 

Anyone know the size of the allen bolt in the block? I tried taking it out, but I seem to not have a correct size allen wrench..

 

I am not very popular tonight at all. You'll all like my ideas or else!!!! or else!!!! I am taking my ball and going home.


Good that you guys correct me. I was thinking that the water flow was going from the water pump to the BAC then to the Throttle body. In which case a T would work there. Mine was based on just an idea but thanks to this forum the best way to mod is out in the open.

 

I used the hex key drain plug location (front iron) as well. Works just fine and you get to keep the stock gauge to go along with it.

 

Hmm, I wonder what the temp difference is between the front iron and the back (stock) location, considering that by the time the stock sender senses the temp, it's already passed the two rotor housings on the combustion sides, and the front iron location wouldn't have had any rotor housing "input" on the temp...

That's a good problem for you to tinker with, Hailers

 

So it goes in from the bottom hose, into the motor via the water pump, Some of it (coolant) comes out that side port (below the oil filter) goes into the heater core, then out the other side of the heater and into the bottom hose (is it considered "cooled off" when it goes through the heater core??) Some comes out of the back iron and into the Throttle body, then the BAC and then into the Water pump?? Does it go into the motor or into the top hose then radiator?? So is that the temp sensor right under the oil Filter?? If so why would this not be the best place for an after market sensor?

 

Using the heater line is ok IF you leave the heater to full hot all year long. I put a tee into the heater hose prior to the core and it does not work unless the heater is to full open all the time.

I put a tee into the line b/t the bac connection and the back of the water pump and compared it with another same type gauge in the water pump hose b/t the waterpump and the radiator. The one in the bac line was cooler than I would have thought. So I suppose it gets cooled by the throttle body more than you'd think.

I'm thinking about putting one in the block water drain.

In the meantime the water temp gauge is connected to a sensor I put in the pan where the old SubZero sensor went and the other in a home made block I put b/t the oil filter and the pedestal (RB copy cat, homemade out of a block of aluminum using drill bits and taps). Measures oil temp in the pan vs the oil cooler outlet temp.

The water temp sensor below the oil filter pedestal?? You'd have to find a aftermarket sensor that would fit into that hole......or drill and tap a larger hole for the aftermarket sensor. I sorta hate to lose the stock gauge all together.

 

do you remmeber what sized key you need to get the plug out?

 

My Wolf EMS sensor was in the spot on the rear housing where the stock water temp gauge sender used to be. The sensor for my aftermarket temp gauge was in the thermostat housing.

The EMS used to read about 15F cooler than my gauge.

 

ok for anyone else that wants to put thier aftermarket sender in the drain plug location the thread is not an NPT thread and it is not near big enough to use any kind of adapter.

the hole was actually just the right size for the sender but was the wrong thread so i just re taped it to 1/8 NPT seems to be fine so far

note: this is for an autometer sender im not sure if other brand senders will be different sizes

 

The autometer coolant temp gauge I bought wroked perfectly. The sender came with an adapter that was larger, and that fit/threaded into the hex key drain with absolutely no problem at all. Did not have to buy any other adapter or anything.

 

oh my bad i put mine in the actual drain for the block

over near the motor mount

 

Yah people always misunderstand, no worries. That's why I try to make it clear I'm talking about the one with a hex key head located on the FRONT iron.

 

im sure that mine will work fine, glad that its cleared up cause i ws begining to think you where crazy