After emissions delete, no idle. Rx7 fc turbo 2 s4
Alright so I just took out all of the emissions crap including the rats nest on my 87 turbo ii. Before I did this I turned the variable idle resistor a little to hard and the screw now just spins freely. My engine wants to start so badly but after cranking and de flooding and cranking some more it will only idle for about 15-20 seconds. I need suggestions and help on this one. Not sure if I still need to use some of the solenoids from the emissions delete. Or If I have a major vacuum leak or if It's the VR that I broke. If it is the VR I cannot find one anywhere to buy. I also attempted to set the tps correctly at 1oms at closed throttle. Thx for the help
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By name, which solenoids did you remove?
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You got the exact result you should have gotten by removing everything. When you pull that stuff out, you do more than just get rid of emissions cleaning items. Cars are never as smooth after removing it all. They can be adjusted to be ok though.
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I just removed everything associated with the rats nest
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Originally Posted by nbjeff
(Post 11759872)
I just removed everything associated with the rats nest
Not good enough. What are their names????????????????? Did you remove the BAC? You see the BAC is not an emissions solenoid, so this is why the question was asked. Whatever you removed has a name so please provide us w/that info. |
What, "emissions crap" isn't specific enough for you guys?
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Originally Posted by clokker
(Post 11759941)
What, "emissions crap" isn't specific enough for you guys?
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Okay here's what I have removed:
Both cats- 3" straightpipe Bac Split air pipe Acv Air pump Egr valve Air relief silencer Pcv system Fuel pressure regulator- but I connected the end of the primary fuel rail to a vaccum nipple above the injectors Did the throttle body mod Thermowax removed All cold start assists That's all I can think of right now Btw please keep this helpful, rather than fighting and such. Thx |
When it idles, at what speed does it idle?
You need the BAC. It is supposed to prevent the idle from dropping below 750 rpm, especially when load is placed on the engine when idling. It also aids the car in starting as it helps to add more air to the engine under this situation. The FPR is necessary. It adjusts the fuel pressure during hot starts, plus of course it would help to regulate the pressure in other scenarios. |
A monster port should fix it all.
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It idles around maybe like 200rpm. Then it dies... Alright I'll put the bac back on. Do I need to put the coolant lines back through it? I've heard that it's not necessary. And how would I go about putting the fpr back together?
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Is the fpr attached to the fuel rail? If so I didn't remove it. I just re-routed the vaccum line for it
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I just checked out my primary fuel line pulsation damper and it needs replacing. And I need to make sure I'm running my fuel lines right
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And the Pressure Regulator Control Valve (PRCV) is the item in which controls the fuel pressure during hot starts and alters the pressure under different scenarios.
And you don't need the coolant lines to the BAC. |
Originally Posted by nbjeff
(Post 11760081)
Okay here's what I have removed:
Both cats- 3" straightpipe Bac Split air pipe Acv Air pump Egr valve Air relief silencer Pcv system Fuel pressure regulator- but I connected the end of the primary fuel rail to a vaccum nipple above the injectors Did the throttle body mod Thermowax removed All cold start assists That's all I can think of right now Btw please keep this helpful, rather than fighting and such. Thx At the very least, put the BAC back on and use its bypass screw to allow enough air to idle. Alternatively, you can tighten up the throttle cable. You'll probably be stuck with a high idle. |
New injectors
New clips Bac reinstalled Tps set to 1k ohms via throttle cable It will idle 2 out of 10 times with me doing some amount of gas fluctuations to 2k rpm then decided to die again... Seriously I'm at a loss and I've been at this for days |
How did the engine run before the emission removal? And you can adjust the idle via the BAC. And you can measure the voltage of the variable resistor by probing the Green/Black wire and it should read between 1 to 4 volts when adjusted (and it should only be adjusted w/the engine fully warmed up and the initial coupler jumpered..
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At one point it was running good. Then it started acting up. Aftermarket blowoff valve
Pod filter Exhaust Some tuning and it was all running fine But then my battery died after it sitting for a week and it hasn't been the same ever since My car would run but I had to keep my foot on the throttle and brake at the same time while driving to attempt to keep my car alive. Tried the usual things Bac adjusting Variable resistor adjusting And it just wouldn't hold an idle It has 118k miles on it About 75lb compression all around I know she's an old girl but I don't feel like she gave out. |
So there's lots of gas smelling oil dripping from my exhaust. Just an update
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You've got a draw/charging system issue. A battery should not die in a week.
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That's true but that wouldn't explain why it won't start
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If the power isn't going where it needs to it sure would
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Originally Posted by nbjeff
(Post 11761064)
Tps set to 1k ohms via throttle cable
Originally Posted by nbjeff
(Post 11761107)
. Aftermarket blowoff valve.
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The bac vacuum line is currently being blocked off because I don't know where it goes.
Also today I got my car to run for about a minute and a half. After messing with a few things and reinstalling the twin scroll turbo actuator and solenoid. It got to around 2500rpm and I had to hold it there with my foot on the gas. It shook crazy hard and tons of white smoke was coming out. It also sounded really weird but also ATF fluid was coming out because of the de flooding procedure I had done a couple of days ago. At this point I don't know where to go. I readjusted the tps via it's adjusting screw. While giving the throttle cable a bit of slack. More than it had previously anyway. The tps ohms always change though and it's not very consistent. I'm thinking it's a combination between the variable resistor that's not even installed (I checked the voltage on it and it was dead) and my tps might need to be replaced |
You stated you reinstalled the BAC. It also doesn't have a vacuum hose as the hose is an air supply hose coming from the air intake tube that runs from the air box to the throttle body.
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So should I run a hose from the bac to the tube connecting the back of the MAF to the turbo?
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I don't have a turbo but if you look in the FSM you'll get the idea. The large tube coming off of the AFM runs to the throttle body. Somewhere along the way there is a plastic elbow which is found at the bottom of the intake tube. A rubber hose should be connected to this elbow. This is what feeds the BAC. If you use the advanced search feature and look for turbo BAC pictures you'll see how it connects.
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Okay at one point I believe that the bac was connected to the charge pipe that was on my car before I put an aftermarket bov on. I'm pretty sure that's where it went. I will try making a connection somewhere in there
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So. Bac connected to intake. New variable resistor that I found off of a junkyard fc. And it's not starting or idleing or anything still
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Defllood the engine. Also prove that you have spark, fuel and no vacuum leaks. And about putting the prcv back on.
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New plugs after you get it un-flooded.
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Alright so I got it running but in order to keep it alive I had to floor the gas pedal. And I was only around 2k rpm. Again tons and tons of smoke and oil was coming out. Left it doing this for about two minutes until my shop completely filled with white smoke and I just about suffocated. I figure that if I just run it like that. That eventually all of the crap or whatever is in the engine will eventually work it's way out. Am I right? It almost started to idle but it died shortly after. Then I couldn't get it to start again all night. Any suggestions now?
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Check for vacuum leaks and check the AFM.
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I've checked for vaccum leaks. I've checked the afm. And absolutely nothing is working at all now. My car just sounds like it's giving up
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got a buddy with a known working AFM? and other parts? start swapping working stuff and see where your issue is
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Pulled my spark plugs and I am beyond flooded! Fuel was sitting on my plugs.. And no I have buds with fd rx7's but no fc's
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And now a ton of fuel with what looked like oil dumped out of my car... Great. Any ideas on what that's from? I'm going to tear the intake off again and see if a fuel line blew or something
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leaky injectors
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I just bought ones off of ebay that we're flow tested and I pulled off my intake and there is no fuel under it. So it all came out my spark plug holes when I was attempting to deflood it. But then why would their be oil in my fuel? Ugh this car
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I've spent the entire day unflooding and attempting to start. Searching for vacuum leaks. Poring ATF and marvel mystery oil into my housings via the line above my bac (seperates it 50%/50%) and with all of this being done nothing is working... Nothing at all....
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Have you tried deflood then starting with only ether no fuel? And do you still have the omp?
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I do still have the omp and I didn't understand what you were saying with starting it with fuel..
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A spark plug covered in fuel or fuel and oil is a fouled plug so you'll have a rather hard time starting the car. When you deflooded the engine did you immobilze the fuel pump? You can try starting the car by using a second or two at the most of starting fluid sprayed into the air intake cowl after the pump has been deactivated. If the car starts up briefly then dies you might try the spray one more time before activating the fuel pump and trying to start the engine once again.
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When I de flooded the engine. I pulled both the egi fuses, I also tried pulling the yellow plug underneath the pod filter, and eventually taking out the spark plugs and cranking it until all if not most of the fuel vapor was expelled. The egi fuses were pulled durring all of these events
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so with that fuse still out, put your plugs back in and have a buddy spray starting fluid while you crank.
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Alright. I'll try it tomorrow. Just on the air filter right?
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Originally Posted by nbjeff
(Post 11764612)
Alright. I'll try it tomorrow. Just on the air filter right?
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
(Post 11761418)
this is gong to cause trouble, the ECU will be confused when it blows off, you should remove, and put the stock one back. |
Originally Posted by welfare
(Post 11765447)
so that's where those fireballs have been coming from!
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you got new injectors are they the right impedance? 87 had some high and some low impedance
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