So new update. I can get it to start running for approx. 6 seconds. But then even while holding the throttle down it will die down and die.... Going to check for leaky injectors but idk

I was pretty sure I got the correct injectors. I got the low impedance because that's what my car needs... I think. I don't remember since I looked at it last

You sure AFM is good?

Pretty sure

How did the starter fluid work?

Literally didn't do a thing

haha fuck yea! long as they don't reach my turbo :(

better make sure about this. ohm those injectors. you don't need to pull the uim off either. you can do it at the pcm connector where the pins are much easier to access. use a pcm pin out. if you're running low impedance without a box, you WILL fry drivers

nm, s4 is low impedance. as long as you have the box! or if they're high impedance, no box. but it wouldn't run at all on high impedance with a box anyways i don't think

Yeah they have the correct brown clips and the fit snug into my new harness patch. So there correct

i think my next move would be to unplug the circuit opening relay, fuel pump or what ever is easiest to disable the fuel pump.

then crank it, if it is flooded, it will start, run for ~10 seconds and die. if it isn't flooded it'll just crank.

i like to use the circuit opening relay, as its within reach of the driver, and you can start it, and then plug it back in from the driver seat.

So I unplugged the fuel pump and it's just cranking... Does that mean it's not flooded? I just went through the entire bay and checked every single vaccum like on the car. And I got rid of a few leaks but now I have absolutely no running car. It just cranks... And cranks.... And makes me want to hit it with a sledge hammer

was the fuel pump still unplugged after fixing the leaks? gotta ask these questions...

Yeah. There was a couple little spurts of it wanting to run but then I just kept cranking

so youre saying the fuel pump was NOT plugged in? and it wont start?...

When the fuel pump was unplugged it would not start. Then later after trying with it not plugged in for a while I plugged it back in and it still wouldn't start..

Either you are not getting sufficient spark or fuel or both and the compression might be lackluster. You could try the starter fluid trick or then again you couldn't but it depends if you want some insight into what's contributing to your no start problem and perhaps you don't want to rule out certain things.

Okay where do you want me to spray starter fluid?

hmm, if you unplug the fuel pump, then there will be no fuel, so if it was flooded it will start. but if it was not flooded, then there is a different problem.

do you have spark? you can put a timing light on it and crank it, we don't care if the timing is correct, we just wanna see the light flashing. no flash = no spark = no run.

Did you not already ask this question? Was the question not answered?

a timng light would still flash with a fouled plug tho. something to keep in mind...

Okay so I feel like my spark plugs are fouled. So if I get new ones. What would be a good idea when I'm trying to start it. Like since it's probably flooded is there a way that I should try to start it so that I don't foul my new spark plugs?

I can approve this unfortunately.

I would get an inline spark tester or anything related instead. Also since it just cranks, it definitely sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Might need to get one of those fuel pressure testers to see how many psi you got in the fuel system.

There's nothing special to do outside of a normal deflood. I used an auto shipper once upon a time (idiot decision) and they flooded it. I had to pull the plugs, which were indeed fouled, and then succeeded in deflooding it. Those new plugs didn't last very long. Ended up fouling again within 3k miles, iirc. I also have a pig rich tune though, so ymmv. However, while you're elbow deep changing out plugs, check your compression. Like the others before have said, need to identify if it's fuel, spark, or compression related. Otherwise you'll just be chasing snipes in your engine bay.

Thx

I have a solid 80-85 pounds in the back and 85-90 pounds in the front. So compression is available.

So just as a general idea. What should I do every time I start my car? Because sometimes I will crank it and it will start for a second. Maybe two and then it will go back to cranking. Should I try to catch it with the gas? Or just keep turning the key?

Is the purge control valve important?

So today I reinstalled the fpr solenoid and cleaned my spark plugs and got new 8.8 mm racing spark plug wires. Checked my ignition coils. Leading- .5ohms
Trailing- .7ohms

Tps... Ohms.. Closed around 1k ohms.
Wot-... It goes from 1k to around 2k and then it starts going back down to about .75k ohms....

So I'm pretty sure I need a new tps

Also reconnected my primary injector air bleed nipple back up to the UIM

And maybe cleaned some things up. But my car still won't start and has a very very hard time catching to sound like it wants to start...

Okay so I borrowed a tps from a friend. And his was working perfectly. I tested it out of the car and all the ohms were correct. Took mine out and put his in and now their roles have switched... His is doing what mine was doing and now mine is working fine. What the heck is going on? Is this some type of wiring issue??

There is no wiring involved when checking for ohms because when checking for ohms the TPS is unplugged. Correct?

When I check the tps it doesn't matter if it's plugged in or unplugged. It still goes back down in ohms

Was the car fully warmed up before you unplugged the sensor?

That doesn't make any sense. You said you tested it outside of the car. And then tested it unplugged in your car, should have gotten the same readings... I'm guessing you didn't test it unplugged and just don't want to admit it.

And when testing for ohms, the meter prongs have to make solid contact w/the pins in the plug or you won't get an accurate reading.

Okay so whatever I did yesterday. What you guys are saying is correct. I had it plugged in. I'm not making excuses but I'm blond haha. Anyway yeah so I was testing it with it plugged in still. and I can't warm up my engine because it's obviously not running. So sorry for all the confusing posts

A TPS is not required to start the car. Just unplug the AFM and jumper the fuel check connector. If you do not know the location of this then use the advanced search function and find the info. If by chance the car starts then do not run it too long because w/o the AFM the engine will run very rich and likely cause the exhaust components to glow. And what happened w/the starter fluid? If you refuse to take advice given then don't ask for it.

I'm not refusing to take your advice? But the starter fluid did not start my engine or give it any hope of wanting to run. So after I jumper it and unplug the air flow meter. Then try to start my car?

Why didn't you state in the past that you actually tried to start the car by using the fluid? Anyway, if the car did not start at least for a brief period of time when using starter fluid then that points to an ignition problem as it relates to spark so test for spark. If you had spark and at least decent compression the car should have fired up. And again, when using the fluid you need to make sure the fuel pump is disabled.

So I have stated that I tried the starting fluid before and that it did not work. But just
An update I put everything back together and cleaned the plugs. Started car for 25 seconds or
So and then checked the plugs. They were fouled with both mmo and gas. Then I cleaned the plugs and tried again. Started for about 2 minutes and the whole time I had to floor the gas to the floor and the revved to about 3krpm and then it slowly died down to dieing. Checked the plugs. They had a slight amount of oil on them. Cleaned them. And I'm still trying to get this running. Btw the way we got it started in the first place. Was by my grandpa putting a little bit of gas into the 'vacuum' line right above the bac valve. I say 'vacuum' because my grandpa said that sometime it will be vacuum and sometimes there
Will be pressure. Not sure what
To think about that.

Could be fuel issue as in your primary injectors. Could be they are clogged or poorly connected. You could remove the wires from the ECU pins for the primary injectors and do the same thing for the secondary injectors and then place the secondary injector wires into the pin position for the primary injectors so instead of the car trying to run off the primary injectors the car would run off the secondary injectors in place of the primaries.

And double/triple check that you have the plug wires from the coils running to the correct plug positions.

Is there any diagram that shows where the wires for each injector go? I feel like I got them in the same position but maybe I didn't. That would explain some things

What do you mean by same position?

Front primary is pin 3E Light Green wire
front secondary is pin 3H Light Green/White wire
rear primary is pin 3C Light Green/Black wire
rear secondary is pin 3F Light Green/Red wire

Like the front/rear position.

But I will check their spot tomorrow when I go back over to the car. And by front you mean front rotor right?

Yes.

But you may be confusing the injectors and the plugs. You are also being asked to make sure the lead coils are going to both of the lower plug positions (one at the front rotor and one at the rear rotor) as well as the trailing coil plugs which are connected to the top spark plugs. T1 goes to the top front rotor and T2 goes to the top rear rotor plug.

It runs like a freaking champ!!!!

So, what did you fix?

The injectors were I'm the wrong position. I think one primary was on a secondary and visa/versa

Thanks so much to everyone who helped me