Don't fret, breh. Sometimes people get confused with what's in the FSM, and would rather have things in terms they understand a little better, or explained by someone they know is knowledgeable on the subject.

Not everyone knows everything about cars, which is why they ask. Although I do agree with you to an extent...

 

Hence the 97% searching.

 

And to the original poster. At one point I was having problems with my idle on my 7, and did these tests to the AFM I sent you. It checked out at the time. Hopefully nothing has changed since.

 

every single post you have done in the last 20 mins has been nothing but jokes and ******* ignorant remarks....no one cares what the hell you think if you are gonna bash them....read the damn topic and search for your self to see if you can find something on that topic

if you are trying to opt your post its not working bro...go to the lounge with that ****

 

Well checked out the resistance on both afm, and they seem to be around the same numbers. I guess I will try unflooding the car next. Man this really sucks!!!!

 

Thnx to the peaople that are helping!!! I must admit I am a noob!!! and forgive me for my inexperience!!!

 

good luck bro ...just keep on try thats the nature of our cars ...in time you will see a lot of ******** on the forum that dont know **** and go by "he said they said" just to get post up

anyways the best bet is to buy a used one here and just junk the old...good luck and keep em rotating

alex

 

Well at least you've ruled out the MAF Sensor!! Good luck.

 

The one he bought from here was from me. It sounds like a fuel delivery problem of some sort, IMO, from what I've read so far.

 

O.k so I checked the fuel pump to see if it made the "whirring" sound by bridging the terminals of the check connector with a jumper wire. And the whirring sound continued for a long time, meaning that the system is not pressurizing enoungh. So the next step would be checking the fuel pressure. But i found it a strange that when i took off the fuel feed hose there was no fuel what so ever..................

 

When the car is cranking shouldnt there be fuel flowing threw the fuel feed hose?

 

The fuel lines should be pressurized when cranking.

 

Yes. If there's no fuel pressure, check for a leak and go over the lines and hoses, filter, etc.

 

do you know where the fuel pump relay is? when key is on the fuel pump is not on, i fuel pump only works when i put the jumper wire.

 

IIRC the pump runs when cranking.

 

Pull the fuel line off the fuel filter. The aft line of the fuel filter. See if fuel drains out. It should for a few moments.

Put a hose on that line and the other end in a bucket. Jumper the fuel pump check connector and turn the key ON. See if fuel flows or not. Fuel flows? Then change the fuel filter, refit the lines to the filter and then remove the feed line from the filter at the engine. Jumper the fuel check connector and turn the key to ON for maybe two seconds. Fuel should flow.

Just FYI. In the past I've depressurized the fuel lines and then turned the pump on. The fuel rail gets fully pressurized in less than three-four seconds. No sense running the pump longer than that.

Also, it could be the fuel strainer on the END of the FUEL PUMP is clogged or VARNISHED over. Check it out.

 

Ya i can get fuel flow, but only when I jumper fuel check connector. My problem is when the key is on "ON" position the fuel pump doesn't turn on.

 

I see somebody is stalking me...

I guess you missed my post in this thread where I responded to his question about how to test the AFM. Far more useful than anything you've "contributed" thus far in the thread.

You mean kinda like what you're doing to me now? Interesting...

Can I get that in English? No clue what the hell you're talking about.

Anyways, think what you will. I've helped a lot of people. God forbid I make a random post (albeit true...) once in a while.

Now... to help some more.

Yes, the car should start with the AFM disconnected. While starting, the car uses the "Start Fuel Map" in the ECU. Once started, it switches to the AFM. So, technically, it should start then die shortly thereafter.

Go to advanced search, type in Hailers for the user, and "Start Fuel Map" under the terms.

 

Sounds like you are a little confused. As far as I understand the fuel will not flow with the key in the 'on' position (unless you do the jumper). The fuel will flow while cranking regardless. If the AFM is disconnected, it can start, but it won't stay running for long. Air needs to flow through the filter box to open the AFM and if the tubing isn't connected to the engine while you troubleshoot, then you need to temporarily jam it open.

 

Like the man said above, the pump will NOT run with the key to ON.

The jumper must be installed in the fuel pump check connector and the key to ON.

Or the key HELD to START.

OR the key to ON and the engine running.

The engine will start without the afm connected, but only briefly, IF fuel is available in the rails.

See the following jpg, it might be of interest. I'm not saying it will fix your problem, but it's sometning you should be aware of: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...hmentid=150448

Frankly, I don't see where MYBABY wrote anything wrong and he isn't the type to pump up thread counts.

It seemed earlier on that you had caught on to the fact that with the key to ON, that the pump would not work. Guess I was wrong about that.

I'd still try the things I mentioned in my last post above this one. It can't hurt.

DON'T EVER BE A PARTS SWAPPER. Cost too much.

 

Will do!