I'm finishing up a V-mount conversion on my 88TII. I wired in a Walbro 255 that didn't start working until I pushed the flapper door on the AFM open. To compound the issue, the starter wouldn't even turn over. here is a list of modifications so as to help identify the issue.

- T66 & custom manifold
- V-Mount with electric fan
- electric fan controller
- rats nest removal
- front bumper relay removal
- 950 primes 1100 sec injectors
- FJO Injector driver (turn-on for unit is the coil pack)

I haven't touched any of the relays underneath the dash and fuses seem to be fine. Fuel relay was tested and seemed fine. I searched and found a thread touching on this but it only dealt with the N/A harness. If anyone has any ideas, I'd appreciate your help.

 

Yes

 

YES! LOL, Well OK. My question then is why is the fuel pump on coming on only when I hit that flapper door. Doesn't it come on when the key is in the "on" position?

 

It won't come on in the 'ON' position, unless the door is propped open or the yellow fuel pump test connector is jumped.

 

The fuel pump is controlled by the Circuit Opening Relay.

The Circuit Opening Relay has TWO coils that can make the pump come on.

One coil is energized by HOLDING the key to START ( start circuit puts pwr on one of the circuit opening relays coils).

The other coil is energized when the vane in the afm is moved aft (makes a micro switch that puts a gnd on the circuit opening relays coil), or if the fuel pump check connector is jumpered (puts a gnd on the same coil I just mentioned).

The first coil mentioned is to get the pump to work when you try to start the car. The second coil keeps the pump running IF the engine actually starts (keeps the vane in the afm moved aft to make the micro switch).

See you local FSM wiring diagrams to see the two coils.

There must be a open circuit to the starter as for why the starter won't turn over. When you HELD the key to START, you should have heard the fuel pump run. If not, then you have a open circuit from the key to the starter solenoid. See your local FSM wiring diagrams as to why.

 

FSM link (see sig. below).

 

Hey Mike I called you last week to see if you need help. Give me a call if you still having trouble.
Later Rob

 

Thanks guys. Great explanation, Hailers. There was a bit of a misunderstanding as to the "turn on" procedure for the pump. The starter was sticking, so I took a mallet to it and that seemed to solve my issue. Problems solved.

 

Smacking the starter to get it to work indicates one or more worn brushes inside the starter. Been there, done that myself.

 

you are trying to run a t-66 on the stock ecu?

 

LOL, no, 87 t-66. I have an RTek 2.1. I've paired that up with the FJO injector driver so as to sure up my PWM at idle as the 2.1 only has pre-sets up to 720/720. The 2.1 is capable of rich/lean +-37.5%.